Well, that's the end of our riding for this holiday. I will be riding around Barcelona with Cam, and out to his studio, about 7 km from their flat, but that will be about it. Sue doesn't like riding around town, even though their are many bike lanes. I must admit it can be a bit chaotic and keeps the adrenalin moving. Dealing with pedestrians in bike lanes, cyclists going the wrong way in the bike lane, cars turning across the bike lanes, and getting used to the fact that cyclists seem to ignore traffic lights. At best, cyclists will wait until the warning light indicates that the lights are about to change, and then start moving, as do the motor scooters and motor bikes. At other times, cyclists move out into the intersection to see if their is any traffic moving with the lights. If not, they cross the intersection, even though they are facing a red light. Nobody seems too fussed by this behaviour, but I understand that you accept full responsibility if you are hit by a car when behaving in this fashion. I have to admit to a few close shaves when trying to ride like a local, but having difficulty in working out which direction the traffic is coming from. But I am still alive, so all is well. I sometimes ride the Birdy, but at other times use the 3 speed community bikes. These are free for the first 30 minutes and there is a charge of 30c per 15 minutes after that. There are bicing stations all over the city, and removes all concern of having your bike stolen. Cam uses 3 locks with his bike - U lock, a Dutch style lock on the back wheel (attaches to the rear fork. When activated, a bolt passes between the spokes near the rim, making it impossible to turn or remove the wheel) and another huge chain which is most commonly used with motor scooters. It is essential to lock the frame, the front and back wheels and also the seat. The streets of Barcelona are littered with bike frames minus wheels and seats, with the frame locked to a post.

We spent two weeks with Cam and Leila, and were to go to Croatia for two weeks, but as Leila was going to Italy to visit her parents and spend time with a friend, we cut our trip to Croatia to 8 days, enough to make us want to see more of the country. We stayed a week in Split and then had two days in Dubrovnik before flying back to Barcelona. We stayed at a time-share unit in Split, and went on three trips organised by the hosts, meeting some very nice Russians, one of whom spoke English, and enabled some communication between us to complement the smiles.

Back in Barcelona, we are spending quite a bit of time at Cam's studio, as he has convinced Sue to do a linocut measuring 1800x1200, three or four times larger than anything Sue has undertaken. We have less than a week before we had back to Australia, so all stops are out to finish the cut and for Cam to print it. Once Sue has completed the detailed cutting, Cam and I will be cutting out the blank surrounds of the print. We have also been attending life drawing with Cam at an artist's community workshop in Barcelona. There a three hour sessions each morning, afternoon and evening 6 days a week. Some rooms have fixed poses for the week, others shorter. The one we have attended most has poses of 3,5 and 8 minutes. It is very intense. There are some 900 members of the community. Sue and I attended as casual members, paying 4 Euros each per session.


This as been a fabulous holiday. It will be sad to say goodbye to Cam next week, but it will be good to go home and see the girls and their husbands/partners and our grandchildren - as well as our friends and to settle into the routine of home again. It will also be good to say goodbye to the humidity of Barcelona - and the crowds. It will also be good to get away from the endless stairs you have to climb in Europe. Leila has just bought two apartments in Barcelona which they will renovate into one apartment and thankfully it is only on the second floor.

See you soon, and I hope this blog has not bored you witless.

Iain and Sue

July 9 Barcelona
Cam and I went out to his studio today to fix Leila's bike in preparation for our ride this weekend up into the Pyranees. Sue spent a fruitless day looking around the shops for shoes. The humidity is quite high and Sue and I are feeling very tired a lot of the time - if we see a bed we seem to lie down and doze.

July 11 - 14 Ripoll to La Pinya (near Olot) to Girona by bike
Leila finished work early today so that we could load our bikes onto the 12.15 train for the 1.5 hour trip to Ripoll, the start of the rail trail towards Olot. Cam said that it would be an easy 15 km ride along the rail trail. When we got off the train we were stopped by the sight of the mountains immediately behind the town which seemed to head straight for the sky. Fortunately trains don't go straight up mountains. We had a sausage sandwich at a bar opposite the station before stocking up on water, bananas and chocolate. We located the start of the trail quite easily and were pleased to see that it was sealed. The trail headed along the side of the range, climbing steadily for 12 kms to the old station at Sant Joan de les Abadesses. The station now houses a coffee shop, so we stopped for coffee before searching for the continuation of the trail, which was on the road for the rest of the way.
The trail took a steep downhill towards the river and then crossed a strange cobbled bridge which sloped up to a ridge and down the other side. In town we had to stop and ask for directions a couple of times before finding a road which coincided with the map Cam had. The road climbed steadily for probably 8 km before reaching the Col de Santigosa at 1010m. The hard work of the climb was rewarded by a long downhill of perhaps 12 kms. We stopped part way down to admire the view into the valley. We knew that we had to turn off the main road to reach our destination. I was really enjoying the downhill, but did see a turn-off and fortunately decided to wait for the others about 300m past the road. Leila stopped with me. If we hadn't stopped, it would have added another 10 kms to the ride. The turn-off took us down a narrow, steep winding road past a number of very large haciendas. Soon after we were relieved to see the sign to our accommodation - Mars Garganta - even if the steep driveway was more suited to mountain bikes than to Birdys.

Mars Garganta is a very old attractive farmhouse sitting on the side of the hill, operating as a B&B. Parts of the original farmhouse remain, and date from 1350. Everything is old and rustic. In a room off the main entrance there is an old kitchen sink, old kitchen utensils, a large wooden table, a big open fireplace with curved high-backed wooden seats surrounding the fireplace. The timber on the seats is very worn with the carved sections barely recognisable. The flooring of the first floor in this old part of the building was huge slabs of timber, without tongue and groove, making it possible to look up through the gaps in sections. Our bedrooms were family suites in a newer section of the house. Being summer, meals are served on a huge open verandah overlooking the mountain ranges. We had arranged to have our evening meal at the house as well as breakfast. It was very relaxing sitting around the mealtable, looking over the hills and listening to the tinkle of the cow bells. On the way up the trail we had noticed that many of the cattle were wearing bells around their necks, making a very romantic continuous sound as even when they were lying down, they were shaking their heads to disturb the flies. This sound also put us to sleep and also wakened us in the mornings.

On Saturday it was overcast with bursts of drizzle. After a sumptuous breakfast on the balcony, enjoying the view through the arches, we lazed around until around midday in case it rained. With optimism we hopped on our bikes and rode the 7kms into Olot, along undulating rural roads and then on railtrail into town. There are a lot of old volcanoes in this area, so after lunch in the town square, we rode to the base of one of the volcanoes, and Sue minded the bikes while Leila, Cam and I climbed up to the rim, walking around the old monastery and inspecting the defense towers spaced around the rim. We headed home and stopped at a small cafe along the trail for a coffee, before having a look in the Parc de Pedra Tosca. This was an area of communal gardens, the small irregular sized and shaped plots being marked out by stone fences, and planted with different crops - beans, lavender, corn.
It was looking a little overcast when we went into the park, so we didn't stay very long- but we did stay too long as on the way home it started to thunder and then rain became progressively heavier. Sue was the only one with a raincoat, but even she was pretty wet when we arrived back at Mars Garganta. The lady of the house delighted us by offering to put our clothes into the drier.

Another good night's rest and an even more extensive breakfast, before heading into Olot. Leila has to go back to Barcelona tonight, so we had to arrange her bus trip. We thought that she could go at 4.30 to Girona and then catch the train to Barcelona, but found that this bus wouldn't take the bike, even though it was not fully booked and there was very little in the luggage compartments when it departed. At 7.30, an identical bus took Leila and the bike back to Ripoll to catch the last train for the day. With only 20 minutes between the ETA of the bus and the departure of the train, Cam was anxious about Leila's welfare, and we were all relieved some 1.5 hours later to receive a call from Leila to say that she had caught the train.
On the way back into town, we again visited the Parc to search out a hillock from which there was supposed to be good views over the area. We eventually found the hillock, after a bit of trailbashing, only to find that trees well and truly blocked any view that might have been had. We then set out to find a restaurant which had been recommended to us. We ended up on some dirt track with wet patches, and as I attempted to avoid the water, my front wheel did a right turn, throwing me down the embankment. It was a soft landing, but I came up a bit grubby, so when we arrived at the restaurant, to be greeted in the car park by an attendant in black pants, white shirt and vest, we wondered whether we would be acceptable clientele. No problem - we were shown where to put our bikes and shown into a large marquee, where we enjoyed lunch together.
After lunch, we rode around town to fill in time before the bus left. Being a Sunday, there was little traffic. The river El fluvia runs through the centre of town, so there was some pleasant paths to ride.
Back to Mars Garganta for another big evening meal, bed and up to another big breakfast before heading off for the 64 km ride to Girona. The trail today was rail trail, flat good surface out of Olot before a 3 km climb to the Col d'en Bas and then it was all downhill to Girona - apart from a couple of sections which bore no resemblance of a railway track and involved several short but steep downhills with steep rocky uphills, again far more suited to mountain bikes, but which I am pleased to say, didn't daunt the Birdys.
About 20 kms into the ride we pulled in to a small village, crossing the river on a quaint stone bridge, winding up narrow one-way streets to the square where we sat outside under the trees and enjoyed our coffees. On the way out of town, I stopped to take some photos on Leila's camera. I turned the corner to see a crowd of people around Sue who was picking herself up off the footpath. The wheel of her bike must have been parallel to a raised section of tarmac, and when she went to turn the wheel, the surface resisted and she lost her balance, hitting her head and shin on the way down. After dusting herself off and checking that nothing was broken, we headed out of town. It was a beautiful sunny day, the via verde was downhill, and even a short period of being lost and Sue's sore shin couldn't detract from a great day's ride. On arriving in Girona we located the station with minimal difficulty. Fortunately the train was running late, so we had time to buy our tickets and find the station, heading back to Barcelona with little delay.

The end of a wonderful week-end away with Cam and Leila.

July 6 Bilbao
After a good sleep and a pleasant, cheap coffee and croissant breakfast, we went to the station to book our seats on the day train to Barcelona for tomorrow. Cam became unofficial interpreter for a number of non-Spanish speaking tourists and the booking officers, and we had left the station before realising that we had not asked about the bikes, so back to the station to check this out. As bikes were not welcome on the day train we changed our booking to sleepers on the night train, with assurance from the booking officer that there would be plenty of room for the bikes and luggage under the bunks. Cam was again interpreting, and Iain put the camera down on the counter while signing the bank card slip. We left the booking office before Iain realised that he did not have the camera. We had only walked about 30 metres from the counter, but when we returned of course the camera was gone. It had not been handed in, and a quick check of the station precincts for someone selling a camera was unseccessful. This was a devastating loss. The 400 photo visual record of our tour in France was gone. Sue always keeps a detailed diary, but I had concentrated on the visual record, with many photos of the route and the wonderful things that we had seen, including many shots of the stone and wooden carvings adorning the houses and buildings that we had passed along the way. It took me many hours to settle down after this loss.
After another coffee, we headed off across town to visit the Googenheim Museum. The road out of Bilbao sweeps onto a bridge high above the river and overlooking the Museum. It is a spectacular sight. The vertical and square surfaces are made of stone and the huge curved surfaces of sheets of titanium. Inside, I found the most attractive section was the sculptures of Richard Serra. The largest space in the museum houses his huge steel structures, panels of 50mm steel 3.6m high, freestanding sweeping curves and spirals through which you can walk, experiencing varying sensations as the walls are not parallel or matching, so that sometimes the walls seem to close over you, and in other places open your view up to the roof. This description does his work no justice, so I suggest that you look it up on the internet. Sue also really enjoyed the surrealist exhibition, but it didn't do much for me. There were a couple of other interesting installations, one room with a couple of dozen male figures in different stances but with the same face, positioned in groups, amongst whom you could walk. In another room, the floor was of lino in a geometric pattern of yellow and black, designed to give the illusion of box shapes, with a brass strip across the room. I was blithely walking across the room looking around the blank walls when an attendant asked me not to walk on the brass strip as this was part of the installation. I somehow missed the point. I left Cam and Sue to the joys and wonders of modern art, and went for a walk, meeting up with them later.

July 7 Bilbao/ Bilbao to Barcelona
Our train didn't leave until 10.25 pm, so we had another day to look around Bilbao, leaving our luggage in the apartment of the owner of the pension we stayed at. After a fruitless check at the station to see if the camera had been handed in, it was off to the police station to file a lost/stolen report for the insurance company. The police were very polite and friendly, but even with Cam to do the talking, we spent over an hour getting the report made. The process must drive the police crazy.
Cam and I went for a ride on a finicula up to the top of the hills surrounding Bilbao and enjoyed almost a birds-eye view of the city and surrounding areas. Sue elected to stay at sea level and walked around the Guggenheim exterior and the river front until we returned. After some lunch, we bought a tram ticket and went for a ride to the end of the line and back, meeting a Swiss couple doing the same thing.
After dinner, we decided to go early to the station to pack up the bikes in a leisurely fashion and wait for the train, which we had been told was fully booked.

After a security check of ourselves and our luggage we found our carriage and carried the bags onto the train and along the narrow side passage to our cabin. The cabin was minimal size with 6 bunks providing only room for sleeping - no sitting up in bed and reading a book! As for storing the bikes under the bunks, there wasn't room for anything but very small bags. After some consideration of a sizeable dilemma, Cam and I removed the ladder and packed the bikes and bags behind the ladder and hoped that no one else was going to arrive to share the cabin. This feeling of apprehension was repeated each time the train stopped overnight. Although the train was full, no one arrived to fill our three vacant bunks. We suspect that the booking clerk somehow contrived to leave these bunks vacant in appreciation of Cam's assistance with interpreting.
We all slept well and arrived to the humidity of Barcelona at around 9.30 am. We then assembled the bikes, Cam got a 'bicing' (community bike) and we headed for Cam and Leila's apartment mostly along bike lanes.
We hadn't seen the apartment before, and despite it being only around 80 square metres in size, the fact that it is more square than rectangle, means that it is possible for four people to occupy the apartment without getting too much under each other's feet. The flat is bright and airy, with lovely patterned tiles. Of course, it is on the fourth floor with no lift, so we are back to climbing stairs.
After a shower and a change of clothes we headed into town to meet Leila for lunch. She is an architect, and starts work at around 10.30, has a lunch break from 2-4, and then works until 8 or 9pm. Consequently, dinner is very late, as is going to bed.

After lunch we headed for the Birdy dealer to try and get a replacement for the pin I had lost somewhere in France. The pin I fashioned out of a stick found on the ground at Cancale had lasted the distance - probably some 500 kms. As we were going to go for a weekend ride into the hills at the week-end, we were pleased when a replacement pin was available and able to be fitted without too much delay.

July 5 Irun to Miranda del Elba, Miranda del Elba to Bilbao to meet Cameron
Drizzling this morning, but fortunately it eased as we left to ride to the station. Station office staff indicated that we did not need to pack the bikes into the bags, but station staff advised otherwise, so we packed up before boarding the train to find very little baggage space. I left the bikes in the corridor as had been done on other trains. However, a very officious little ticket inspector attacked me in rapid French (fortunately, because it was very easy to appear dumb), before making me carry the bikes the length of the carriage to another storage area.
After a 3.5 hour journey we disembarked and had a 4 hour wait before our train on to Bilbao. Sue didn't favour the idea of unpacking the bikes and exploring the town, instead opting to read and guard our bags. Eventually, I did go for a walk into town - newer and not all that attractive.
The final leg of our journey to Bilbao took us into the Alps. We were surprised at the number of large industrial cities that we passed, with scores of high rise flats.
Arrived in Bilbao around 10 pm, having been unable to contact Cam to let him know of our later arrival time - he was expecting us to be there around 7 pm. We unpacked the bikes, loaded the panniers, and just a I was heading for an information map to try and locate our accommodation, we were greatly relieved to see Cam arrive. When he led us to the accommodation, I was even more thankful, as I would have had a lot of trouble finding the way. I was finding it difficult to stop thinking in French. Third floor rooms with community facilities, but clean and comfortable, and with an extra pair of hands to help with the carrying, not too bad a climb.

July 4 Train from Vannes to Irun
As we had some time before the train was due to leave, we decided to have a look around the town on the other side of the railway. A boring one hour walk, cut short because it looked as though it might rain.
Wheeled our loaded bikes across to the station and enquired whether we could transport them assembled with panniers attached. OK for the trips from Vannes to Nantes and Nantes to Bordeaux, but we would have to pack them up before boarding the fast train to Irun.
Train left from platform 2, and we were not allowed to cross the tracks via the walkway (as we had at Auray) but had to carry them downstairs to the tunnel and then back up the stairs to the station. Fortunately, on all our train journeys we found many Sir Gallahads willing to help to carry the bikes and to load them on the trains. The first train floor was the same height as the platform, so loading was easy. Leant the bikes against others and found our seats for the journey.
At Nantes we only had 19 minutes between trains, but left from the platform we arrived at, so no problems. Problems started when the train arrived - two narrow steep steps from the platform into the train, and then through a narrow door to access the bike storage area. I made the mistake of wheeling the bikes into the room - when we came to alight, the area was full of bikes and it was very difficult to turn them around, let alone trying to get out against the tide of passengers trying to move into the narrow passageway. Fortunately, help was readily available. The journey from Nantes to Bordeaux took 4.5 hours and was quite enjoyable, seeing the changing countryside. Much of it looked as though it would be easy riding, but not as interesting as Brittany and Normandy.
At Bordeaux we packed the bikes and panniers into their bags. We had a carriage number, but no allocated seats, as it was the start of the holiday season and bookings were heavy. When the train arrived it had umpteen carriages and we were sent in the wrong direction. Carrying two 18 kg and two 15 kg bags is no laughing matter. Afraid of missing the train, and exhausted from the long carry, we climbed aboard a first class carriage, to find that the end section of first class carriages, the section over the wheels, is second class. Put the bike bags into any spare space. Sue got a fold-down seat next to our luggage; Iain had to go a couple of carriages away to find a similar seat. Arrived at Irun, at the border between France and Spain at around 10 pm. After passing through the border check, we loaded our bags onto a trolley and went to look for a taxi to go to our hotel. Plenty of taxis, but no drivers. After a while we decided to unpack the bikes and walk the 2.5 kms to the hotel. Sue got a local to draw us a map of the route. At the first intersection, I took a turn in the right direction, but the wrong road. Asked a very pleasant couple, who told us how to get to the hotel. It was a very pleasant evening for a walk, but as our route took us into a very commercial area, with few people, we were relieved to find the hotel, just in time to get a light meal from the kitchen before they closed for the night. We were able to lock the loaded bikes in the conference room. Slept well, despite all the excitement.

July 2, 3 Vannes
Raining today. Our luck with the weather has been amazing - as I have mentioned before, everyday that it has rained we have been off he bikes. Walked in to the old town of Vannes, admiring the old half-timbered houses, many with wooden carvings on the main support posts of the house. At ground level, most of these properties are shops. Visited two museums, Chateau Gaillard (Museum of History & Archeology) and La Cohune (Museum of Fine Arts). Chateau Gaillard is in an urban mansion dating from the 15thC, still retaining the original layout. One room comprised beautifully painted panels depicting hermits and some of the saints. Wooden ceilings were also heavily carved. Collections of books, stuffed animals, birds eggs, ivory vessels, wooden and stone religious sculptures. La Cohune was not as impressive as the Chateau, but was well set out and contained some interesting prints and other works.
Museumed out, we bought a baguette to share and went into a bar for a coffee.
Spent some time in the huge centuries old Church of St Peter, admiring the furniture and artifacts, and thinking of the thousands of feet which have walked over the huge flat floor stones.
Walked around some of the newer parts of Vannes, eventually going back to the same restaurant as last night, the Macbal, for dinner.

Next day, after washing our clothes we headed back to the old city, taking a ride on the tourist train, which gave us a different perspective of the town, the commentary expanding our knowledge. After the ride we went back in to the gardens just outside the old town wall and looked at the wash houses along the river channel, built around 1820. Saw a couple of art exhibitions, before having lunch and returning to our hotel for a rest and to watch a bit of Wimbledon. TV was full of the news of the release of the French Columbian journalist, Ingrid Bidencourt, held captive by Columbian rebels for 7 years.
Dinner again at the Macbal, welcomed warmly by the owner and his wife, and given a free coffee to complete our meal. Food was good, atmosphere friendly - many locals dine there.

July1 Carnac to Auray 35kms
Last day of cycle touring today. After a shower and good breakfast we were ready to hit the road. I hadn't checked the road out yesterday, so with my great sense of direction headed out the wrong road. Saw a sign to where we wanted to go, but the road was closed due to road works, so it was back into town to start again. Fortunately we only travelled a couple of kms extra. The right road took us down to the beach road for a pleasant ride around the coast. The road became busier until we turned of to Locmariaquer to see more menhirs and dolmens. Visited and walked (stooped) into a couple of dolmens, and on the way out of town I detoured to view from the outside a huge dolmen. I caught up with Sue at the junction with the main road back to Auray. Again the traffic reduced the enjoyment, but apart from the last 4 kms, the road was easy. The last 4 kms contained a few hills to remind us at the end that cycle touring is not all easy.

Our riding ended at the Auray railway station. Almost 5 weeks and 1050 kms.

It has been a wonderful holiday, a good mix of riding and looking at the towns and villages we rode through, having coffees and relaxed lunches along the trail. On reflection 5 weeks has been a bit long for the amount of riding preparation that Sue was able to undertake and she has become fairly physically tired. She also has become a little sick of living out of panniers each day.
Next touring holiday we will probably select two or three places to use as a base and ride out to explore the surrounding countryside and then spend maybe a week on the road riding between base towns.

Although we have finished pedalling around France, I will continue the account of our travels in Spain and Croatia on the same blog.

We again were able to put the loaded bikes on the train for the short trip to Vannes, although this time we had to lift them up quite a height into a special carriage where they were locked. At Vannes we booked into a hotel just around from the station. We booked in for 3 nights before starting our train journey to Bilbao to meet son Cameron.

Although the owner is a bike rider, with a very nice carbon Colnago, he still charged us for parking our bikes in his secure storage area.

After tidying ourselves up we walked in to town to find the Information Centre, which is down on the waterfront. Used their internet to book in to an Ibis hotel in Irun - one of two reasonably priced hotels in Irun, although above what we would have liked to pay. On the way home we called in for dinner at a small restaurant recommended by our hotel manager, and enjoyed a very good, reasonably priced meal provided by a very personable owner and his cook wife who came out of the kitchen to greet us and shake our hand.

June 30 Lorient to Carnac
Breakfast this morning was served in the tiny, ordered back garden. Although it was a bit chilly, we enjoyed this start to our day.
This was going to another big day with over 40 kms of more hills and undulations, as well as riding on some more major roads to get out of town. To give leg-weary bodies a chance, and to give ourselves a more enjoyable day, we decided to take the train to Auray and then ride 20 kms to Carnac, giving ourselves plenty of time to look at the megaliths. Could take the assembled bikes on the train which was great.
Part of the ride was on a busy road, which was undulating, but with not too many challenging hills. Once off the main road the ride became much more enjoyable. Passed a couple of sites with a number of alignments of large rocks before coming to the Kermario Alignments in a field 1200 m long and 100 m wide with 1029 menhirs (large granite rocks) in 10 rows. Nearby was the largest menhir in the region - over 6 m high. As well as the menhirs, there are dolmens which are burial mounds built of huge slabs of rock and approached by a rock-walled and roofed tunnel. They were built by placing the wall rocks in place and then filling the area in with dirt before dragging the huge roof rocks into place, and then removing the infill soil to create the room. They all date back to at least 5000 years BC.
Arriving in Carnac, we booked into a cute, ancient inn, now a B&B, called 'Chez Nous', delighted to find that we had a ground floor room.
Visited the Museum, where we admired some skeletons which are around 6500 years old, then visited the ornate church of St Cornely, completed in 1657. Paintings, naves and altars everywhere, and beautiful stained glass windows and iron work.

June 29 Pont Aven to Lorient 47 kms
After a restless night, enjoyed a very wholesome breakfast to ready us for the road. Longer ride today, so wanted to be away reasonably early. Loaded the bikes out the front, to the amusement of some Italians touring on motor bikes, and went to pay the bill. Bank card wouldn't work. Off the an ATM - same result; tried another ATM with same result. Tried to ring the bank's emergency number to be told that they were closed until Monday. It was Sunday, of course, when these sort of things always happen. Rang another number for lost and stolen cards, this time actually getting to speak to a real person, who was very helpful. Could tell me that my card had been blocked because I hadn't made a payment -eventually realised that I hadn't changed my SMS security service number from my mobile to daughter Megan who was paying all our bills while we are away. Fortunately the emergency girl was able to re-activate our account, so that when I got back to the hotel our card was thankfully working again.
On the road at 10.30 for a 3 km steady and sometimes serious climb out of town. Despite the rolling terrain, we had some good downhill sections on this ride. At the only serious down and up shown on the map, we decided to stop at the bottom at a lake to have our banana sandwich lunch, and continued on, arriving in Lorient at around 2.30pm. Information office closed; found a hotel - closed until 5.30pm; another - closed until 6.30pm. Did not improve our impression of Lorient, which we found as not very attractive, despite being a harbour town. Fortunately the window of the Information office contained the name and phone number for a B&B where we were able to book in. Downstairs in a couple of rooms in a family house. Very comfortable and run by a very pleasant woman.
Walked the couple of kms into town for dinner and home again. Watched Spain defeat Germany in the World Cup Tournament and Venus Williams playing tennis before hitting the sack.

June 26 Scaer to Pont Aven 29 kms
Our map showed that the last section of the rail trail - 13 km to the town of Rosporden - was under construction. Fortunately our information was out of date and the trail was in quite good condition. As I had been predicting for several days, the trail did go downhill, although there were 3 kms of uphill first, but then it was a breeze and most enjoyable. From Rosporden we had to return to the road for 16 km, the first time that we had been on roads for quite a few days. The fact that most of the way was down compensated for both the few hills and also the traffic. We arrived in Pont Aven down a long, steep hill (me thinking 'we've got to get out of here in a day or two') into a very pretty riverside village and booked into a lovely hotel where our room overlooked the river harbour and the opposite hills. Very relaxing and refreshing. Decided to stay for three nights to relax and have a good look around the town.
Gaugin and his school of artists put Pont Aven on the map last century, and today there are around 46 artists with galleries in town - all styles, including those copying the styles and works o.f Gaugin and others. Sue found a gallery that had some beautiful sculptures of horses and bears - flowing easy lines - costing 15000 Euros plus.
When we asked to lady who runs the hotel for directions to a laundromat, she said she would wash our clothes for us - very kind and unexpected touch.
Dined at the next door creperie.

June 27 Pont Aven
After a bit of a slow start we visited the Museum to see an exhibition of the work of an artist called Signac, who painted in the area in the first half of the 19thC.
Had a light lunch at a small cafe in town and then Iain decided to rest and read while Sue headed off to explore the area. Her meanderings took her out of town and into the countryside and she was soon quite lost. Met a man and asked for her location on the map she had. He seemed to indicate that she should keep going the way she was to reach town. After walking for some time with no sign of Pont Aven she met another man who told her to go back the way she had come and turn left twice. Following his instuctions she did find herself back in town and the first person she met was this man. The second person she met was the first man she had asked for directions!
Had our worst meal of the trip at a local hotel restaurant.

June 28 Pont Aven
Raining this morning when we woke, but cleared during the morning. On checking our emails learnt that the 20 year old youngest son of one of our close friends had died last week. Had dinner, sat in chair and went to sleep and didn't wake up. Devastating news. Phoned our friend, but are really feeling the distance between us. Wandered around somewhat shell-shocked for the rest of the day.

June 24 Carhaix Plougher to Scaer 39 km
The road from town was downhill. At last we had an easy start to the day! Our celebrations were premature, as we soon encountered a couple of serious hills before arriving at the start of the trail. Then the trail kept the theme going for most of the ride. 20 km into the ride we stopped in the little village of Gourin and had a hot chocolate at the Boomerang Bar. Name seemed to be accidental, as the bartender didn't know anything about boomerangs and Australia. When his wife arrived she greeted everyone in the bar - a kiss for those she knew and a handshake for us.
After another 10 km of uphill we stopped by the side of the trail for our lunch of yoghurt and banana. Uphill for another few kms before the track levelled out and then actually descended in the township of Scaer or should I say to the road into the township - which of course was uphill. I tried a caravan camping ground at the bottom of the hill but found no one home but a note saying pitch your tent or park your caravan and we will settle the formalities later. We had no tent so the only option was head off up the hill. Information office closed.
Unfortunately, the accommodation book we had been given did not show any accommodation in town. I rang one of the B&B's listed to be told that they were 4 kms out of town in the wrong direction for us. I booked us in, then we looked for some food before tackling the undulating trip. Sue asked the lady if there were any B&B's in town to be told yes, just at the top of the hill. Relieved we went to the place which was in a beautiful garden setting. I cancelled the other B&B. and we settled in to the most extraordinary room with fake roman columns at the end of the bed. Bedside lamps and a couple of sculptures were glued to the bedside tables and stands. Despite the eclectic selection of decor, the room was spacious, and very clean.
Madame spoke no English, but her sister came and told us in French that we could use the kitchen area of the dining room to make ourselves some dinner. Off to the supermarket and home with cold chicken, tomatoes, capsicum and cheese, as well as chocolate mousse and a bottle of cider brut. Sue only had one glass of the cider. I finished the rest of the litre bottle and knew about it that night. Developed something of a head-ache.
Pleasant end to another hard day, so it was off to bed for a good night's rest. Again debated about staying another day for recuperation, but decided against it as we didn't want to limit the time we had at Port Aven or have to cut the trip short in order to meet Cam in Bilbao.

June 24 Gouarec to Carhaix-Plougher 45 km
It would have been good to stop another day at this peaceful park, but we were running out of spare days if we are going to complete our planned journey to Vannes and on to meet Cam in Bilbao in early July. Walked down to the Boulangerie to buy some pastries and take them into the bar to have with some delicious hot chocolate.
We headed out of town and uphill to the rail trail, as we had been advised to take the rail trail to Rostren to visit the market and then take the canal path for the rest of the way. The rail trail was very undulating. Mark and Anne, the South African pastors, caught up to us, just as we passed a brightly coloured snake on the trail. Sunning itself and not threatening at all. Rode into town with them, with Mark showing us the way to exit town and find the canal path. Had a relaxing coffee with them beside the market. Talked with an English trio, probably in their 70's - woman and two men, who have pooled their pensions to buy a place in Rostrenen. In winter they rent a house in Portugal. She was pushing a pram containing two pekinese dogs. Real characters - could have chosen to stay in England and end up in a nursing home waiting for the kids to work out a way to get their money, so they decided to get up and go. The woman had just had a knee replacement and was using the pram instead of a walking frame. They and the other English people we met, including the fast food woman and her young teenage family, all lamented the decline in quality of life in England, the increasing violence and lack of respect. The French children are certainly polite and courteous, as were the fast food children.
Riding out of town it was up and down some steep hills as we headed for the canal path. Much further than I anticipated but we kept heading downwards as we figured that would be where the canal would be - eventually proving this theory correct.
The canal path was quite pretty, but proved a much longer route than anticipated, and much harder to follow on the map. I eventually found some people I could ask for reassurance that we were on the right path. Towards the end there were some wet and sloppy parts and others more rocky. I was relieved to reach the town of Carhaix-Plougher, even if it required negotiating several more hills an traffic on the 4 km ride into town.
I left Sue while I headed off following signs to the Tourist Information office. Eventually found it
and was surprised to see Sue walking towards me - I had followed signs right around the block to find the Tourist office at the point from which I started the search. They have just moved and were awaiting new street signage! This frustration at the end of the day was compensated for by a very helpful woman who gave me a lot of information about the trail ahead, as well as other riding options, as well as advice as to hotels. Booked in to the nearest hotel, bikes stored in the manager/barman/dogsbod's office, while we carried our bags up the narrow staircase to the second floor.

June 23 Loudeac to Gouarec 44 km
Fine weather and some beautiful views over the surrounding countryside as we gradually climbed higher. Crops, hedges, farm houses and buildings, hills and valleys, viewed from a quiet shady trail. Called in to the town of Mer de Bretagne for a coffee at a small bar. It doesn't seem to matter how early we go into these small bars, there are always a few older local men sitting on stools having a drink - mostly wine or beer, but sometimes a short black. Then in to a large supermarket to stock up on all sorts of goodies for the trail.
Back on the trail we met a young french couple on a tandem reading their map. They were riding from Brest to Nantes along a canal path, from which they had to make a short diversion. They told us that soon we would have the option of rail trail or canal path to Carhaix Plougher, which is the end of this trail.
Further up the trail, well into horse country, and we found a seat where we stopped to have lunch - another banana placed carefully into a baguette and sprinkled with sugar. The seat was fortuitous, as I noticed that a pin in the rear suspension of Sue's bike had started to come out. My trusty mini-tool and a rock soon rectified the matter and we were on our way.
A diversion occurred in the rail trail, taking us down to a gorgeous stop called Bon Repos. Had coffee at a small cafe overlooking a river and the ancient Abbaye de Bon-Repos, built in 1184.
From here we followed a very pretty canal path - shared with walkers, other cyclists, canoeists on the canal, water lilies along the banks - all this and sunshine.
5 km and we arrived in Gouarec and found the station hostel, but no one around. When we found people they weren't very helpful. A woman arrived and went into the station - but looked particularly unfriendly. After a while we went in to be met with a torrent of unpleasantness. She had lost money because of us and wasn't prepared to give us a bed tonight. As the book we had did not mention any other accommodation in the town (the only hotel had closed) this was a cause for concern until she told us to go down to the caravan park and see 'David'. We did and found a very helpful Englishman who rented us a caravan. We had our silk sleeping bag sheets with us so he said he would help out with blankets, even though they didn't usually supply linen.
Tonight a fast food van was going to trial visits to the park for the summer period, so we thought that we would support them - an English woman who is trying to educate the French to the delights of English fast food!
After dinner had a chat with David, his wife and some other park residents, including a couple who are Assemblies of God pastors in England. Also met another very pleasant English couple who regularly travel around France in their motor home. Exchanged email addresses with them and retired for a very good sleep in the quiet of the park, which was on an island in the middle of the canal/river.

June 22 Loudeac
Not much to see around town. Everything was shut as it is Sunday. Rang the children and did the washing and generally relaxed.
In the evening we struggled to find any restaurants open, eventually coming upon a creperie where we had an enjoyable meal.
We had booked in to a hostel in the closed railway station at our next stop of Goureac, so this morning had to phone and leave a message that Sue was not well so we would not be arriving until Monday.

June 21 St Meen le Grand to Loudeac 54 km
This was the start of around 200 km of rail trail. It is very pleasant being able to ride side by side and enjoy the countryside without worrying about traffic. Although there were no steep inclines, about half of today's ride was uphill, and Sue was very weary when we arrived in the very unattractive industrial town of Loudeac. Information centre closed, so we booked in to the most attractive hotel, Les Voyageurs. Showered and walked around the town, but not much to see.
Despite this, we decided to stay an extra day to give Sue's body a chance to recover - a change of seat angle wasn't a very smart move, even for a reasonable short time.

June 20 Dinan to St Meen le Grand 52 km
Helpful young woman at the information centre in Dinan gave us a brochure of the Route Verte - rail trails in the region, so we are heading off-road today. Headed under the town wall on the cobbled road and lost the map. At the bottom of the steep hill I also lost the way. Went in to a bar for assistance to be met by a very frosty reception and no help. A more helpful man pointed us in the right direction, into the beautiful, picture book township of Lehon. Would have liked to have a better look around the town, but the trail beckoned - if only I could find the start. Asked a fellow working in his garden, who called his daughter to assist, as she could speak English better than I could obviously speak French. Actually, I think that father was just wanting to show us how clever his daughter is - she had been in Sydney for 6 months working as an au pair. Nice girl who walked us to the start of the trail.
Easy riding alongside the river for about 8 kms which was followed by about 3 kms of country road, much of it uphill, to the small town of Trevron, where we located the rail trail. The trail was shady and pleasant, but Sue's legs were having a holiday today. Around 1 pm we headed off the trail into a small township called Plouasne, which seemed somewhat depressed. Had a coffee at a small, unusually unclean bar attached to a bakery. As we were having our coffee, the owner came over and presented us with 4 small pastries as a gift.
Another 4 km and the rail trail ended so it was back on to the road for the last kms into St Grand where we booked in to Les Trois Pliers, in the centre of town, which was very basic - furnished cheaply, the carpet doesn't fit, the bathroom is huge but the bath has no plug. However he beds are clean and the shower was good, and the hotelier is very pleasant.
Our walk around the street revealed lots of houses of dark stone in a mixture of styles, and a strange little war memorial church filled with memorial stones of the fallen.
The town hall was an amazing building, like a wedding cake, with towers, spires, chimneys.

June 19 Dinan
It's amazing - another rest day - another wet day.
Market day today, so we walked through on our way to look for a laundromat, which we found and used. Bought a sausage in a galette in the market for lunch and some bananas for tomorrow's travels.
Went to the Castle Museum which was part of the remaining town ramparts. Saw an exhibition of Marc Gousse and admired the wooden sculptures and a carved diptych which told the story of the beheading of some 15thC saint in graphic detail. Also saw a small carving of ivory of an angel with its foot on a skull.
Wandered around looking for the way onto the old town wall, but there is only a small section you can actually walk on. Found a printmaker's shop and Sue had a long chat with his wife who spoke quite good English.
We also went for a walk down the narrow winding cobbled street with its quaint old houses and shops to the port of Dinan on the Rance River we had followed to town .
Tried whelks and winkles for dinner, but wouldn't bother again as the little bleeders are very hard to find and extract from their tiny shells. As last night, before dinner we were given a small salmon tart, and after the meal a small glass of calvados and some tiny fruit tarts. A nice touch.

June 18 St Malo to Dinan 32 km
On the way out of St Malo we had to negotiate the main road across the mouth of the Rance River. The road goes across the wall of a dam with turbines which generate electricity using the sea tides. Traffic very heavy. On the other side a tractor with trailer somehow managed to graze Sue's front pannier. Fortunately she was able to land on her feet, but she was badly shaken. We still had about 2 km on this road and then had to cross 2 lanes of traffic to turn onto a quieter road to Dinan. Soon after the turn-off we stopped in a small town to enable Sue to regain her composure and to have a coffee.
The road today was again undulating to hilly, but the scenery was pretty as we followed the river valley down (?) to Dinan.
Dinan is one of, if not the, oldest walled cities in Brittany. we booked in to La Duchesse Anne, given a room in the new wing which was built in 1762!
Our walk around town took us through narrow streets with very old houses which go at all angles, quite a few a long way off vertical, but still standing firm. Saint Sauveur's Basilica is a very old and ornate building, whilst the St Malo's Church has stunning stained glass windows.
Staying in Dinan for a rest day tomorrow and have a better look around at this old town.

June 17 Cancale to St Malo 26 km
Arose to a huge breakast prepared by Fabian - juice, yoghurts, cakes, croissants, a heavy custard cake with prunes, bread, home-made jams, and tea.
Another beautiful day. On the way of town we rode around to Pointe de Grouin, which gave spectacular views along the coastline and over some small rocky islands which are rookeries for some of the local sea birds.
Road is undulating but with a number of short but sharp rises. Just before St Malo we detoured at Rotheneuf to see the Rochers Sculptures, carved in the rock rising from the sea by a disfigured deaf mute monk over a period of 25 years from 1870. Interesting.
Then in to St Malo to our hotel just inside the walls of the old city. After freshening up we walked around the walled city and around the ramparts, looking down on the beaches, bay and docks - housing many large yachts as well as being the stop for ferries.
Next stop was Dinan so asked for accommodation details at the information office. Selected a hotel and booked by phone. During the evening I noticed that I had information for Dinard, just across the harbour, necessitating another phone call to cancel the bookings.

June 16 Mont St Michel to Cancale 49 km
Soon after leaving Mont St Michel we crossed the border from Normandy into Brittany. It was a beautiful sunny day, little wind, and apart from the last 4 or 5 km, flat. We passed or were passed by a number of fishing 'ducks' - fishing boats on wheels which drove straight into the water. All with cranes to load their catch of fish or mussels. Mussel and oyster farms are evident all along this coastline.
Had to climb a few hills before dropping down into the beautiful fishing and holiday village of Cancale. Had a meal of mussels at an outdoor cafe on the bay. This is what life is all about! The street along the harbour is lined with restaurants and hotels.
Through the bikes we met a Dutch couple who spoke good English. Frieda had lived for 8 years in NZ and 3 in Australia as a child, so she had quite an interesting accent. Exchanged email addresses. They may be coming to NZ next year and will consider visiting on the way home.
We chose to stay at a B&B about 2.5 km out of town. Downside was that we had to climb the steep hill up to the township. Great B&B in a converted farm building. Hostess Fabian was very welcoming.
After a good rest, we rode the unloaded bikes back down to the harbour for dinner, which included our now regular bottle of local cider.

June 15 Mont Saint Michel
Awoke to steady rain, which looked set in for the day, so we opted to take a bus.
The Abbey, soaring skyward atop the small granite outcrop, 2 km into the bay (apart from the current above-sea-level causeway) is quite spectacular. Thought to date back to 708. It became a focus of pilgrimage. In the 10thC the Benedictines settled in the abbey while a village grew up below its walls, eventually extending to the foot of the rock. It was an impregnable stronghold. During the French Revolution the religious community was removed and it became a prison until 1863. The achievement of building this huge structure at the top of this steep rocky outcrop is awe-inspiring. The huge span of the high ceiling; the high windows; the network of worship areas and chapels; the refectory with its huge tables where the monks took their meals, the guests' hall immediately below; the monks' rooms; the enormous wheel which was used to hoist supplies up a steeply angled 'slide'.
The steep cobbled road from the bottom of the mount up to the abbey now houses hotels and shops aimed squarely at the tourist trade.
As the rain had stopped we walked home across the causeway.

June 14 Avranches to Mont St Michel 26km
As it was a short ride again today, we stayed in town to see an exhibition of Chagall's religious paintings at the Scriptorial, which opened at 10 am. Iain went looking for access to part of the old town ramparts. Sue had better luck, finding a 20€ note and a great little local market. Some old women were obviously selling vegetables grown in the back yard as they only had small quantities displayed on card tables.
After Chagall we called in to the Museum where Sue enjoyed the work of an artist called Henri Marret with works from the early 1900s to the 1960s.
Had a coffee before collecting the bikes and heading out of town by the flatter route, according to the woman in the information centre. She certainly wasn't riding a loaded bike, as the road out was quite steep, with heavy traffic. However, we were then rewarded with a downhill to the coast, and more minor roads with little traffic. Apart from a headwind, which became stronger, it was a pleasant ride. Stopped for lunch at a little restaurant in the tiny village of Bas Coursil. We then rejoined the major road, with traffic becoming heavier as we approached Mont St Michel - an increasing number of tourist buses. The views across the water of Mont St Michel rising out of the sea was arresting.
As we were unsure of the options on the Mount itself, we opted for accommodation at the start of the causeway, about 2 km from the mount.
Did the washing and generally lazed around for the rest of the day - staying in a cabin in a caravan park.

June 13 Villedieu les Poeles to Avranches 23.5 km
There is nothing pleasant about riding uphill on cold legs, and this morning, within a km of the town centre we struck a corker. Walking the steepest bit was the most sensible thing, so we did. The road today was a fairly busy one with its fair share of hills. Saw a toilet sign in a small town, but couldn't find the toilet. On enquiring, we discovered that it was almost a km away in the next town! Another steady steep heavily trafficked climb into Avranches, arriving late morning after our 8.30 am start. Sitting down to a coffee when it started to rain quite heavily. Noticed that there was a hotel attached to the bar, so booked in. Bikes had to stay in a courtyard at the back which served a couple of businesses. Accessed via a door on the street, so felt he bikes would be reasonably secure.
Visited the Basilique St Gervais in which there was a locked glassed room full of religious treasures, the oddest being a human skull, in an ornate gold cabinet, with a hole in the skull, reputedly caused when an angel laid her finger on the saint's head.
Then went to the Scriptorial d'Avranches to see the ancient manuscripts of Mont St Michel, beautifully preserved, the oldest dating to 10th C.
Later went for a walk through the cobbled streets and onto the castle ramparts, which gave a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside.

June 12 Villedieu les Poeles
Another rest day, some more rain! Only lasted a few hours. My coffee this morning was delivered in a large cereal bowl!
Had an interesting visit to the Fonderie de Cloches, the oldest bell foundry in France. As the only English speaking tourists, we had our personal guide to show us around and explain the process of making the bells - huge bells using traditional methods, although now also using a block and tackle to help move the bells. The mold is made from a mixture of manure, mud and goats hair.
A visit to the museum of Normandy furniture followed, some of the furniture dating back to the 13thC. Rooms were set up as replicas of a 17thC Normandy house. Beautiful, intricate carving on many of the pieces.
In the narrow streets we found another small museum which had a collection of old copper pots and utensils as well as a lace display. The young attendant gave us a demonstration of lace-making - a painfully slow process. Then on to the Atelier du Cuiure to see he coppersmiths at work. Villedieu was known as the town of the deaf, and it was interesting to note that he coppersmiths were not wearing earmuffs. I asked about this and was advised that they are supplied to the workers, but they prefer not to use them as they need to hear the sound of the copper as it is beaten to make the best products - so the modern workers also go deaf.
Iain had local sausage and gizzards with salad which he found quite tasty. The English translation on the menu described the item as gizzards and guts - too intriguing not to try them.

June 11 St Lo to Villedieu-les-Poeles 43 kms
Since leaving Bayeux we are heading south to south-west towards Mont St Michel. Today was more south, the first 20 km being along an undulating busy road. We stopped at the small village of Villebaudon for a coffee in a little bar. The owner told us that the town had been almost completely destroyed during the war. The town is built on the top of a hill and commands quite a view over the surrounding countryside. The church tower was used by the British as a look-out.
From here we took to the back roads. Hillier, but easier to take with the small amount of motor traffic. We tootled along, walking up the steeper hills, enjoying the countryside and the beautiful stone farm buildings, the tidy towns and houses with their colourful flower boxes.
Arrived in the pretty town of Villedieu. Finding a hotel, having a bath and a look around the town, we decided to stay for two days to have a look at the copper utensil factory and the bell foundry.

Weather has been great, with only a few days when the sun was very hot and we applied the sunscreen. We have also been fascinated by the number of hedges, both in the towns and around the farm paddocks. A lot of time and effort is required to maintain these hedges.
We are now moving into 'horse country'. Have seen one Breton horse stud with their stocky local horses. Moving into more thoroughbred country and have seen from the outside some large 'national' stables. Churches and church bells are also a feature of all towns, with bells ringing out the quarter hour.

June 10 Bayeux to St Lo 44 kms
What a day! Sue kept asking me what the date was, to which I replied that I had no idea. So focussed on the road ahead was I that it took some very heavy hints to remind me that it was June 10, Sue's 65th birthday! Won't Sue dine out on this story! She celebrated her birthday by riding up all the hills and hitting 40 kph on a downhill!
We called in to the town of Cerisy-la-Foret to see the work of a group of international scupltors who were working on their pieces from June 7-21. Too early to appreciate the works but plenty of dust and noise. Walked around a pretty lake and viewed sculptures from past competitions and also visited the Abbaye de Cerisy, a romanesque-style church dating from the 11th C. Given a guided tour by a student who loved the buildings. Saw the Justice Room where the Bishop held court and administered justice, as well as the cellars and a small cell for prisoners. There are also a series of underground tunnels created as a means of escape for the monks if they were under attack. In the nave of the church we saw some beautiful oak seats built in the 13thC, the invoice for which is still in existence. Also viewed some 13thC manuscripts and music sheets. A most enjoyable stop.
The first 25 kms from Bayeux was along pretty country roads without any serious hills, but this all changed after Cerisy. The hills became more frequent, the traffic heavier, and the temperature rising to 26. St Lo seemed to be a series of hills, which was compounded by the fact that we had trouble locating the 'Best Hotel' where Iain had reserved a room. Took us about 2 hours of asking for directions and riding up and down hills before we found the hotel, which was modern, basic, but better than the one at Ifs. I gave Sue's weary body a massage and then took her out to dinner at Buffalo Grills to celebrate her birthday. Fast food, and a friendly African waitress. Fortunately Sue's spare ribs were tender and tasty. My buffalo steak was the toughest meat I have had for years.

June 9 Bayeux - D-Day Beaches - Bayeux 35 kms
First stop was at a small Commonwealth Cemetery with only 1000 graves - 650 Commonwealth and 350 German. So many young lives lost. Towards the end of the war the Germans were recruiting 16 year olds. All the cemeteries and war memorials are beautifully looked after and respected by the locals.
Rode on to Arromanches and saw the huge floating harbour towed over in sections from Britain to assist in the Allied landing. Something like 500,000 men, 300,000 vehicles, 3 million tons of supplies landed here over a few days.
On the way back to Bayeux we had a look at some cliff-top batteries at Le Chaos.
We had intended to do the full D-Day Beaches tour, but were so emotionally affected by the little we had seen that we felt that we could not cope with the huge American cemetery at Omaha Beach.
Back in town, we did our washing, had dinner and an early night in preparation for hitting the road once more.

June 8 Bayeux
Phoned the children, to check on their well-being and then to see an exhibition of Bayeux porcelain at the Musee Baron Gerard, and to inspect a modern tapestry done by 243 people in Zeeland, a province of the Netherlands. Titled 'Made by Us', the tapestry is 126 metres long and 45 cm high. Underneath each panel there is an explanation of why the artist selected their particular embroidered images. Also visited the cathedral, parts of which are 1000 years old. Splendid stained glass and carved images.
Shared conversation at dinner with a couple from Mt Martha! A relief to be able to relax and talk English - although I must admit that I am enjoying the challenge of communicating in French, which is becoming slightly easier.

June 7 Bayeux
Breakfast was enjoyable when we retrieved Sue's bag from the dining room - safely put away by the staff.
Yesterday was D-Day memorial, so there were many celebrations taking place. We went to the Musee Memorial de la Bataille de Normandie, on the way inspecting the WWII camp set up with army tents, motor bikes, trucks, jeeps, tanks, staffed by people in WWII uniforms. The Museum contained an incredible record of the battles which raged for such a short period of time - 10,000 allies killed in 11 days of fighting. Still photos and a movie of film taken during the fighting was extremely graphic and disturbing. The destruction wreaked by both the Allies and the Germans was unbelievable. Ancient buildings, treasures, paintings, houses all destroyed. Emotionally drained, we walked across the road to the British Military Cemetery, with hundreds of white gravestones the same size, with different emblems and epitaphs - many for unknown servicemen.
After lunch we had a look at the Bayeux Tapestry - 70 metres long, graphically describing the war between Harold and William the Conqueror - and almost 1000 years old.

June 6 Ifs to Bayeux 46 kms
Before heading out of town to retrace the last 5 kms of yesterday's ride, we called in at a market to buy some fruit. Yesterday's downhill had become today's first uphill - the first of many for the day. Skirted The city of Caen and kept to minor roads all the way to Bayeux. Stopped at the small village of Tourville for coffee at a bar, then bought a baguette and some pastries to eat with our bananas for lunch. Rode a few kms to another small town, Cheux, where we stopped by some old spring-fed covered sunken communal baths to have our lunch. A little further on we stopped in the village of Cristot and went into the old church. In the entrance there were two lovely carved tablets dedicated to the British soldiers who fought for the liberation of Cristot during WWII. Very moving.
Arrived in Bayeux about 3.30. Iain had booked a hotel on the phone, but we were concerned that the cost was 90€ per night, no 63€ as per the brochure. Called in to the information centre and asked them to check it out. Turned out that the only room left was a family room. Cancelled that booking and checked in to La Reine Mathilde in the centre of town.
A wonderful coffee, a walk around town, and a meal at the hotel finished off the day for us - or so we thought. Just about to get into bed when Sue missed her red shoulder bag, containing 100€. Dressed and down to the coffee shop - no luck. Back to the hotel dining room to find it locked for the night. To bed for a somewhat disturbed sleep.

June 5 Beuvron-en-Auge to Ifs 51 km
Weather again fine. After our visit to the Boulangerie to buy lunch we rode an easy 7 km down the D49 and D16 and onto the busier D613 for 3 km to he town of Crevecoeur where we visited a restored medieval village which has been established by the Schlumberger family. Buildings included the gatekeeper's lodge, dovecote, Lord's residence, and chapel, the latter dating to the 12thC, the others being 15th and 16th C, as well as the farm and orchard. A sideboard in the Lord's residence was in beautiful condition and was over 400 years old.
Back on the bikes we headed off onto minor roads which were undulating to hilly. Passed many old, large, stone farm houses and buildings, varying in condition from superb to falling down.
All along the way so far the land seems rich and productive. Crops have been even and lush - wheat, barley, corn are the most common. If asked of my impression of France so far, I would say 'green' of a variety of shades. The only splashes of colour are the flower boxes in the villages.
Saw some wind turbines today.
I would have preferred to limit today's ride to around 40 km, but there were no villages with accommodation, so had to continue another 10 undulating kms to the suburb of Ifs, on the outskirts of Caen.
Couldn't find any tourist office, but I had the names of three hotels which we couldn't find. Saw some large signs to the Hotel de Ville, so set out to find this hotel. When we found it, next to the university, I was a bit puzzled when I saw that the hours were 0800 - 1730 - strange for a hotel. Went inside and joined the queue; said to the lady at the desk that I wanted a bed for the night. She looked at me and asked again what I wanted. The penny clicked and she said to me 'You are a funny man'. We were at the town hall! She gave me a map, but no help with directions. Fortunately as we were trying to work out where we were and where we wanted to go, a woman who had been behind me and heard the exchange came out and spoke to us in English, which was a great help. We eventually got the last room, on the third floor of a Formula 1 type hotel on the edge of Ifs, with no lift, so had to carry our bags and bikes up the stairs and fit us and the bikes into our tiny family room. However, the showers were hot, the room clean, the bed comfortable and we had a good meal of steak, washed down with a bottle of cider, before retiring.
Sue is getting stronger on the bike and managing to ride up most hills now, which is very satisfying for her.

June 1 St Georges de Vievre to Honfleur 54 km
After breakfast at the hotel we left at 9 am, buying bread and pastries for lunch, we headed out of town along the D137. A little uphill, then an easy ride of 18 km with little traffic to Cormeilles, quite large town with traditional Normandy houses lining the streets. The town was quite busy, with many shops open, despite it being Sunday. After a short break and half an apple each, I asked for directions. My first assistant was pushed aside by a couple who ride in the area. They advised that the route I had chosen would be too busy, and suggested that we take a more scenic route, more hilly with a short 14% climb, but very pretty. We took their advice, and soon found out that it was more steep hills than we had bargained for, including the 14% hill was quite a challenge with the loaded bikes. However road had little traffic, scenery was spectacular, with large farm houses, often behind large stone fences, with house and sheds surrounding an open courtyard. I love these places - they seem well established and organised.
Had lunch on the side of the road and then joined a more major road for the remaining 20 km into Honfleur. After a 3 km climb the road flattened out, and with a tailwind we sailed into town to look for accommodation. Chose a B&B which claimed to be 800 m from the town centre. Turned out to be more like 800 m from the edge of town. We took it as we were too tired to go back to town and start looking again. Booked in for 3 nights to have a break and a good look around this picturesque old port town. I was very pleased that I had been able to book the room on the phone in French. After a shower and a rest we walked the 2 km into town for a meal. Plenty of tourists in town.

June 2 Honfleur
Walked down to the house for a breakfast of cereal, juice, bread, toast,pastries and coffee set up by Mme Bouet in her neat-as-a-pin but sterile house. On arrival she asked us to take off our shoes before entering her house or the unit we stay in.
Carried our laundry with us into town to the laundromat - can last about 3 days between washes. Met 2 girls, American and Canadian, who gave us some washing liquid. Sue didn't notice that it was concentrated. Consequently the machine generated so many suds that they oozed out of the door of the machine. It seemed like a scene out of a movie in which we were going to be forced to evacuate because of the rising sud level.
After lunch we visited St Catherines church, rebuilt of local timber by the local shipbuilders in the !5th C after being destroyed by the British. Opposite the church is the wooden belltower, built above the bell ringer's house. Walked around the narrow streets admiring the 2/3/4 storied houses built of timber frames with mud or brick inlays. Visited the Musee of Eugene Boudin which housed some fine (Sue's assessment) pre-impressionist and some more contemporary art as well as a large collection of Normandy ethnography - headware, dress, dolls, furniture, china, & glassware.
Also called in to the Information centre and got the girls to book us a room at our next stop - Beuvron-en-Auge - which according to Lonely Planet has only a few rooms available.
Home for a rest before walking a short distance to a local hotel for a meal. Some rain today.

June 3 Honfleur
Raining today. On the way to Honfleur I lost a screw from my rear rack. Unfortunately the nearest bike shop was 15 kms away. Had intended to ride, but as it was wet I took the bus. Some consternation when I arrived at the bikeshop to find it shut on Tuesdays. Fortunately found another shop which sold motor scooters and a few bicycles and was able to get the screw needed and head back to Honfleur and met Sue at about 12.30. She had been busy visiting the Maritime Museum and the House of Ethnography which she really enjoyed. The latter was housed in a former prison, two cells with chains used to hold the prisoners on their bare-board beds, the other rooms set up as a Norman house. Wonderful examples of beaurifull pottery, glass and china, ribons, beads, toothbrushes.
Still raining. Found a lovely little cafe which served very good food and then walked back to the B&B in heavy rain, arriving with pants and shoes soaked. A hot bath fixed us up, but it took some time to dry the clothes and shoes.
Bread and banana, a couple of pastries and a glass of water comprised our evening meal, before we collapsed into bed at around 9.30 pm. This travelling business is exhausting!

June 4 Honfleur to Beuvron-en-Auge 46 km
No rain this morning and patches of blue in the sky.
Lonely Planet's 'Cycle France' describes today's ride as a 'gentle cycle along the coast and then through undulating pastoral areas of the Pays d'Auge. Sue disagrees vigorously with this description. In fact their were many 'lumps' along the coast, most of which were steep enough to knock the speed off our loaded bikes. Sue walked a few of the steeper climbs, but had the opportunity to look back over the coastline and enjoy the scenery. Weather quite sunny.
Called in to Trouville sur Mer and visited our first local market. Big market and fantastic produce. Fish, fruit, meat, cheeses, vegetables,cakes, cooked meals. Clothes stalls as well. Bought some cheese and strawberries for lunch. Had a coffee and bought pastries before heading for more hills.
As hunger was indicating the need for a lunch stop we came upon a small lake used for fishing. A charge is levied, seats are spaced around the lake and several old fishermen were arriving. There was a small kiosk and a toilet, which pleased us. (Public toilets are hard to find around France. OK for the men - they just seem to use any convenient wall or tree, regardless of whether it is the middle of town in the middle of the day. Consequently the smell of urine is quite common along the streets - as is 'doggie doos' which make it difficult to look at the towns and watch where you are walking at the same time.) Sat at a table in the shade, watched the fishermen, and enjoyed our beautiful strawberries and cheese lunch.
After lunch headed off for the last kms into the village, including the steep hill Lonely Planet did mention. Eventually arrived in 'one of the loveliest old villages in France'. It lived up to its reputation - well preserved old houses, numerous flower boxes full of colourful geraniums,lobelia and impatience. Our hotel, the Aux trois Demoiselles, was also lovely, with large oak beams and timber floor. The bathroom was slightly incongruous, being a self-contained moulded fibreglass unit including shower, handbasin and toilet.
The town boasted two michelin-starred restaurants but we lacked the attire to try their food. Went to the small creperie where Iain enjoyed a dish of tripe - very rich - while Sue had a herb and chees omelette. After dinner we wandered around the small village, admiring the houses and noting how the stream is literally at the back door of many houses and actually passed under the yard of our hotel. One house had a bridge between the house and their garden.

May 28 Last day in Paris.
Up early and on to the bike to check out the location of a bikeshop and the route to the railway station for tomorrow. Used the bikeshop's floor pump to put plenty of air into the tyres. Bikes away and onto the metro to see the Champs Elysee and the Arc de Triomphe, but didn't tackle the stairs up the Arc. Huge and impressive. After a shared sandwich it was off to the Pompidou Centre to see some modern art - Sue enjoyed this visit more than I did. Returned home exhausted for an hour or so's rest before heading out to a local Bistro recommended by our landlord. Good food very reasonably priced.

May 29 Paris to Vernon.
Another early start to pack the bikes for a 7 am start for the Gare St Lazarre. Traffic was very light at this time of day so we had an uneventful ride to the station where we packed up the bikes before boarding the train for the hour ride to Vernon. Reassembled the bikes as we could walk directly off the station onto the road. After a lengthy conversation with some locals in a bar, comprising my limited french and many handsignals, we discovered that we were on the wrong side of the railway and would have to go back to the station, down the stairs under the railway lines and up the stairs on the other side. Carrying 45 kgs of bikes and panniers down and up the stairs was not the best way to start the day. However, after this it was simple to find the hotel which we had pre-booked. After off-loading the panniers, and having a coffee which only cost €2.50, we headed off for the 5 km ride to Giverny to see Monet's Gardens.

The weather was fine, the path flat, and Monet's gardens beautiful. The water lily pond was quite large and very pretty with its Japanes-style bridges crossing it at various places. Gardens planned, but not formal - and a blaze of colour. Monet's house was very quaint and well preserved. Being a week day the crowds were manageable.

Rode back to Vernon and after booking into our room, walked around the town admiring the old houses, many of which are around 700 years old. Our hotel was also pretty olde worldy. Had dinner in the dining room - white linen table cloths and napkins, flowers, stuffed animals and birds adorning the walls, exposed beams and paintings all combined to make a very welcoming atmosphere. Food also was very good.

May 30 The ride starts in earnest.
Using the excellent Michelin 1 cm= 2 km maps we headed out of town on a fairly busy road with what seemed to be the obligatory uphill climb to start the day. After about 7 kms, including a couple of kms or more peaceful tractor path, we turned off onto a more minor D road with less traffic and the first of many many small pretty villages. Enjoyed seeing our first traditional half timbered Normandy houses, many built at the edge of rivers, sometimes over the edge of the river. The ride followed the river valley through farmland and villages. Made the mistake today of not stocking up with food, expecting to find shops in the small villages, only to find that many villages were only a collection of houses with no shops. Found the first shops about 5 kms from the end of our days ride. Enjoyed a very welcome roll and drink in park before continuing on to the town of Louviers to look for accommodation. Ended up at a more up-market and expensive hotel than we would have liked, but them's the breaks when you don't book ahead.

45 kms for the day. Planning to ride around 40 kms a day to allow us plenty of time to stop along the way and to arrive in town early enough to find accommodation and look around town.

After tidying up, we went to the Church of Notre Dame, built in the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. Some great stained glass windows. Building braced from one side to the other in several places; old statues strapped to the pillars. Also saw the Penitents Cloister built in the 17th C. Named after the Penitent Brothers who settled in Louviers after abandoning their old monastery at St Barbe. The only cloister in Europe built on water. Closed during the French Rev., was given to the Societe Populaire, became a boys school, then a prison and now a school of music!

After a good night's rest had breakfast at the hotel - too expensive; can't eat enough to make it worthwhile.

May 31 Louviers to St Georges de Vievre 52 kms
On the road just before 9 am with a steady 2 k climb out of town. A bit more traffic today even on our minor D roads. Farmland and pretty villages. Very tidy houses and gardens.

Same problem as yesterday trying to find a boulangerie (bakery) open. In the village of Tourville la Campagne we noticed the Rue de les Australiens, obviously reflecting the role of Australians during WWii. After an energising half banana, we continued on, finally arriving at Le Gros Theil, a pretty little village which had a bakery which was open. No sandwiches, so we had a cold pizza type of bread, followed by a coffee in the garden of an old, quaint hotel. Iain's french is improving and he is generally understood by the friendly locals. The toilet in this little hotel was a doozy. Behind a curtain under a stairway was a door leading down three steps to a toilet set at the height of the top step. You almost had to jump up to get onto the seat, upon which your feet swung some 30-40 cm from the floor. Spotlessly clean.

Back on the road we continued along gently undulating roads to Le Bec Hellouin - the sign claiming it to be one of France's prettiest villages. It was very pretty, with a lot of history. The only discordant note was meeting our first beggar. Heading out of town we encountered a long fairly steep hill, fortunately followed by some fairly flat road to our destination at St Georges de Vievre, where the information centre directed us to a small hotel on the town square. A locked shed for the bikes and a clean bedroom for us on the second floor.

We visited the local church, a large, high ceilinged open planned church with a painted dome ceiling - looked like a Persian pattern. Pews had doors at each end. Many of the stained glass windows depicted gruesome scenes of tortured saints. Around the town were several 'fairy story' like thatched houses.

After an enjoyable meal at the hotel and our first glass of Normandy cider, we were in bed by 9 pm.

Paris

After an uneventful flight we arrived in Paris at 6.30 am and were finding our way to the railway station by 7.30. Several sections excluded trolleys, including the last section down to the platform were challenging - me carrying the two bike bags and Sue the pannier luggage. However, we soon found out that the ride into Paris would be more challenging, as we were now into peak hour. Travellers with luggage were not made especially welcome. Fortunately Gard du Nord was the end of the line, so alighting was not the problem I envisaged during the journey.



At the station we assembled the bikes, attached the panniers,put enough air in the tyres to carry the panniers, and wheeled the bikes the 2 or so kms, map in hand, to our apartment address, only to find that this was the address of a bank! About an hour later we realised that there are often two properties with the same number. The bank is 15bus and our apartment in 15 Rue du Louvre.



No sign of the landlord, so the next challenge was to find a shop which sold phone cards. Lonely Planet listed the type of outlets, so off I went leaving Sue to look after the bikes. Supermarket - no luck; Tabac - no luck; metro - no luck; finally success at another Tabac (a bar selling tobacco). Back to Sue. Phone the mobile number - no answer. Phone the office - receptionist speaks English like I speak French - doesn't at first even recognize the name I ask for! So much for my French lessons! Eventually I understand that he is at lunch, so we decided to have some ourselves. We finally got into the apartment at around 3 pm. Groundfloor, clean, modern, very Ikea, but only about 55 sm in total.



After a shower, we headed out, trusty map in hand, to find the Hard Rock Cafe Paris to pick up our 2 Day Paris Pass, then back to the supermarket to buy an easy to prepare meal. Having walked another 5 kms we were both exhausted and were very early to bed. Our internal time clocks were still adjusting so we were wide awake at around 3 am.



Friday 23. Set out to get our money's worth from our Passes, first with a trip in the Open Bus. Finished one of four routes but couldn't find where the other routes started or went, so decided to visit the Louvre, which is just down the road from our apartment. It is staggering! 300 kms of walkways. Looked around the archealogical section, with some exhibits dating back to 2000 years BC; then to see the works of Anselm Keiffer, then the early Renaissance work and the Mona Lisa. By this time the stairs and the crowds (there were thousands of visitors there) had taken their toll and we headed home for a cup of tea and a lie down. Early evening we caught a Metro train to go for a cruise along the Seine and then to circumnavigate the base of the Eiffel Tower. People everywhere an long queues to climb the Tower. Again leg-weary and exhausted, we headed home for another early night.

Saturday 24 Walked along the Seine to Notre Dame, inspecting the underground archealogical diggings revealing signs of early Paris settlement, before going into the church. Some magnificent stained glass, statues and carving, but I felt that some of the wrought iron 'fences' were intrusive and out of place.



We then caught the Metro to the Musee Orsay. I found this converted railway station, turned into a museum in the 1980's, a magnificent place, as were the paintings and particularly for me, the sculptures. I was really impressed by this museum, as I was by our next stop, the Rodin Museum. The gardens were large, very ordered, very green, with sculptures sprinkled throughout - if you can sprinkle large Rodin sculptures.



Finally to the Grevin Museum - a waxworks museum, with some very life-like figures.

Another exhausting day - home for tea and early to bed.

Sunday 25 A more leisurely start today as we were booked in at 11.30 for a guided tour of the Opera House. Our guide was a very enthusiastic young fellow who loved the history, architecture and paintings. The theatre seats only 1800 patrons. The building has very spacious foyers and winding staircases to allow the patrons to be seen and to mingle during interval. Very ornate; much gilding; staircases of many different coloured marble.

After a bite of lunch at home, it was on to our bikes for the first time for a ride in France. Along the Seine, dodging other riders and walkers. Slow progress but quite enjoyable until, in my attempt to find the Champs Elysee and the Arc de Triomphe, I took a wrong turn and we ended up in a roundabout surrounded by traffic, police and barricades - preparing for some public concert that evening. Back along the Seine life was again pleasant until a police car told us to get off the road as it was 4.30 pm and the road was being re-opened to traffic! Had to carry the bikes up some stairs before getting back onto the bike path and home via the Tuilleries - the Palace Gardens, where we again were confronted by security (on a bike) who told us that we had to walk our bikes through the gardens.

The number of people out and about in Paris is staggering. At any time around the monuments it is like Bourke Street at peak hour. I am looking forward to getting out into the countryside.

Had dinner in a small bistro suggested by our landlord as genuine French fare -very reasonably priced, very rich, very French. A pleasant evening.

Monday 26 This morning we bought our tickets from Paris to Vernon to start our touring, and to buy two day Metro passes. By now we are feeling more comfortable moving around Paris and have discovered that the Metro is a fabulous way to move around. The infrastructure is amazing, with underground lines crisscrossing the city; trains every 2 minutes so there is no need to rush.

Went up to the Sacre Coer church at Montmartre. We decided to walk up the steps rather than take the fenicula rail. Another impressive structure. It was interesting to see that despite so many signs asking people not to touch the statues, the foot on the statue of St Pierre had been touched by so many tourists that the toes of the marble statue have been worn completely away. I paid 5€ to climb up to the dome of the church for magnificent 360° views over Paris. Wisely Sue decided that she did not want to tackle the narrow winding staircases.

On the way home we visited the Gustav Moreau Museum - in his house, with many unfinished paintings on display, as well as a large number of drawings which could be inspected at close hand, something Sue really enjoyed.

Dinner at another french restaurant - a bit more expensive, but more rich tasty food.

Coffee is generally pretty poor and very expensive - between 4€ and 6€ a cup ($6-8 +)!

Tuesday 27 Woke this morning to rain. On with our new rain jackets and down to catch a bus to see a Vlaminck retrospective at the Luxembourg Musee. A fabulous show enjoyed by both of us. Spent some time in the gardens around the Musee, had another expensive coffee in a small teahouse, but the rain curtailed our stroll. Would hqve liked to explore the Latin Quarter but decided to take a bus ride to see where it went. Problem was that the route was so circuitous that Iain couldn't follow it on the map, so when we came to the end, and everyone disembarked, we had no idea where we were. A passer-by saw our confusion, pointed out that we had travelled off our map, and directed us to the nearest Metro. We enjoyed a peaceful walk through the uncrowded tree-lined suburb before undergrounding it back to more familiar territory.

Checked out our departure station for Thursday for ease of entry with the bikes. Visited the Lafayette department store. Beautiful domed ceiling in the central part, but might have been in Myers or David Jones. Came out of the store totally disoriented and spent quite a time map reading and reorientating ourselves. Went back to our own neighbourhood and wandered around the back streets. Very easy to get lost as they go in all directions