July1 Carnac to Auray 35kms
Last day of cycle touring today. After a shower and good breakfast we were ready to hit the road. I hadn't checked the road out yesterday, so with my great sense of direction headed out the wrong road. Saw a sign to where we wanted to go, but the road was closed due to road works, so it was back into town to start again. Fortunately we only travelled a couple of kms extra. The right road took us down to the beach road for a pleasant ride around the coast. The road became busier until we turned of to Locmariaquer to see more menhirs and dolmens. Visited and walked (stooped) into a couple of dolmens, and on the way out of town I detoured to view from the outside a huge dolmen. I caught up with Sue at the junction with the main road back to Auray. Again the traffic reduced the enjoyment, but apart from the last 4 kms, the road was easy. The last 4 kms contained a few hills to remind us at the end that cycle touring is not all easy.
Our riding ended at the Auray railway station. Almost 5 weeks and 1050 kms.
It has been a wonderful holiday, a good mix of riding and looking at the towns and villages we rode through, having coffees and relaxed lunches along the trail. On reflection 5 weeks has been a bit long for the amount of riding preparation that Sue was able to undertake and she has become fairly physically tired. She also has become a little sick of living out of panniers each day.
Next touring holiday we will probably select two or three places to use as a base and ride out to explore the surrounding countryside and then spend maybe a week on the road riding between base towns.
Although we have finished pedalling around France, I will continue the account of our travels in Spain and Croatia on the same blog.
We again were able to put the loaded bikes on the train for the short trip to Vannes, although this time we had to lift them up quite a height into a special carriage where they were locked. At Vannes we booked into a hotel just around from the station. We booked in for 3 nights before starting our train journey to Bilbao to meet son Cameron.
Although the owner is a bike rider, with a very nice carbon Colnago, he still charged us for parking our bikes in his secure storage area.
After tidying ourselves up we walked in to town to find the Information Centre, which is down on the waterfront. Used their internet to book in to an Ibis hotel in Irun - one of two reasonably priced hotels in Irun, although above what we would have liked to pay. On the way home we called in for dinner at a small restaurant recommended by our hotel manager, and enjoyed a very good, reasonably priced meal provided by a very personable owner and his cook wife who came out of the kitchen to greet us and shake our hand.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Monday, July 28, 2008
June 30 Lorient to Carnac
Breakfast this morning was served in the tiny, ordered back garden. Although it was a bit chilly, we enjoyed this start to our day.
This was going to another big day with over 40 kms of more hills and undulations, as well as riding on some more major roads to get out of town. To give leg-weary bodies a chance, and to give ourselves a more enjoyable day, we decided to take the train to Auray and then ride 20 kms to Carnac, giving ourselves plenty of time to look at the megaliths. Could take the assembled bikes on the train which was great.
Part of the ride was on a busy road, which was undulating, but with not too many challenging hills. Once off the main road the ride became much more enjoyable. Passed a couple of sites with a number of alignments of large rocks before coming to the Kermario Alignments in a field 1200 m long and 100 m wide with 1029 menhirs (large granite rocks) in 10 rows. Nearby was the largest menhir in the region - over 6 m high. As well as the menhirs, there are dolmens which are burial mounds built of huge slabs of rock and approached by a rock-walled and roofed tunnel. They were built by placing the wall rocks in place and then filling the area in with dirt before dragging the huge roof rocks into place, and then removing the infill soil to create the room. They all date back to at least 5000 years BC.
Arriving in Carnac, we booked into a cute, ancient inn, now a B&B, called 'Chez Nous', delighted to find that we had a ground floor room.
Visited the Museum, where we admired some skeletons which are around 6500 years old, then visited the ornate church of St Cornely, completed in 1657. Paintings, naves and altars everywhere, and beautiful stained glass windows and iron work.
Breakfast this morning was served in the tiny, ordered back garden. Although it was a bit chilly, we enjoyed this start to our day.
This was going to another big day with over 40 kms of more hills and undulations, as well as riding on some more major roads to get out of town. To give leg-weary bodies a chance, and to give ourselves a more enjoyable day, we decided to take the train to Auray and then ride 20 kms to Carnac, giving ourselves plenty of time to look at the megaliths. Could take the assembled bikes on the train which was great.
Part of the ride was on a busy road, which was undulating, but with not too many challenging hills. Once off the main road the ride became much more enjoyable. Passed a couple of sites with a number of alignments of large rocks before coming to the Kermario Alignments in a field 1200 m long and 100 m wide with 1029 menhirs (large granite rocks) in 10 rows. Nearby was the largest menhir in the region - over 6 m high. As well as the menhirs, there are dolmens which are burial mounds built of huge slabs of rock and approached by a rock-walled and roofed tunnel. They were built by placing the wall rocks in place and then filling the area in with dirt before dragging the huge roof rocks into place, and then removing the infill soil to create the room. They all date back to at least 5000 years BC.
Arriving in Carnac, we booked into a cute, ancient inn, now a B&B, called 'Chez Nous', delighted to find that we had a ground floor room.
Visited the Museum, where we admired some skeletons which are around 6500 years old, then visited the ornate church of St Cornely, completed in 1657. Paintings, naves and altars everywhere, and beautiful stained glass windows and iron work.
June 29 Pont Aven to Lorient 47 kms
After a restless night, enjoyed a very wholesome breakfast to ready us for the road. Longer ride today, so wanted to be away reasonably early. Loaded the bikes out the front, to the amusement of some Italians touring on motor bikes, and went to pay the bill. Bank card wouldn't work. Off the an ATM - same result; tried another ATM with same result. Tried to ring the bank's emergency number to be told that they were closed until Monday. It was Sunday, of course, when these sort of things always happen. Rang another number for lost and stolen cards, this time actually getting to speak to a real person, who was very helpful. Could tell me that my card had been blocked because I hadn't made a payment -eventually realised that I hadn't changed my SMS security service number from my mobile to daughter Megan who was paying all our bills while we are away. Fortunately the emergency girl was able to re-activate our account, so that when I got back to the hotel our card was thankfully working again.
On the road at 10.30 for a 3 km steady and sometimes serious climb out of town. Despite the rolling terrain, we had some good downhill sections on this ride. At the only serious down and up shown on the map, we decided to stop at the bottom at a lake to have our banana sandwich lunch, and continued on, arriving in Lorient at around 2.30pm. Information office closed; found a hotel - closed until 5.30pm; another - closed until 6.30pm. Did not improve our impression of Lorient, which we found as not very attractive, despite being a harbour town. Fortunately the window of the Information office contained the name and phone number for a B&B where we were able to book in. Downstairs in a couple of rooms in a family house. Very comfortable and run by a very pleasant woman.
Walked the couple of kms into town for dinner and home again. Watched Spain defeat Germany in the World Cup Tournament and Venus Williams playing tennis before hitting the sack.
After a restless night, enjoyed a very wholesome breakfast to ready us for the road. Longer ride today, so wanted to be away reasonably early. Loaded the bikes out the front, to the amusement of some Italians touring on motor bikes, and went to pay the bill. Bank card wouldn't work. Off the an ATM - same result; tried another ATM with same result. Tried to ring the bank's emergency number to be told that they were closed until Monday. It was Sunday, of course, when these sort of things always happen. Rang another number for lost and stolen cards, this time actually getting to speak to a real person, who was very helpful. Could tell me that my card had been blocked because I hadn't made a payment -eventually realised that I hadn't changed my SMS security service number from my mobile to daughter Megan who was paying all our bills while we are away. Fortunately the emergency girl was able to re-activate our account, so that when I got back to the hotel our card was thankfully working again.
On the road at 10.30 for a 3 km steady and sometimes serious climb out of town. Despite the rolling terrain, we had some good downhill sections on this ride. At the only serious down and up shown on the map, we decided to stop at the bottom at a lake to have our banana sandwich lunch, and continued on, arriving in Lorient at around 2.30pm. Information office closed; found a hotel - closed until 5.30pm; another - closed until 6.30pm. Did not improve our impression of Lorient, which we found as not very attractive, despite being a harbour town. Fortunately the window of the Information office contained the name and phone number for a B&B where we were able to book in. Downstairs in a couple of rooms in a family house. Very comfortable and run by a very pleasant woman.
Walked the couple of kms into town for dinner and home again. Watched Spain defeat Germany in the World Cup Tournament and Venus Williams playing tennis before hitting the sack.
June 26 Scaer to Pont Aven 29 kms
Our map showed that the last section of the rail trail - 13 km to the town of Rosporden - was under construction. Fortunately our information was out of date and the trail was in quite good condition. As I had been predicting for several days, the trail did go downhill, although there were 3 kms of uphill first, but then it was a breeze and most enjoyable. From Rosporden we had to return to the road for 16 km, the first time that we had been on roads for quite a few days. The fact that most of the way was down compensated for both the few hills and also the traffic. We arrived in Pont Aven down a long, steep hill (me thinking 'we've got to get out of here in a day or two') into a very pretty riverside village and booked into a lovely hotel where our room overlooked the river harbour and the opposite hills. Very relaxing and refreshing. Decided to stay for three nights to relax and have a good look around the town.
Gaugin and his school of artists put Pont Aven on the map last century, and today there are around 46 artists with galleries in town - all styles, including those copying the styles and works o.f Gaugin and others. Sue found a gallery that had some beautiful sculptures of horses and bears - flowing easy lines - costing 15000 Euros plus.
When we asked to lady who runs the hotel for directions to a laundromat, she said she would wash our clothes for us - very kind and unexpected touch.
Dined at the next door creperie.
June 27 Pont Aven
After a bit of a slow start we visited the Museum to see an exhibition of the work of an artist called Signac, who painted in the area in the first half of the 19thC.
Had a light lunch at a small cafe in town and then Iain decided to rest and read while Sue headed off to explore the area. Her meanderings took her out of town and into the countryside and she was soon quite lost. Met a man and asked for her location on the map she had. He seemed to indicate that she should keep going the way she was to reach town. After walking for some time with no sign of Pont Aven she met another man who told her to go back the way she had come and turn left twice. Following his instuctions she did find herself back in town and the first person she met was this man. The second person she met was the first man she had asked for directions!
Had our worst meal of the trip at a local hotel restaurant.
June 28 Pont Aven
Raining this morning when we woke, but cleared during the morning. On checking our emails learnt that the 20 year old youngest son of one of our close friends had died last week. Had dinner, sat in chair and went to sleep and didn't wake up. Devastating news. Phoned our friend, but are really feeling the distance between us. Wandered around somewhat shell-shocked for the rest of the day.
Our map showed that the last section of the rail trail - 13 km to the town of Rosporden - was under construction. Fortunately our information was out of date and the trail was in quite good condition. As I had been predicting for several days, the trail did go downhill, although there were 3 kms of uphill first, but then it was a breeze and most enjoyable. From Rosporden we had to return to the road for 16 km, the first time that we had been on roads for quite a few days. The fact that most of the way was down compensated for both the few hills and also the traffic. We arrived in Pont Aven down a long, steep hill (me thinking 'we've got to get out of here in a day or two') into a very pretty riverside village and booked into a lovely hotel where our room overlooked the river harbour and the opposite hills. Very relaxing and refreshing. Decided to stay for three nights to relax and have a good look around the town.
Gaugin and his school of artists put Pont Aven on the map last century, and today there are around 46 artists with galleries in town - all styles, including those copying the styles and works o.f Gaugin and others. Sue found a gallery that had some beautiful sculptures of horses and bears - flowing easy lines - costing 15000 Euros plus.
When we asked to lady who runs the hotel for directions to a laundromat, she said she would wash our clothes for us - very kind and unexpected touch.
Dined at the next door creperie.
June 27 Pont Aven
After a bit of a slow start we visited the Museum to see an exhibition of the work of an artist called Signac, who painted in the area in the first half of the 19thC.
Had a light lunch at a small cafe in town and then Iain decided to rest and read while Sue headed off to explore the area. Her meanderings took her out of town and into the countryside and she was soon quite lost. Met a man and asked for her location on the map she had. He seemed to indicate that she should keep going the way she was to reach town. After walking for some time with no sign of Pont Aven she met another man who told her to go back the way she had come and turn left twice. Following his instuctions she did find herself back in town and the first person she met was this man. The second person she met was the first man she had asked for directions!
Had our worst meal of the trip at a local hotel restaurant.
June 28 Pont Aven
Raining this morning when we woke, but cleared during the morning. On checking our emails learnt that the 20 year old youngest son of one of our close friends had died last week. Had dinner, sat in chair and went to sleep and didn't wake up. Devastating news. Phoned our friend, but are really feeling the distance between us. Wandered around somewhat shell-shocked for the rest of the day.
June 24 Carhaix Plougher to Scaer 39 km
The road from town was downhill. At last we had an easy start to the day! Our celebrations were premature, as we soon encountered a couple of serious hills before arriving at the start of the trail. Then the trail kept the theme going for most of the ride. 20 km into the ride we stopped in the little village of Gourin and had a hot chocolate at the Boomerang Bar. Name seemed to be accidental, as the bartender didn't know anything about boomerangs and Australia. When his wife arrived she greeted everyone in the bar - a kiss for those she knew and a handshake for us.
After another 10 km of uphill we stopped by the side of the trail for our lunch of yoghurt and banana. Uphill for another few kms before the track levelled out and then actually descended in the township of Scaer or should I say to the road into the township - which of course was uphill. I tried a caravan camping ground at the bottom of the hill but found no one home but a note saying pitch your tent or park your caravan and we will settle the formalities later. We had no tent so the only option was head off up the hill. Information office closed.
Unfortunately, the accommodation book we had been given did not show any accommodation in town. I rang one of the B&B's listed to be told that they were 4 kms out of town in the wrong direction for us. I booked us in, then we looked for some food before tackling the undulating trip. Sue asked the lady if there were any B&B's in town to be told yes, just at the top of the hill. Relieved we went to the place which was in a beautiful garden setting. I cancelled the other B&B. and we settled in to the most extraordinary room with fake roman columns at the end of the bed. Bedside lamps and a couple of sculptures were glued to the bedside tables and stands. Despite the eclectic selection of decor, the room was spacious, and very clean.
Madame spoke no English, but her sister came and told us in French that we could use the kitchen area of the dining room to make ourselves some dinner. Off to the supermarket and home with cold chicken, tomatoes, capsicum and cheese, as well as chocolate mousse and a bottle of cider brut. Sue only had one glass of the cider. I finished the rest of the litre bottle and knew about it that night. Developed something of a head-ache.
Pleasant end to another hard day, so it was off to bed for a good night's rest. Again debated about staying another day for recuperation, but decided against it as we didn't want to limit the time we had at Port Aven or have to cut the trip short in order to meet Cam in Bilbao.
The road from town was downhill. At last we had an easy start to the day! Our celebrations were premature, as we soon encountered a couple of serious hills before arriving at the start of the trail. Then the trail kept the theme going for most of the ride. 20 km into the ride we stopped in the little village of Gourin and had a hot chocolate at the Boomerang Bar. Name seemed to be accidental, as the bartender didn't know anything about boomerangs and Australia. When his wife arrived she greeted everyone in the bar - a kiss for those she knew and a handshake for us.
After another 10 km of uphill we stopped by the side of the trail for our lunch of yoghurt and banana. Uphill for another few kms before the track levelled out and then actually descended in the township of Scaer or should I say to the road into the township - which of course was uphill. I tried a caravan camping ground at the bottom of the hill but found no one home but a note saying pitch your tent or park your caravan and we will settle the formalities later. We had no tent so the only option was head off up the hill. Information office closed.
Unfortunately, the accommodation book we had been given did not show any accommodation in town. I rang one of the B&B's listed to be told that they were 4 kms out of town in the wrong direction for us. I booked us in, then we looked for some food before tackling the undulating trip. Sue asked the lady if there were any B&B's in town to be told yes, just at the top of the hill. Relieved we went to the place which was in a beautiful garden setting. I cancelled the other B&B. and we settled in to the most extraordinary room with fake roman columns at the end of the bed. Bedside lamps and a couple of sculptures were glued to the bedside tables and stands. Despite the eclectic selection of decor, the room was spacious, and very clean.
Madame spoke no English, but her sister came and told us in French that we could use the kitchen area of the dining room to make ourselves some dinner. Off to the supermarket and home with cold chicken, tomatoes, capsicum and cheese, as well as chocolate mousse and a bottle of cider brut. Sue only had one glass of the cider. I finished the rest of the litre bottle and knew about it that night. Developed something of a head-ache.
Pleasant end to another hard day, so it was off to bed for a good night's rest. Again debated about staying another day for recuperation, but decided against it as we didn't want to limit the time we had at Port Aven or have to cut the trip short in order to meet Cam in Bilbao.
Friday, July 18, 2008
June 24 Gouarec to Carhaix-Plougher 45 km
It would have been good to stop another day at this peaceful park, but we were running out of spare days if we are going to complete our planned journey to Vannes and on to meet Cam in Bilbao in early July. Walked down to the Boulangerie to buy some pastries and take them into the bar to have with some delicious hot chocolate.
We headed out of town and uphill to the rail trail, as we had been advised to take the rail trail to Rostren to visit the market and then take the canal path for the rest of the way. The rail trail was very undulating. Mark and Anne, the South African pastors, caught up to us, just as we passed a brightly coloured snake on the trail. Sunning itself and not threatening at all. Rode into town with them, with Mark showing us the way to exit town and find the canal path. Had a relaxing coffee with them beside the market. Talked with an English trio, probably in their 70's - woman and two men, who have pooled their pensions to buy a place in Rostrenen. In winter they rent a house in Portugal. She was pushing a pram containing two pekinese dogs. Real characters - could have chosen to stay in England and end up in a nursing home waiting for the kids to work out a way to get their money, so they decided to get up and go. The woman had just had a knee replacement and was using the pram instead of a walking frame. They and the other English people we met, including the fast food woman and her young teenage family, all lamented the decline in quality of life in England, the increasing violence and lack of respect. The French children are certainly polite and courteous, as were the fast food children.
Riding out of town it was up and down some steep hills as we headed for the canal path. Much further than I anticipated but we kept heading downwards as we figured that would be where the canal would be - eventually proving this theory correct.
The canal path was quite pretty, but proved a much longer route than anticipated, and much harder to follow on the map. I eventually found some people I could ask for reassurance that we were on the right path. Towards the end there were some wet and sloppy parts and others more rocky. I was relieved to reach the town of Carhaix-Plougher, even if it required negotiating several more hills an traffic on the 4 km ride into town.
I left Sue while I headed off following signs to the Tourist Information office. Eventually found it
and was surprised to see Sue walking towards me - I had followed signs right around the block to find the Tourist office at the point from which I started the search. They have just moved and were awaiting new street signage! This frustration at the end of the day was compensated for by a very helpful woman who gave me a lot of information about the trail ahead, as well as other riding options, as well as advice as to hotels. Booked in to the nearest hotel, bikes stored in the manager/barman/dogsbod's office, while we carried our bags up the narrow staircase to the second floor.
It would have been good to stop another day at this peaceful park, but we were running out of spare days if we are going to complete our planned journey to Vannes and on to meet Cam in Bilbao in early July. Walked down to the Boulangerie to buy some pastries and take them into the bar to have with some delicious hot chocolate.
We headed out of town and uphill to the rail trail, as we had been advised to take the rail trail to Rostren to visit the market and then take the canal path for the rest of the way. The rail trail was very undulating. Mark and Anne, the South African pastors, caught up to us, just as we passed a brightly coloured snake on the trail. Sunning itself and not threatening at all. Rode into town with them, with Mark showing us the way to exit town and find the canal path. Had a relaxing coffee with them beside the market. Talked with an English trio, probably in their 70's - woman and two men, who have pooled their pensions to buy a place in Rostrenen. In winter they rent a house in Portugal. She was pushing a pram containing two pekinese dogs. Real characters - could have chosen to stay in England and end up in a nursing home waiting for the kids to work out a way to get their money, so they decided to get up and go. The woman had just had a knee replacement and was using the pram instead of a walking frame. They and the other English people we met, including the fast food woman and her young teenage family, all lamented the decline in quality of life in England, the increasing violence and lack of respect. The French children are certainly polite and courteous, as were the fast food children.
Riding out of town it was up and down some steep hills as we headed for the canal path. Much further than I anticipated but we kept heading downwards as we figured that would be where the canal would be - eventually proving this theory correct.
The canal path was quite pretty, but proved a much longer route than anticipated, and much harder to follow on the map. I eventually found some people I could ask for reassurance that we were on the right path. Towards the end there were some wet and sloppy parts and others more rocky. I was relieved to reach the town of Carhaix-Plougher, even if it required negotiating several more hills an traffic on the 4 km ride into town.
I left Sue while I headed off following signs to the Tourist Information office. Eventually found it
and was surprised to see Sue walking towards me - I had followed signs right around the block to find the Tourist office at the point from which I started the search. They have just moved and were awaiting new street signage! This frustration at the end of the day was compensated for by a very helpful woman who gave me a lot of information about the trail ahead, as well as other riding options, as well as advice as to hotels. Booked in to the nearest hotel, bikes stored in the manager/barman/dogsbod's office, while we carried our bags up the narrow staircase to the second floor.
June 23 Loudeac to Gouarec 44 km
Fine weather and some beautiful views over the surrounding countryside as we gradually climbed higher. Crops, hedges, farm houses and buildings, hills and valleys, viewed from a quiet shady trail. Called in to the town of Mer de Bretagne for a coffee at a small bar. It doesn't seem to matter how early we go into these small bars, there are always a few older local men sitting on stools having a drink - mostly wine or beer, but sometimes a short black. Then in to a large supermarket to stock up on all sorts of goodies for the trail.
Back on the trail we met a young french couple on a tandem reading their map. They were riding from Brest to Nantes along a canal path, from which they had to make a short diversion. They told us that soon we would have the option of rail trail or canal path to Carhaix Plougher, which is the end of this trail.
Further up the trail, well into horse country, and we found a seat where we stopped to have lunch - another banana placed carefully into a baguette and sprinkled with sugar. The seat was fortuitous, as I noticed that a pin in the rear suspension of Sue's bike had started to come out. My trusty mini-tool and a rock soon rectified the matter and we were on our way.
A diversion occurred in the rail trail, taking us down to a gorgeous stop called Bon Repos. Had coffee at a small cafe overlooking a river and the ancient Abbaye de Bon-Repos, built in 1184.
From here we followed a very pretty canal path - shared with walkers, other cyclists, canoeists on the canal, water lilies along the banks - all this and sunshine.
5 km and we arrived in Gouarec and found the station hostel, but no one around. When we found people they weren't very helpful. A woman arrived and went into the station - but looked particularly unfriendly. After a while we went in to be met with a torrent of unpleasantness. She had lost money because of us and wasn't prepared to give us a bed tonight. As the book we had did not mention any other accommodation in the town (the only hotel had closed) this was a cause for concern until she told us to go down to the caravan park and see 'David'. We did and found a very helpful Englishman who rented us a caravan. We had our silk sleeping bag sheets with us so he said he would help out with blankets, even though they didn't usually supply linen.
Tonight a fast food van was going to trial visits to the park for the summer period, so we thought that we would support them - an English woman who is trying to educate the French to the delights of English fast food!
After dinner had a chat with David, his wife and some other park residents, including a couple who are Assemblies of God pastors in England. Also met another very pleasant English couple who regularly travel around France in their motor home. Exchanged email addresses with them and retired for a very good sleep in the quiet of the park, which was on an island in the middle of the canal/river.
Fine weather and some beautiful views over the surrounding countryside as we gradually climbed higher. Crops, hedges, farm houses and buildings, hills and valleys, viewed from a quiet shady trail. Called in to the town of Mer de Bretagne for a coffee at a small bar. It doesn't seem to matter how early we go into these small bars, there are always a few older local men sitting on stools having a drink - mostly wine or beer, but sometimes a short black. Then in to a large supermarket to stock up on all sorts of goodies for the trail.
Back on the trail we met a young french couple on a tandem reading their map. They were riding from Brest to Nantes along a canal path, from which they had to make a short diversion. They told us that soon we would have the option of rail trail or canal path to Carhaix Plougher, which is the end of this trail.
Further up the trail, well into horse country, and we found a seat where we stopped to have lunch - another banana placed carefully into a baguette and sprinkled with sugar. The seat was fortuitous, as I noticed that a pin in the rear suspension of Sue's bike had started to come out. My trusty mini-tool and a rock soon rectified the matter and we were on our way.
A diversion occurred in the rail trail, taking us down to a gorgeous stop called Bon Repos. Had coffee at a small cafe overlooking a river and the ancient Abbaye de Bon-Repos, built in 1184.
From here we followed a very pretty canal path - shared with walkers, other cyclists, canoeists on the canal, water lilies along the banks - all this and sunshine.
5 km and we arrived in Gouarec and found the station hostel, but no one around. When we found people they weren't very helpful. A woman arrived and went into the station - but looked particularly unfriendly. After a while we went in to be met with a torrent of unpleasantness. She had lost money because of us and wasn't prepared to give us a bed tonight. As the book we had did not mention any other accommodation in the town (the only hotel had closed) this was a cause for concern until she told us to go down to the caravan park and see 'David'. We did and found a very helpful Englishman who rented us a caravan. We had our silk sleeping bag sheets with us so he said he would help out with blankets, even though they didn't usually supply linen.
Tonight a fast food van was going to trial visits to the park for the summer period, so we thought that we would support them - an English woman who is trying to educate the French to the delights of English fast food!
After dinner had a chat with David, his wife and some other park residents, including a couple who are Assemblies of God pastors in England. Also met another very pleasant English couple who regularly travel around France in their motor home. Exchanged email addresses with them and retired for a very good sleep in the quiet of the park, which was on an island in the middle of the canal/river.
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