June 23 Loudeac to Gouarec 44 km
Fine weather and some beautiful views over the surrounding countryside as we gradually climbed higher. Crops, hedges, farm houses and buildings, hills and valleys, viewed from a quiet shady trail. Called in to the town of Mer de Bretagne for a coffee at a small bar. It doesn't seem to matter how early we go into these small bars, there are always a few older local men sitting on stools having a drink - mostly wine or beer, but sometimes a short black. Then in to a large supermarket to stock up on all sorts of goodies for the trail.
Back on the trail we met a young french couple on a tandem reading their map. They were riding from Brest to Nantes along a canal path, from which they had to make a short diversion. They told us that soon we would have the option of rail trail or canal path to Carhaix Plougher, which is the end of this trail.
Further up the trail, well into horse country, and we found a seat where we stopped to have lunch - another banana placed carefully into a baguette and sprinkled with sugar. The seat was fortuitous, as I noticed that a pin in the rear suspension of Sue's bike had started to come out. My trusty mini-tool and a rock soon rectified the matter and we were on our way.
A diversion occurred in the rail trail, taking us down to a gorgeous stop called Bon Repos. Had coffee at a small cafe overlooking a river and the ancient Abbaye de Bon-Repos, built in 1184.
From here we followed a very pretty canal path - shared with walkers, other cyclists, canoeists on the canal, water lilies along the banks - all this and sunshine.
5 km and we arrived in Gouarec and found the station hostel, but no one around. When we found people they weren't very helpful. A woman arrived and went into the station - but looked particularly unfriendly. After a while we went in to be met with a torrent of unpleasantness. She had lost money because of us and wasn't prepared to give us a bed tonight. As the book we had did not mention any other accommodation in the town (the only hotel had closed) this was a cause for concern until she told us to go down to the caravan park and see 'David'. We did and found a very helpful Englishman who rented us a caravan. We had our silk sleeping bag sheets with us so he said he would help out with blankets, even though they didn't usually supply linen.
Tonight a fast food van was going to trial visits to the park for the summer period, so we thought that we would support them - an English woman who is trying to educate the French to the delights of English fast food!
After dinner had a chat with David, his wife and some other park residents, including a couple who are Assemblies of God pastors in England. Also met another very pleasant English couple who regularly travel around France in their motor home. Exchanged email addresses with them and retired for a very good sleep in the quiet of the park, which was on an island in the middle of the canal/river.