Monday, July 14, 2008

June 1 St Georges de Vievre to Honfleur 54 km
After breakfast at the hotel we left at 9 am, buying bread and pastries for lunch, we headed out of town along the D137. A little uphill, then an easy ride of 18 km with little traffic to Cormeilles, quite large town with traditional Normandy houses lining the streets. The town was quite busy, with many shops open, despite it being Sunday. After a short break and half an apple each, I asked for directions. My first assistant was pushed aside by a couple who ride in the area. They advised that the route I had chosen would be too busy, and suggested that we take a more scenic route, more hilly with a short 14% climb, but very pretty. We took their advice, and soon found out that it was more steep hills than we had bargained for, including the 14% hill was quite a challenge with the loaded bikes. However road had little traffic, scenery was spectacular, with large farm houses, often behind large stone fences, with house and sheds surrounding an open courtyard. I love these places - they seem well established and organised.
Had lunch on the side of the road and then joined a more major road for the remaining 20 km into Honfleur. After a 3 km climb the road flattened out, and with a tailwind we sailed into town to look for accommodation. Chose a B&B which claimed to be 800 m from the town centre. Turned out to be more like 800 m from the edge of town. We took it as we were too tired to go back to town and start looking again. Booked in for 3 nights to have a break and a good look around this picturesque old port town. I was very pleased that I had been able to book the room on the phone in French. After a shower and a rest we walked the 2 km into town for a meal. Plenty of tourists in town.

June 2 Honfleur
Walked down to the house for a breakfast of cereal, juice, bread, toast,pastries and coffee set up by Mme Bouet in her neat-as-a-pin but sterile house. On arrival she asked us to take off our shoes before entering her house or the unit we stay in.
Carried our laundry with us into town to the laundromat - can last about 3 days between washes. Met 2 girls, American and Canadian, who gave us some washing liquid. Sue didn't notice that it was concentrated. Consequently the machine generated so many suds that they oozed out of the door of the machine. It seemed like a scene out of a movie in which we were going to be forced to evacuate because of the rising sud level.
After lunch we visited St Catherines church, rebuilt of local timber by the local shipbuilders in the !5th C after being destroyed by the British. Opposite the church is the wooden belltower, built above the bell ringer's house. Walked around the narrow streets admiring the 2/3/4 storied houses built of timber frames with mud or brick inlays. Visited the Musee of Eugene Boudin which housed some fine (Sue's assessment) pre-impressionist and some more contemporary art as well as a large collection of Normandy ethnography - headware, dress, dolls, furniture, china, & glassware.
Also called in to the Information centre and got the girls to book us a room at our next stop - Beuvron-en-Auge - which according to Lonely Planet has only a few rooms available.
Home for a rest before walking a short distance to a local hotel for a meal. Some rain today.

June 3 Honfleur
Raining today. On the way to Honfleur I lost a screw from my rear rack. Unfortunately the nearest bike shop was 15 kms away. Had intended to ride, but as it was wet I took the bus. Some consternation when I arrived at the bikeshop to find it shut on Tuesdays. Fortunately found another shop which sold motor scooters and a few bicycles and was able to get the screw needed and head back to Honfleur and met Sue at about 12.30. She had been busy visiting the Maritime Museum and the House of Ethnography which she really enjoyed. The latter was housed in a former prison, two cells with chains used to hold the prisoners on their bare-board beds, the other rooms set up as a Norman house. Wonderful examples of beaurifull pottery, glass and china, ribons, beads, toothbrushes.
Still raining. Found a lovely little cafe which served very good food and then walked back to the B&B in heavy rain, arriving with pants and shoes soaked. A hot bath fixed us up, but it took some time to dry the clothes and shoes.
Bread and banana, a couple of pastries and a glass of water comprised our evening meal, before we collapsed into bed at around 9.30 pm. This travelling business is exhausting!

June 4 Honfleur to Beuvron-en-Auge 46 km
No rain this morning and patches of blue in the sky.
Lonely Planet's 'Cycle France' describes today's ride as a 'gentle cycle along the coast and then through undulating pastoral areas of the Pays d'Auge. Sue disagrees vigorously with this description. In fact their were many 'lumps' along the coast, most of which were steep enough to knock the speed off our loaded bikes. Sue walked a few of the steeper climbs, but had the opportunity to look back over the coastline and enjoy the scenery. Weather quite sunny.
Called in to Trouville sur Mer and visited our first local market. Big market and fantastic produce. Fish, fruit, meat, cheeses, vegetables,cakes, cooked meals. Clothes stalls as well. Bought some cheese and strawberries for lunch. Had a coffee and bought pastries before heading for more hills.
As hunger was indicating the need for a lunch stop we came upon a small lake used for fishing. A charge is levied, seats are spaced around the lake and several old fishermen were arriving. There was a small kiosk and a toilet, which pleased us. (Public toilets are hard to find around France. OK for the men - they just seem to use any convenient wall or tree, regardless of whether it is the middle of town in the middle of the day. Consequently the smell of urine is quite common along the streets - as is 'doggie doos' which make it difficult to look at the towns and watch where you are walking at the same time.) Sat at a table in the shade, watched the fishermen, and enjoyed our beautiful strawberries and cheese lunch.
After lunch headed off for the last kms into the village, including the steep hill Lonely Planet did mention. Eventually arrived in 'one of the loveliest old villages in France'. It lived up to its reputation - well preserved old houses, numerous flower boxes full of colourful geraniums,lobelia and impatience. Our hotel, the Aux trois Demoiselles, was also lovely, with large oak beams and timber floor. The bathroom was slightly incongruous, being a self-contained moulded fibreglass unit including shower, handbasin and toilet.
The town boasted two michelin-starred restaurants but we lacked the attire to try their food. Went to the small creperie where Iain enjoyed a dish of tripe - very rich - while Sue had a herb and chees omelette. After dinner we wandered around the small village, admiring the houses and noting how the stream is literally at the back door of many houses and actually passed under the yard of our hotel. One house had a bridge between the house and their garden.

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