June 16 Mont St Michel to Cancale 49 km
Soon after leaving Mont St Michel we crossed the border from Normandy into Brittany. It was a beautiful sunny day, little wind, and apart from the last 4 or 5 km, flat. We passed or were passed by a number of fishing 'ducks' - fishing boats on wheels which drove straight into the water. All with cranes to load their catch of fish or mussels. Mussel and oyster farms are evident all along this coastline.
Had to climb a few hills before dropping down into the beautiful fishing and holiday village of Cancale. Had a meal of mussels at an outdoor cafe on the bay. This is what life is all about! The street along the harbour is lined with restaurants and hotels.
Through the bikes we met a Dutch couple who spoke good English. Frieda had lived for 8 years in NZ and 3 in Australia as a child, so she had quite an interesting accent. Exchanged email addresses. They may be coming to NZ next year and will consider visiting on the way home.
We chose to stay at a B&B about 2.5 km out of town. Downside was that we had to climb the steep hill up to the township. Great B&B in a converted farm building. Hostess Fabian was very welcoming.
After a good rest, we rode the unloaded bikes back down to the harbour for dinner, which included our now regular bottle of local cider.
Friday, July 18, 2008
June 15 Mont Saint Michel
Awoke to steady rain, which looked set in for the day, so we opted to take a bus.
The Abbey, soaring skyward atop the small granite outcrop, 2 km into the bay (apart from the current above-sea-level causeway) is quite spectacular. Thought to date back to 708. It became a focus of pilgrimage. In the 10thC the Benedictines settled in the abbey while a village grew up below its walls, eventually extending to the foot of the rock. It was an impregnable stronghold. During the French Revolution the religious community was removed and it became a prison until 1863. The achievement of building this huge structure at the top of this steep rocky outcrop is awe-inspiring. The huge span of the high ceiling; the high windows; the network of worship areas and chapels; the refectory with its huge tables where the monks took their meals, the guests' hall immediately below; the monks' rooms; the enormous wheel which was used to hoist supplies up a steeply angled 'slide'.
The steep cobbled road from the bottom of the mount up to the abbey now houses hotels and shops aimed squarely at the tourist trade.
As the rain had stopped we walked home across the causeway.
Awoke to steady rain, which looked set in for the day, so we opted to take a bus.
The Abbey, soaring skyward atop the small granite outcrop, 2 km into the bay (apart from the current above-sea-level causeway) is quite spectacular. Thought to date back to 708. It became a focus of pilgrimage. In the 10thC the Benedictines settled in the abbey while a village grew up below its walls, eventually extending to the foot of the rock. It was an impregnable stronghold. During the French Revolution the religious community was removed and it became a prison until 1863. The achievement of building this huge structure at the top of this steep rocky outcrop is awe-inspiring. The huge span of the high ceiling; the high windows; the network of worship areas and chapels; the refectory with its huge tables where the monks took their meals, the guests' hall immediately below; the monks' rooms; the enormous wheel which was used to hoist supplies up a steeply angled 'slide'.
The steep cobbled road from the bottom of the mount up to the abbey now houses hotels and shops aimed squarely at the tourist trade.
As the rain had stopped we walked home across the causeway.
June 14 Avranches to Mont St Michel 26km
As it was a short ride again today, we stayed in town to see an exhibition of Chagall's religious paintings at the Scriptorial, which opened at 10 am. Iain went looking for access to part of the old town ramparts. Sue had better luck, finding a 20€ note and a great little local market. Some old women were obviously selling vegetables grown in the back yard as they only had small quantities displayed on card tables.
After Chagall we called in to the Museum where Sue enjoyed the work of an artist called Henri Marret with works from the early 1900s to the 1960s.
Had a coffee before collecting the bikes and heading out of town by the flatter route, according to the woman in the information centre. She certainly wasn't riding a loaded bike, as the road out was quite steep, with heavy traffic. However, we were then rewarded with a downhill to the coast, and more minor roads with little traffic. Apart from a headwind, which became stronger, it was a pleasant ride. Stopped for lunch at a little restaurant in the tiny village of Bas Coursil. We then rejoined the major road, with traffic becoming heavier as we approached Mont St Michel - an increasing number of tourist buses. The views across the water of Mont St Michel rising out of the sea was arresting.
As we were unsure of the options on the Mount itself, we opted for accommodation at the start of the causeway, about 2 km from the mount.
Did the washing and generally lazed around for the rest of the day - staying in a cabin in a caravan park.
As it was a short ride again today, we stayed in town to see an exhibition of Chagall's religious paintings at the Scriptorial, which opened at 10 am. Iain went looking for access to part of the old town ramparts. Sue had better luck, finding a 20€ note and a great little local market. Some old women were obviously selling vegetables grown in the back yard as they only had small quantities displayed on card tables.
After Chagall we called in to the Museum where Sue enjoyed the work of an artist called Henri Marret with works from the early 1900s to the 1960s.
Had a coffee before collecting the bikes and heading out of town by the flatter route, according to the woman in the information centre. She certainly wasn't riding a loaded bike, as the road out was quite steep, with heavy traffic. However, we were then rewarded with a downhill to the coast, and more minor roads with little traffic. Apart from a headwind, which became stronger, it was a pleasant ride. Stopped for lunch at a little restaurant in the tiny village of Bas Coursil. We then rejoined the major road, with traffic becoming heavier as we approached Mont St Michel - an increasing number of tourist buses. The views across the water of Mont St Michel rising out of the sea was arresting.
As we were unsure of the options on the Mount itself, we opted for accommodation at the start of the causeway, about 2 km from the mount.
Did the washing and generally lazed around for the rest of the day - staying in a cabin in a caravan park.
June 13 Villedieu les Poeles to Avranches 23.5 km
There is nothing pleasant about riding uphill on cold legs, and this morning, within a km of the town centre we struck a corker. Walking the steepest bit was the most sensible thing, so we did. The road today was a fairly busy one with its fair share of hills. Saw a toilet sign in a small town, but couldn't find the toilet. On enquiring, we discovered that it was almost a km away in the next town! Another steady steep heavily trafficked climb into Avranches, arriving late morning after our 8.30 am start. Sitting down to a coffee when it started to rain quite heavily. Noticed that there was a hotel attached to the bar, so booked in. Bikes had to stay in a courtyard at the back which served a couple of businesses. Accessed via a door on the street, so felt he bikes would be reasonably secure.
Visited the Basilique St Gervais in which there was a locked glassed room full of religious treasures, the oddest being a human skull, in an ornate gold cabinet, with a hole in the skull, reputedly caused when an angel laid her finger on the saint's head.
Then went to the Scriptorial d'Avranches to see the ancient manuscripts of Mont St Michel, beautifully preserved, the oldest dating to 10th C.
Later went for a walk through the cobbled streets and onto the castle ramparts, which gave a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside.
There is nothing pleasant about riding uphill on cold legs, and this morning, within a km of the town centre we struck a corker. Walking the steepest bit was the most sensible thing, so we did. The road today was a fairly busy one with its fair share of hills. Saw a toilet sign in a small town, but couldn't find the toilet. On enquiring, we discovered that it was almost a km away in the next town! Another steady steep heavily trafficked climb into Avranches, arriving late morning after our 8.30 am start. Sitting down to a coffee when it started to rain quite heavily. Noticed that there was a hotel attached to the bar, so booked in. Bikes had to stay in a courtyard at the back which served a couple of businesses. Accessed via a door on the street, so felt he bikes would be reasonably secure.
Visited the Basilique St Gervais in which there was a locked glassed room full of religious treasures, the oddest being a human skull, in an ornate gold cabinet, with a hole in the skull, reputedly caused when an angel laid her finger on the saint's head.
Then went to the Scriptorial d'Avranches to see the ancient manuscripts of Mont St Michel, beautifully preserved, the oldest dating to 10th C.
Later went for a walk through the cobbled streets and onto the castle ramparts, which gave a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
June 12 Villedieu les Poeles
Another rest day, some more rain! Only lasted a few hours. My coffee this morning was delivered in a large cereal bowl!
Had an interesting visit to the Fonderie de Cloches, the oldest bell foundry in France. As the only English speaking tourists, we had our personal guide to show us around and explain the process of making the bells - huge bells using traditional methods, although now also using a block and tackle to help move the bells. The mold is made from a mixture of manure, mud and goats hair.
A visit to the museum of Normandy furniture followed, some of the furniture dating back to the 13thC. Rooms were set up as replicas of a 17thC Normandy house. Beautiful, intricate carving on many of the pieces.
In the narrow streets we found another small museum which had a collection of old copper pots and utensils as well as a lace display. The young attendant gave us a demonstration of lace-making - a painfully slow process. Then on to the Atelier du Cuiure to see he coppersmiths at work. Villedieu was known as the town of the deaf, and it was interesting to note that he coppersmiths were not wearing earmuffs. I asked about this and was advised that they are supplied to the workers, but they prefer not to use them as they need to hear the sound of the copper as it is beaten to make the best products - so the modern workers also go deaf.
Iain had local sausage and gizzards with salad which he found quite tasty. The English translation on the menu described the item as gizzards and guts - too intriguing not to try them.
Another rest day, some more rain! Only lasted a few hours. My coffee this morning was delivered in a large cereal bowl!
Had an interesting visit to the Fonderie de Cloches, the oldest bell foundry in France. As the only English speaking tourists, we had our personal guide to show us around and explain the process of making the bells - huge bells using traditional methods, although now also using a block and tackle to help move the bells. The mold is made from a mixture of manure, mud and goats hair.
A visit to the museum of Normandy furniture followed, some of the furniture dating back to the 13thC. Rooms were set up as replicas of a 17thC Normandy house. Beautiful, intricate carving on many of the pieces.
In the narrow streets we found another small museum which had a collection of old copper pots and utensils as well as a lace display. The young attendant gave us a demonstration of lace-making - a painfully slow process. Then on to the Atelier du Cuiure to see he coppersmiths at work. Villedieu was known as the town of the deaf, and it was interesting to note that he coppersmiths were not wearing earmuffs. I asked about this and was advised that they are supplied to the workers, but they prefer not to use them as they need to hear the sound of the copper as it is beaten to make the best products - so the modern workers also go deaf.
Iain had local sausage and gizzards with salad which he found quite tasty. The English translation on the menu described the item as gizzards and guts - too intriguing not to try them.
June 11 St Lo to Villedieu-les-Poeles 43 kms
Since leaving Bayeux we are heading south to south-west towards Mont St Michel. Today was more south, the first 20 km being along an undulating busy road. We stopped at the small village of Villebaudon for a coffee in a little bar. The owner told us that the town had been almost completely destroyed during the war. The town is built on the top of a hill and commands quite a view over the surrounding countryside. The church tower was used by the British as a look-out.
From here we took to the back roads. Hillier, but easier to take with the small amount of motor traffic. We tootled along, walking up the steeper hills, enjoying the countryside and the beautiful stone farm buildings, the tidy towns and houses with their colourful flower boxes.
Arrived in the pretty town of Villedieu. Finding a hotel, having a bath and a look around the town, we decided to stay for two days to have a look at the copper utensil factory and the bell foundry.
Weather has been great, with only a few days when the sun was very hot and we applied the sunscreen. We have also been fascinated by the number of hedges, both in the towns and around the farm paddocks. A lot of time and effort is required to maintain these hedges.
We are now moving into 'horse country'. Have seen one Breton horse stud with their stocky local horses. Moving into more thoroughbred country and have seen from the outside some large 'national' stables. Churches and church bells are also a feature of all towns, with bells ringing out the quarter hour.
Since leaving Bayeux we are heading south to south-west towards Mont St Michel. Today was more south, the first 20 km being along an undulating busy road. We stopped at the small village of Villebaudon for a coffee in a little bar. The owner told us that the town had been almost completely destroyed during the war. The town is built on the top of a hill and commands quite a view over the surrounding countryside. The church tower was used by the British as a look-out.
From here we took to the back roads. Hillier, but easier to take with the small amount of motor traffic. We tootled along, walking up the steeper hills, enjoying the countryside and the beautiful stone farm buildings, the tidy towns and houses with their colourful flower boxes.
Arrived in the pretty town of Villedieu. Finding a hotel, having a bath and a look around the town, we decided to stay for two days to have a look at the copper utensil factory and the bell foundry.
Weather has been great, with only a few days when the sun was very hot and we applied the sunscreen. We have also been fascinated by the number of hedges, both in the towns and around the farm paddocks. A lot of time and effort is required to maintain these hedges.
We are now moving into 'horse country'. Have seen one Breton horse stud with their stocky local horses. Moving into more thoroughbred country and have seen from the outside some large 'national' stables. Churches and church bells are also a feature of all towns, with bells ringing out the quarter hour.
June 10 Bayeux to St Lo 44 kms
What a day! Sue kept asking me what the date was, to which I replied that I had no idea. So focussed on the road ahead was I that it took some very heavy hints to remind me that it was June 10, Sue's 65th birthday! Won't Sue dine out on this story! She celebrated her birthday by riding up all the hills and hitting 40 kph on a downhill!
We called in to the town of Cerisy-la-Foret to see the work of a group of international scupltors who were working on their pieces from June 7-21. Too early to appreciate the works but plenty of dust and noise. Walked around a pretty lake and viewed sculptures from past competitions and also visited the Abbaye de Cerisy, a romanesque-style church dating from the 11th C. Given a guided tour by a student who loved the buildings. Saw the Justice Room where the Bishop held court and administered justice, as well as the cellars and a small cell for prisoners. There are also a series of underground tunnels created as a means of escape for the monks if they were under attack. In the nave of the church we saw some beautiful oak seats built in the 13thC, the invoice for which is still in existence. Also viewed some 13thC manuscripts and music sheets. A most enjoyable stop.
The first 25 kms from Bayeux was along pretty country roads without any serious hills, but this all changed after Cerisy. The hills became more frequent, the traffic heavier, and the temperature rising to 26. St Lo seemed to be a series of hills, which was compounded by the fact that we had trouble locating the 'Best Hotel' where Iain had reserved a room. Took us about 2 hours of asking for directions and riding up and down hills before we found the hotel, which was modern, basic, but better than the one at Ifs. I gave Sue's weary body a massage and then took her out to dinner at Buffalo Grills to celebrate her birthday. Fast food, and a friendly African waitress. Fortunately Sue's spare ribs were tender and tasty. My buffalo steak was the toughest meat I have had for years.
What a day! Sue kept asking me what the date was, to which I replied that I had no idea. So focussed on the road ahead was I that it took some very heavy hints to remind me that it was June 10, Sue's 65th birthday! Won't Sue dine out on this story! She celebrated her birthday by riding up all the hills and hitting 40 kph on a downhill!
We called in to the town of Cerisy-la-Foret to see the work of a group of international scupltors who were working on their pieces from June 7-21. Too early to appreciate the works but plenty of dust and noise. Walked around a pretty lake and viewed sculptures from past competitions and also visited the Abbaye de Cerisy, a romanesque-style church dating from the 11th C. Given a guided tour by a student who loved the buildings. Saw the Justice Room where the Bishop held court and administered justice, as well as the cellars and a small cell for prisoners. There are also a series of underground tunnels created as a means of escape for the monks if they were under attack. In the nave of the church we saw some beautiful oak seats built in the 13thC, the invoice for which is still in existence. Also viewed some 13thC manuscripts and music sheets. A most enjoyable stop.
The first 25 kms from Bayeux was along pretty country roads without any serious hills, but this all changed after Cerisy. The hills became more frequent, the traffic heavier, and the temperature rising to 26. St Lo seemed to be a series of hills, which was compounded by the fact that we had trouble locating the 'Best Hotel' where Iain had reserved a room. Took us about 2 hours of asking for directions and riding up and down hills before we found the hotel, which was modern, basic, but better than the one at Ifs. I gave Sue's weary body a massage and then took her out to dinner at Buffalo Grills to celebrate her birthday. Fast food, and a friendly African waitress. Fortunately Sue's spare ribs were tender and tasty. My buffalo steak was the toughest meat I have had for years.
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