June 9 Bayeux - D-Day Beaches - Bayeux 35 kms
First stop was at a small Commonwealth Cemetery with only 1000 graves - 650 Commonwealth and 350 German. So many young lives lost. Towards the end of the war the Germans were recruiting 16 year olds. All the cemeteries and war memorials are beautifully looked after and respected by the locals.
Rode on to Arromanches and saw the huge floating harbour towed over in sections from Britain to assist in the Allied landing. Something like 500,000 men, 300,000 vehicles, 3 million tons of supplies landed here over a few days.
On the way back to Bayeux we had a look at some cliff-top batteries at Le Chaos.
We had intended to do the full D-Day Beaches tour, but were so emotionally affected by the little we had seen that we felt that we could not cope with the huge American cemetery at Omaha Beach.
Back in town, we did our washing, had dinner and an early night in preparation for hitting the road once more.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
June 8 Bayeux
Phoned the children, to check on their well-being and then to see an exhibition of Bayeux porcelain at the Musee Baron Gerard, and to inspect a modern tapestry done by 243 people in Zeeland, a province of the Netherlands. Titled 'Made by Us', the tapestry is 126 metres long and 45 cm high. Underneath each panel there is an explanation of why the artist selected their particular embroidered images. Also visited the cathedral, parts of which are 1000 years old. Splendid stained glass and carved images.
Shared conversation at dinner with a couple from Mt Martha! A relief to be able to relax and talk English - although I must admit that I am enjoying the challenge of communicating in French, which is becoming slightly easier.
Phoned the children, to check on their well-being and then to see an exhibition of Bayeux porcelain at the Musee Baron Gerard, and to inspect a modern tapestry done by 243 people in Zeeland, a province of the Netherlands. Titled 'Made by Us', the tapestry is 126 metres long and 45 cm high. Underneath each panel there is an explanation of why the artist selected their particular embroidered images. Also visited the cathedral, parts of which are 1000 years old. Splendid stained glass and carved images.
Shared conversation at dinner with a couple from Mt Martha! A relief to be able to relax and talk English - although I must admit that I am enjoying the challenge of communicating in French, which is becoming slightly easier.
June 7 Bayeux
Breakfast was enjoyable when we retrieved Sue's bag from the dining room - safely put away by the staff.
Yesterday was D-Day memorial, so there were many celebrations taking place. We went to the Musee Memorial de la Bataille de Normandie, on the way inspecting the WWII camp set up with army tents, motor bikes, trucks, jeeps, tanks, staffed by people in WWII uniforms. The Museum contained an incredible record of the battles which raged for such a short period of time - 10,000 allies killed in 11 days of fighting. Still photos and a movie of film taken during the fighting was extremely graphic and disturbing. The destruction wreaked by both the Allies and the Germans was unbelievable. Ancient buildings, treasures, paintings, houses all destroyed. Emotionally drained, we walked across the road to the British Military Cemetery, with hundreds of white gravestones the same size, with different emblems and epitaphs - many for unknown servicemen.
After lunch we had a look at the Bayeux Tapestry - 70 metres long, graphically describing the war between Harold and William the Conqueror - and almost 1000 years old.
Breakfast was enjoyable when we retrieved Sue's bag from the dining room - safely put away by the staff.
Yesterday was D-Day memorial, so there were many celebrations taking place. We went to the Musee Memorial de la Bataille de Normandie, on the way inspecting the WWII camp set up with army tents, motor bikes, trucks, jeeps, tanks, staffed by people in WWII uniforms. The Museum contained an incredible record of the battles which raged for such a short period of time - 10,000 allies killed in 11 days of fighting. Still photos and a movie of film taken during the fighting was extremely graphic and disturbing. The destruction wreaked by both the Allies and the Germans was unbelievable. Ancient buildings, treasures, paintings, houses all destroyed. Emotionally drained, we walked across the road to the British Military Cemetery, with hundreds of white gravestones the same size, with different emblems and epitaphs - many for unknown servicemen.
After lunch we had a look at the Bayeux Tapestry - 70 metres long, graphically describing the war between Harold and William the Conqueror - and almost 1000 years old.
June 6 Ifs to Bayeux 46 kms
Before heading out of town to retrace the last 5 kms of yesterday's ride, we called in at a market to buy some fruit. Yesterday's downhill had become today's first uphill - the first of many for the day. Skirted The city of Caen and kept to minor roads all the way to Bayeux. Stopped at the small village of Tourville for coffee at a bar, then bought a baguette and some pastries to eat with our bananas for lunch. Rode a few kms to another small town, Cheux, where we stopped by some old spring-fed covered sunken communal baths to have our lunch. A little further on we stopped in the village of Cristot and went into the old church. In the entrance there were two lovely carved tablets dedicated to the British soldiers who fought for the liberation of Cristot during WWII. Very moving.
Arrived in Bayeux about 3.30. Iain had booked a hotel on the phone, but we were concerned that the cost was 90€ per night, no 63€ as per the brochure. Called in to the information centre and asked them to check it out. Turned out that the only room left was a family room. Cancelled that booking and checked in to La Reine Mathilde in the centre of town.
A wonderful coffee, a walk around town, and a meal at the hotel finished off the day for us - or so we thought. Just about to get into bed when Sue missed her red shoulder bag, containing 100€. Dressed and down to the coffee shop - no luck. Back to the hotel dining room to find it locked for the night. To bed for a somewhat disturbed sleep.
Before heading out of town to retrace the last 5 kms of yesterday's ride, we called in at a market to buy some fruit. Yesterday's downhill had become today's first uphill - the first of many for the day. Skirted The city of Caen and kept to minor roads all the way to Bayeux. Stopped at the small village of Tourville for coffee at a bar, then bought a baguette and some pastries to eat with our bananas for lunch. Rode a few kms to another small town, Cheux, where we stopped by some old spring-fed covered sunken communal baths to have our lunch. A little further on we stopped in the village of Cristot and went into the old church. In the entrance there were two lovely carved tablets dedicated to the British soldiers who fought for the liberation of Cristot during WWII. Very moving.
Arrived in Bayeux about 3.30. Iain had booked a hotel on the phone, but we were concerned that the cost was 90€ per night, no 63€ as per the brochure. Called in to the information centre and asked them to check it out. Turned out that the only room left was a family room. Cancelled that booking and checked in to La Reine Mathilde in the centre of town.
A wonderful coffee, a walk around town, and a meal at the hotel finished off the day for us - or so we thought. Just about to get into bed when Sue missed her red shoulder bag, containing 100€. Dressed and down to the coffee shop - no luck. Back to the hotel dining room to find it locked for the night. To bed for a somewhat disturbed sleep.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
June 5 Beuvron-en-Auge to Ifs 51 km
Weather again fine. After our visit to the Boulangerie to buy lunch we rode an easy 7 km down the D49 and D16 and onto the busier D613 for 3 km to he town of Crevecoeur where we visited a restored medieval village which has been established by the Schlumberger family. Buildings included the gatekeeper's lodge, dovecote, Lord's residence, and chapel, the latter dating to the 12thC, the others being 15th and 16th C, as well as the farm and orchard. A sideboard in the Lord's residence was in beautiful condition and was over 400 years old.
Back on the bikes we headed off onto minor roads which were undulating to hilly. Passed many old, large, stone farm houses and buildings, varying in condition from superb to falling down.
All along the way so far the land seems rich and productive. Crops have been even and lush - wheat, barley, corn are the most common. If asked of my impression of France so far, I would say 'green' of a variety of shades. The only splashes of colour are the flower boxes in the villages.
Saw some wind turbines today.
I would have preferred to limit today's ride to around 40 km, but there were no villages with accommodation, so had to continue another 10 undulating kms to the suburb of Ifs, on the outskirts of Caen.
Couldn't find any tourist office, but I had the names of three hotels which we couldn't find. Saw some large signs to the Hotel de Ville, so set out to find this hotel. When we found it, next to the university, I was a bit puzzled when I saw that the hours were 0800 - 1730 - strange for a hotel. Went inside and joined the queue; said to the lady at the desk that I wanted a bed for the night. She looked at me and asked again what I wanted. The penny clicked and she said to me 'You are a funny man'. We were at the town hall! She gave me a map, but no help with directions. Fortunately as we were trying to work out where we were and where we wanted to go, a woman who had been behind me and heard the exchange came out and spoke to us in English, which was a great help. We eventually got the last room, on the third floor of a Formula 1 type hotel on the edge of Ifs, with no lift, so had to carry our bags and bikes up the stairs and fit us and the bikes into our tiny family room. However, the showers were hot, the room clean, the bed comfortable and we had a good meal of steak, washed down with a bottle of cider, before retiring.
Sue is getting stronger on the bike and managing to ride up most hills now, which is very satisfying for her.
Weather again fine. After our visit to the Boulangerie to buy lunch we rode an easy 7 km down the D49 and D16 and onto the busier D613 for 3 km to he town of Crevecoeur where we visited a restored medieval village which has been established by the Schlumberger family. Buildings included the gatekeeper's lodge, dovecote, Lord's residence, and chapel, the latter dating to the 12thC, the others being 15th and 16th C, as well as the farm and orchard. A sideboard in the Lord's residence was in beautiful condition and was over 400 years old.
Back on the bikes we headed off onto minor roads which were undulating to hilly. Passed many old, large, stone farm houses and buildings, varying in condition from superb to falling down.
All along the way so far the land seems rich and productive. Crops have been even and lush - wheat, barley, corn are the most common. If asked of my impression of France so far, I would say 'green' of a variety of shades. The only splashes of colour are the flower boxes in the villages.
Saw some wind turbines today.
I would have preferred to limit today's ride to around 40 km, but there were no villages with accommodation, so had to continue another 10 undulating kms to the suburb of Ifs, on the outskirts of Caen.
Couldn't find any tourist office, but I had the names of three hotels which we couldn't find. Saw some large signs to the Hotel de Ville, so set out to find this hotel. When we found it, next to the university, I was a bit puzzled when I saw that the hours were 0800 - 1730 - strange for a hotel. Went inside and joined the queue; said to the lady at the desk that I wanted a bed for the night. She looked at me and asked again what I wanted. The penny clicked and she said to me 'You are a funny man'. We were at the town hall! She gave me a map, but no help with directions. Fortunately as we were trying to work out where we were and where we wanted to go, a woman who had been behind me and heard the exchange came out and spoke to us in English, which was a great help. We eventually got the last room, on the third floor of a Formula 1 type hotel on the edge of Ifs, with no lift, so had to carry our bags and bikes up the stairs and fit us and the bikes into our tiny family room. However, the showers were hot, the room clean, the bed comfortable and we had a good meal of steak, washed down with a bottle of cider, before retiring.
Sue is getting stronger on the bike and managing to ride up most hills now, which is very satisfying for her.
Monday, July 14, 2008
June 1 St Georges de Vievre to Honfleur 54 km
After breakfast at the hotel we left at 9 am, buying bread and pastries for lunch, we headed out of town along the D137. A little uphill, then an easy ride of 18 km with little traffic to Cormeilles, quite large town with traditional Normandy houses lining the streets. The town was quite busy, with many shops open, despite it being Sunday. After a short break and half an apple each, I asked for directions. My first assistant was pushed aside by a couple who ride in the area. They advised that the route I had chosen would be too busy, and suggested that we take a more scenic route, more hilly with a short 14% climb, but very pretty. We took their advice, and soon found out that it was more steep hills than we had bargained for, including the 14% hill was quite a challenge with the loaded bikes. However road had little traffic, scenery was spectacular, with large farm houses, often behind large stone fences, with house and sheds surrounding an open courtyard. I love these places - they seem well established and organised.
Had lunch on the side of the road and then joined a more major road for the remaining 20 km into Honfleur. After a 3 km climb the road flattened out, and with a tailwind we sailed into town to look for accommodation. Chose a B&B which claimed to be 800 m from the town centre. Turned out to be more like 800 m from the edge of town. We took it as we were too tired to go back to town and start looking again. Booked in for 3 nights to have a break and a good look around this picturesque old port town. I was very pleased that I had been able to book the room on the phone in French. After a shower and a rest we walked the 2 km into town for a meal. Plenty of tourists in town.
June 2 Honfleur
Walked down to the house for a breakfast of cereal, juice, bread, toast,pastries and coffee set up by Mme Bouet in her neat-as-a-pin but sterile house. On arrival she asked us to take off our shoes before entering her house or the unit we stay in.
Carried our laundry with us into town to the laundromat - can last about 3 days between washes. Met 2 girls, American and Canadian, who gave us some washing liquid. Sue didn't notice that it was concentrated. Consequently the machine generated so many suds that they oozed out of the door of the machine. It seemed like a scene out of a movie in which we were going to be forced to evacuate because of the rising sud level.
After lunch we visited St Catherines church, rebuilt of local timber by the local shipbuilders in the !5th C after being destroyed by the British. Opposite the church is the wooden belltower, built above the bell ringer's house. Walked around the narrow streets admiring the 2/3/4 storied houses built of timber frames with mud or brick inlays. Visited the Musee of Eugene Boudin which housed some fine (Sue's assessment) pre-impressionist and some more contemporary art as well as a large collection of Normandy ethnography - headware, dress, dolls, furniture, china, & glassware.
Also called in to the Information centre and got the girls to book us a room at our next stop - Beuvron-en-Auge - which according to Lonely Planet has only a few rooms available.
Home for a rest before walking a short distance to a local hotel for a meal. Some rain today.
June 3 Honfleur
Raining today. On the way to Honfleur I lost a screw from my rear rack. Unfortunately the nearest bike shop was 15 kms away. Had intended to ride, but as it was wet I took the bus. Some consternation when I arrived at the bikeshop to find it shut on Tuesdays. Fortunately found another shop which sold motor scooters and a few bicycles and was able to get the screw needed and head back to Honfleur and met Sue at about 12.30. She had been busy visiting the Maritime Museum and the House of Ethnography which she really enjoyed. The latter was housed in a former prison, two cells with chains used to hold the prisoners on their bare-board beds, the other rooms set up as a Norman house. Wonderful examples of beaurifull pottery, glass and china, ribons, beads, toothbrushes.
Still raining. Found a lovely little cafe which served very good food and then walked back to the B&B in heavy rain, arriving with pants and shoes soaked. A hot bath fixed us up, but it took some time to dry the clothes and shoes.
Bread and banana, a couple of pastries and a glass of water comprised our evening meal, before we collapsed into bed at around 9.30 pm. This travelling business is exhausting!
June 4 Honfleur to Beuvron-en-Auge 46 km
No rain this morning and patches of blue in the sky.
Lonely Planet's 'Cycle France' describes today's ride as a 'gentle cycle along the coast and then through undulating pastoral areas of the Pays d'Auge. Sue disagrees vigorously with this description. In fact their were many 'lumps' along the coast, most of which were steep enough to knock the speed off our loaded bikes. Sue walked a few of the steeper climbs, but had the opportunity to look back over the coastline and enjoy the scenery. Weather quite sunny.
Called in to Trouville sur Mer and visited our first local market. Big market and fantastic produce. Fish, fruit, meat, cheeses, vegetables,cakes, cooked meals. Clothes stalls as well. Bought some cheese and strawberries for lunch. Had a coffee and bought pastries before heading for more hills.
As hunger was indicating the need for a lunch stop we came upon a small lake used for fishing. A charge is levied, seats are spaced around the lake and several old fishermen were arriving. There was a small kiosk and a toilet, which pleased us. (Public toilets are hard to find around France. OK for the men - they just seem to use any convenient wall or tree, regardless of whether it is the middle of town in the middle of the day. Consequently the smell of urine is quite common along the streets - as is 'doggie doos' which make it difficult to look at the towns and watch where you are walking at the same time.) Sat at a table in the shade, watched the fishermen, and enjoyed our beautiful strawberries and cheese lunch.
After lunch headed off for the last kms into the village, including the steep hill Lonely Planet did mention. Eventually arrived in 'one of the loveliest old villages in France'. It lived up to its reputation - well preserved old houses, numerous flower boxes full of colourful geraniums,lobelia and impatience. Our hotel, the Aux trois Demoiselles, was also lovely, with large oak beams and timber floor. The bathroom was slightly incongruous, being a self-contained moulded fibreglass unit including shower, handbasin and toilet.
The town boasted two michelin-starred restaurants but we lacked the attire to try their food. Went to the small creperie where Iain enjoyed a dish of tripe - very rich - while Sue had a herb and chees omelette. After dinner we wandered around the small village, admiring the houses and noting how the stream is literally at the back door of many houses and actually passed under the yard of our hotel. One house had a bridge between the house and their garden.
After breakfast at the hotel we left at 9 am, buying bread and pastries for lunch, we headed out of town along the D137. A little uphill, then an easy ride of 18 km with little traffic to Cormeilles, quite large town with traditional Normandy houses lining the streets. The town was quite busy, with many shops open, despite it being Sunday. After a short break and half an apple each, I asked for directions. My first assistant was pushed aside by a couple who ride in the area. They advised that the route I had chosen would be too busy, and suggested that we take a more scenic route, more hilly with a short 14% climb, but very pretty. We took their advice, and soon found out that it was more steep hills than we had bargained for, including the 14% hill was quite a challenge with the loaded bikes. However road had little traffic, scenery was spectacular, with large farm houses, often behind large stone fences, with house and sheds surrounding an open courtyard. I love these places - they seem well established and organised.
Had lunch on the side of the road and then joined a more major road for the remaining 20 km into Honfleur. After a 3 km climb the road flattened out, and with a tailwind we sailed into town to look for accommodation. Chose a B&B which claimed to be 800 m from the town centre. Turned out to be more like 800 m from the edge of town. We took it as we were too tired to go back to town and start looking again. Booked in for 3 nights to have a break and a good look around this picturesque old port town. I was very pleased that I had been able to book the room on the phone in French. After a shower and a rest we walked the 2 km into town for a meal. Plenty of tourists in town.
June 2 Honfleur
Walked down to the house for a breakfast of cereal, juice, bread, toast,pastries and coffee set up by Mme Bouet in her neat-as-a-pin but sterile house. On arrival she asked us to take off our shoes before entering her house or the unit we stay in.
Carried our laundry with us into town to the laundromat - can last about 3 days between washes. Met 2 girls, American and Canadian, who gave us some washing liquid. Sue didn't notice that it was concentrated. Consequently the machine generated so many suds that they oozed out of the door of the machine. It seemed like a scene out of a movie in which we were going to be forced to evacuate because of the rising sud level.
After lunch we visited St Catherines church, rebuilt of local timber by the local shipbuilders in the !5th C after being destroyed by the British. Opposite the church is the wooden belltower, built above the bell ringer's house. Walked around the narrow streets admiring the 2/3/4 storied houses built of timber frames with mud or brick inlays. Visited the Musee of Eugene Boudin which housed some fine (Sue's assessment) pre-impressionist and some more contemporary art as well as a large collection of Normandy ethnography - headware, dress, dolls, furniture, china, & glassware.
Also called in to the Information centre and got the girls to book us a room at our next stop - Beuvron-en-Auge - which according to Lonely Planet has only a few rooms available.
Home for a rest before walking a short distance to a local hotel for a meal. Some rain today.
June 3 Honfleur
Raining today. On the way to Honfleur I lost a screw from my rear rack. Unfortunately the nearest bike shop was 15 kms away. Had intended to ride, but as it was wet I took the bus. Some consternation when I arrived at the bikeshop to find it shut on Tuesdays. Fortunately found another shop which sold motor scooters and a few bicycles and was able to get the screw needed and head back to Honfleur and met Sue at about 12.30. She had been busy visiting the Maritime Museum and the House of Ethnography which she really enjoyed. The latter was housed in a former prison, two cells with chains used to hold the prisoners on their bare-board beds, the other rooms set up as a Norman house. Wonderful examples of beaurifull pottery, glass and china, ribons, beads, toothbrushes.
Still raining. Found a lovely little cafe which served very good food and then walked back to the B&B in heavy rain, arriving with pants and shoes soaked. A hot bath fixed us up, but it took some time to dry the clothes and shoes.
Bread and banana, a couple of pastries and a glass of water comprised our evening meal, before we collapsed into bed at around 9.30 pm. This travelling business is exhausting!
June 4 Honfleur to Beuvron-en-Auge 46 km
No rain this morning and patches of blue in the sky.
Lonely Planet's 'Cycle France' describes today's ride as a 'gentle cycle along the coast and then through undulating pastoral areas of the Pays d'Auge. Sue disagrees vigorously with this description. In fact their were many 'lumps' along the coast, most of which were steep enough to knock the speed off our loaded bikes. Sue walked a few of the steeper climbs, but had the opportunity to look back over the coastline and enjoy the scenery. Weather quite sunny.
Called in to Trouville sur Mer and visited our first local market. Big market and fantastic produce. Fish, fruit, meat, cheeses, vegetables,cakes, cooked meals. Clothes stalls as well. Bought some cheese and strawberries for lunch. Had a coffee and bought pastries before heading for more hills.
As hunger was indicating the need for a lunch stop we came upon a small lake used for fishing. A charge is levied, seats are spaced around the lake and several old fishermen were arriving. There was a small kiosk and a toilet, which pleased us. (Public toilets are hard to find around France. OK for the men - they just seem to use any convenient wall or tree, regardless of whether it is the middle of town in the middle of the day. Consequently the smell of urine is quite common along the streets - as is 'doggie doos' which make it difficult to look at the towns and watch where you are walking at the same time.) Sat at a table in the shade, watched the fishermen, and enjoyed our beautiful strawberries and cheese lunch.
After lunch headed off for the last kms into the village, including the steep hill Lonely Planet did mention. Eventually arrived in 'one of the loveliest old villages in France'. It lived up to its reputation - well preserved old houses, numerous flower boxes full of colourful geraniums,lobelia and impatience. Our hotel, the Aux trois Demoiselles, was also lovely, with large oak beams and timber floor. The bathroom was slightly incongruous, being a self-contained moulded fibreglass unit including shower, handbasin and toilet.
The town boasted two michelin-starred restaurants but we lacked the attire to try their food. Went to the small creperie where Iain enjoyed a dish of tripe - very rich - while Sue had a herb and chees omelette. After dinner we wandered around the small village, admiring the houses and noting how the stream is literally at the back door of many houses and actually passed under the yard of our hotel. One house had a bridge between the house and their garden.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
May 28 Last day in Paris.
Up early and on to the bike to check out the location of a bikeshop and the route to the railway station for tomorrow. Used the bikeshop's floor pump to put plenty of air into the tyres. Bikes away and onto the metro to see the Champs Elysee and the Arc de Triomphe, but didn't tackle the stairs up the Arc. Huge and impressive. After a shared sandwich it was off to the Pompidou Centre to see some modern art - Sue enjoyed this visit more than I did. Returned home exhausted for an hour or so's rest before heading out to a local Bistro recommended by our landlord. Good food very reasonably priced.
May 29 Paris to Vernon.
Another early start to pack the bikes for a 7 am start for the Gare St Lazarre. Traffic was very light at this time of day so we had an uneventful ride to the station where we packed up the bikes before boarding the train for the hour ride to Vernon. Reassembled the bikes as we could walk directly off the station onto the road. After a lengthy conversation with some locals in a bar, comprising my limited french and many handsignals, we discovered that we were on the wrong side of the railway and would have to go back to the station, down the stairs under the railway lines and up the stairs on the other side. Carrying 45 kgs of bikes and panniers down and up the stairs was not the best way to start the day. However, after this it was simple to find the hotel which we had pre-booked. After off-loading the panniers, and having a coffee which only cost €2.50, we headed off for the 5 km ride to Giverny to see Monet's Gardens.
The weather was fine, the path flat, and Monet's gardens beautiful. The water lily pond was quite large and very pretty with its Japanes-style bridges crossing it at various places. Gardens planned, but not formal - and a blaze of colour. Monet's house was very quaint and well preserved. Being a week day the crowds were manageable.
Rode back to Vernon and after booking into our room, walked around the town admiring the old houses, many of which are around 700 years old. Our hotel was also pretty olde worldy. Had dinner in the dining room - white linen table cloths and napkins, flowers, stuffed animals and birds adorning the walls, exposed beams and paintings all combined to make a very welcoming atmosphere. Food also was very good.
May 30 The ride starts in earnest.
Using the excellent Michelin 1 cm= 2 km maps we headed out of town on a fairly busy road with what seemed to be the obligatory uphill climb to start the day. After about 7 kms, including a couple of kms or more peaceful tractor path, we turned off onto a more minor D road with less traffic and the first of many many small pretty villages. Enjoyed seeing our first traditional half timbered Normandy houses, many built at the edge of rivers, sometimes over the edge of the river. The ride followed the river valley through farmland and villages. Made the mistake today of not stocking up with food, expecting to find shops in the small villages, only to find that many villages were only a collection of houses with no shops. Found the first shops about 5 kms from the end of our days ride. Enjoyed a very welcome roll and drink in park before continuing on to the town of Louviers to look for accommodation. Ended up at a more up-market and expensive hotel than we would have liked, but them's the breaks when you don't book ahead.
45 kms for the day. Planning to ride around 40 kms a day to allow us plenty of time to stop along the way and to arrive in town early enough to find accommodation and look around town.
After tidying up, we went to the Church of Notre Dame, built in the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. Some great stained glass windows. Building braced from one side to the other in several places; old statues strapped to the pillars. Also saw the Penitents Cloister built in the 17th C. Named after the Penitent Brothers who settled in Louviers after abandoning their old monastery at St Barbe. The only cloister in Europe built on water. Closed during the French Rev., was given to the Societe Populaire, became a boys school, then a prison and now a school of music!
After a good night's rest had breakfast at the hotel - too expensive; can't eat enough to make it worthwhile.
May 31 Louviers to St Georges de Vievre 52 kms
On the road just before 9 am with a steady 2 k climb out of town. A bit more traffic today even on our minor D roads. Farmland and pretty villages. Very tidy houses and gardens.
Same problem as yesterday trying to find a boulangerie (bakery) open. In the village of Tourville la Campagne we noticed the Rue de les Australiens, obviously reflecting the role of Australians during WWii. After an energising half banana, we continued on, finally arriving at Le Gros Theil, a pretty little village which had a bakery which was open. No sandwiches, so we had a cold pizza type of bread, followed by a coffee in the garden of an old, quaint hotel. Iain's french is improving and he is generally understood by the friendly locals. The toilet in this little hotel was a doozy. Behind a curtain under a stairway was a door leading down three steps to a toilet set at the height of the top step. You almost had to jump up to get onto the seat, upon which your feet swung some 30-40 cm from the floor. Spotlessly clean.
Back on the road we continued along gently undulating roads to Le Bec Hellouin - the sign claiming it to be one of France's prettiest villages. It was very pretty, with a lot of history. The only discordant note was meeting our first beggar. Heading out of town we encountered a long fairly steep hill, fortunately followed by some fairly flat road to our destination at St Georges de Vievre, where the information centre directed us to a small hotel on the town square. A locked shed for the bikes and a clean bedroom for us on the second floor.
We visited the local church, a large, high ceilinged open planned church with a painted dome ceiling - looked like a Persian pattern. Pews had doors at each end. Many of the stained glass windows depicted gruesome scenes of tortured saints. Around the town were several 'fairy story' like thatched houses.
After an enjoyable meal at the hotel and our first glass of Normandy cider, we were in bed by 9 pm.
Up early and on to the bike to check out the location of a bikeshop and the route to the railway station for tomorrow. Used the bikeshop's floor pump to put plenty of air into the tyres. Bikes away and onto the metro to see the Champs Elysee and the Arc de Triomphe, but didn't tackle the stairs up the Arc. Huge and impressive. After a shared sandwich it was off to the Pompidou Centre to see some modern art - Sue enjoyed this visit more than I did. Returned home exhausted for an hour or so's rest before heading out to a local Bistro recommended by our landlord. Good food very reasonably priced.
May 29 Paris to Vernon.
Another early start to pack the bikes for a 7 am start for the Gare St Lazarre. Traffic was very light at this time of day so we had an uneventful ride to the station where we packed up the bikes before boarding the train for the hour ride to Vernon. Reassembled the bikes as we could walk directly off the station onto the road. After a lengthy conversation with some locals in a bar, comprising my limited french and many handsignals, we discovered that we were on the wrong side of the railway and would have to go back to the station, down the stairs under the railway lines and up the stairs on the other side. Carrying 45 kgs of bikes and panniers down and up the stairs was not the best way to start the day. However, after this it was simple to find the hotel which we had pre-booked. After off-loading the panniers, and having a coffee which only cost €2.50, we headed off for the 5 km ride to Giverny to see Monet's Gardens.
The weather was fine, the path flat, and Monet's gardens beautiful. The water lily pond was quite large and very pretty with its Japanes-style bridges crossing it at various places. Gardens planned, but not formal - and a blaze of colour. Monet's house was very quaint and well preserved. Being a week day the crowds were manageable.
Rode back to Vernon and after booking into our room, walked around the town admiring the old houses, many of which are around 700 years old. Our hotel was also pretty olde worldy. Had dinner in the dining room - white linen table cloths and napkins, flowers, stuffed animals and birds adorning the walls, exposed beams and paintings all combined to make a very welcoming atmosphere. Food also was very good.
May 30 The ride starts in earnest.
Using the excellent Michelin 1 cm= 2 km maps we headed out of town on a fairly busy road with what seemed to be the obligatory uphill climb to start the day. After about 7 kms, including a couple of kms or more peaceful tractor path, we turned off onto a more minor D road with less traffic and the first of many many small pretty villages. Enjoyed seeing our first traditional half timbered Normandy houses, many built at the edge of rivers, sometimes over the edge of the river. The ride followed the river valley through farmland and villages. Made the mistake today of not stocking up with food, expecting to find shops in the small villages, only to find that many villages were only a collection of houses with no shops. Found the first shops about 5 kms from the end of our days ride. Enjoyed a very welcome roll and drink in park before continuing on to the town of Louviers to look for accommodation. Ended up at a more up-market and expensive hotel than we would have liked, but them's the breaks when you don't book ahead.
45 kms for the day. Planning to ride around 40 kms a day to allow us plenty of time to stop along the way and to arrive in town early enough to find accommodation and look around town.
After tidying up, we went to the Church of Notre Dame, built in the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. Some great stained glass windows. Building braced from one side to the other in several places; old statues strapped to the pillars. Also saw the Penitents Cloister built in the 17th C. Named after the Penitent Brothers who settled in Louviers after abandoning their old monastery at St Barbe. The only cloister in Europe built on water. Closed during the French Rev., was given to the Societe Populaire, became a boys school, then a prison and now a school of music!
After a good night's rest had breakfast at the hotel - too expensive; can't eat enough to make it worthwhile.
May 31 Louviers to St Georges de Vievre 52 kms
On the road just before 9 am with a steady 2 k climb out of town. A bit more traffic today even on our minor D roads. Farmland and pretty villages. Very tidy houses and gardens.
Same problem as yesterday trying to find a boulangerie (bakery) open. In the village of Tourville la Campagne we noticed the Rue de les Australiens, obviously reflecting the role of Australians during WWii. After an energising half banana, we continued on, finally arriving at Le Gros Theil, a pretty little village which had a bakery which was open. No sandwiches, so we had a cold pizza type of bread, followed by a coffee in the garden of an old, quaint hotel. Iain's french is improving and he is generally understood by the friendly locals. The toilet in this little hotel was a doozy. Behind a curtain under a stairway was a door leading down three steps to a toilet set at the height of the top step. You almost had to jump up to get onto the seat, upon which your feet swung some 30-40 cm from the floor. Spotlessly clean.
Back on the road we continued along gently undulating roads to Le Bec Hellouin - the sign claiming it to be one of France's prettiest villages. It was very pretty, with a lot of history. The only discordant note was meeting our first beggar. Heading out of town we encountered a long fairly steep hill, fortunately followed by some fairly flat road to our destination at St Georges de Vievre, where the information centre directed us to a small hotel on the town square. A locked shed for the bikes and a clean bedroom for us on the second floor.
We visited the local church, a large, high ceilinged open planned church with a painted dome ceiling - looked like a Persian pattern. Pews had doors at each end. Many of the stained glass windows depicted gruesome scenes of tortured saints. Around the town were several 'fairy story' like thatched houses.
After an enjoyable meal at the hotel and our first glass of Normandy cider, we were in bed by 9 pm.
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