July1 Carnac to Auray 35kms
Last day of cycle touring today. After a shower and good breakfast we were ready to hit the road. I hadn't checked the road out yesterday, so with my great sense of direction headed out the wrong road. Saw a sign to where we wanted to go, but the road was closed due to road works, so it was back into town to start again. Fortunately we only travelled a couple of kms extra. The right road took us down to the beach road for a pleasant ride around the coast. The road became busier until we turned of to Locmariaquer to see more menhirs and dolmens. Visited and walked (stooped) into a couple of dolmens, and on the way out of town I detoured to view from the outside a huge dolmen. I caught up with Sue at the junction with the main road back to Auray. Again the traffic reduced the enjoyment, but apart from the last 4 kms, the road was easy. The last 4 kms contained a few hills to remind us at the end that cycle touring is not all easy.
Our riding ended at the Auray railway station. Almost 5 weeks and 1050 kms.
It has been a wonderful holiday, a good mix of riding and looking at the towns and villages we rode through, having coffees and relaxed lunches along the trail. On reflection 5 weeks has been a bit long for the amount of riding preparation that Sue was able to undertake and she has become fairly physically tired. She also has become a little sick of living out of panniers each day.
Next touring holiday we will probably select two or three places to use as a base and ride out to explore the surrounding countryside and then spend maybe a week on the road riding between base towns.
Although we have finished pedalling around France, I will continue the account of our travels in Spain and Croatia on the same blog.
We again were able to put the loaded bikes on the train for the short trip to Vannes, although this time we had to lift them up quite a height into a special carriage where they were locked. At Vannes we booked into a hotel just around from the station. We booked in for 3 nights before starting our train journey to Bilbao to meet son Cameron.
Although the owner is a bike rider, with a very nice carbon Colnago, he still charged us for parking our bikes in his secure storage area.
After tidying ourselves up we walked in to town to find the Information Centre, which is down on the waterfront. Used their internet to book in to an Ibis hotel in Irun - one of two reasonably priced hotels in Irun, although above what we would have liked to pay. On the way home we called in for dinner at a small restaurant recommended by our hotel manager, and enjoyed a very good, reasonably priced meal provided by a very personable owner and his cook wife who came out of the kitchen to greet us and shake our hand.
Wednesday, July 30, 2008
Monday, July 28, 2008
June 30 Lorient to Carnac
Breakfast this morning was served in the tiny, ordered back garden. Although it was a bit chilly, we enjoyed this start to our day.
This was going to another big day with over 40 kms of more hills and undulations, as well as riding on some more major roads to get out of town. To give leg-weary bodies a chance, and to give ourselves a more enjoyable day, we decided to take the train to Auray and then ride 20 kms to Carnac, giving ourselves plenty of time to look at the megaliths. Could take the assembled bikes on the train which was great.
Part of the ride was on a busy road, which was undulating, but with not too many challenging hills. Once off the main road the ride became much more enjoyable. Passed a couple of sites with a number of alignments of large rocks before coming to the Kermario Alignments in a field 1200 m long and 100 m wide with 1029 menhirs (large granite rocks) in 10 rows. Nearby was the largest menhir in the region - over 6 m high. As well as the menhirs, there are dolmens which are burial mounds built of huge slabs of rock and approached by a rock-walled and roofed tunnel. They were built by placing the wall rocks in place and then filling the area in with dirt before dragging the huge roof rocks into place, and then removing the infill soil to create the room. They all date back to at least 5000 years BC.
Arriving in Carnac, we booked into a cute, ancient inn, now a B&B, called 'Chez Nous', delighted to find that we had a ground floor room.
Visited the Museum, where we admired some skeletons which are around 6500 years old, then visited the ornate church of St Cornely, completed in 1657. Paintings, naves and altars everywhere, and beautiful stained glass windows and iron work.
Breakfast this morning was served in the tiny, ordered back garden. Although it was a bit chilly, we enjoyed this start to our day.
This was going to another big day with over 40 kms of more hills and undulations, as well as riding on some more major roads to get out of town. To give leg-weary bodies a chance, and to give ourselves a more enjoyable day, we decided to take the train to Auray and then ride 20 kms to Carnac, giving ourselves plenty of time to look at the megaliths. Could take the assembled bikes on the train which was great.
Part of the ride was on a busy road, which was undulating, but with not too many challenging hills. Once off the main road the ride became much more enjoyable. Passed a couple of sites with a number of alignments of large rocks before coming to the Kermario Alignments in a field 1200 m long and 100 m wide with 1029 menhirs (large granite rocks) in 10 rows. Nearby was the largest menhir in the region - over 6 m high. As well as the menhirs, there are dolmens which are burial mounds built of huge slabs of rock and approached by a rock-walled and roofed tunnel. They were built by placing the wall rocks in place and then filling the area in with dirt before dragging the huge roof rocks into place, and then removing the infill soil to create the room. They all date back to at least 5000 years BC.
Arriving in Carnac, we booked into a cute, ancient inn, now a B&B, called 'Chez Nous', delighted to find that we had a ground floor room.
Visited the Museum, where we admired some skeletons which are around 6500 years old, then visited the ornate church of St Cornely, completed in 1657. Paintings, naves and altars everywhere, and beautiful stained glass windows and iron work.
June 29 Pont Aven to Lorient 47 kms
After a restless night, enjoyed a very wholesome breakfast to ready us for the road. Longer ride today, so wanted to be away reasonably early. Loaded the bikes out the front, to the amusement of some Italians touring on motor bikes, and went to pay the bill. Bank card wouldn't work. Off the an ATM - same result; tried another ATM with same result. Tried to ring the bank's emergency number to be told that they were closed until Monday. It was Sunday, of course, when these sort of things always happen. Rang another number for lost and stolen cards, this time actually getting to speak to a real person, who was very helpful. Could tell me that my card had been blocked because I hadn't made a payment -eventually realised that I hadn't changed my SMS security service number from my mobile to daughter Megan who was paying all our bills while we are away. Fortunately the emergency girl was able to re-activate our account, so that when I got back to the hotel our card was thankfully working again.
On the road at 10.30 for a 3 km steady and sometimes serious climb out of town. Despite the rolling terrain, we had some good downhill sections on this ride. At the only serious down and up shown on the map, we decided to stop at the bottom at a lake to have our banana sandwich lunch, and continued on, arriving in Lorient at around 2.30pm. Information office closed; found a hotel - closed until 5.30pm; another - closed until 6.30pm. Did not improve our impression of Lorient, which we found as not very attractive, despite being a harbour town. Fortunately the window of the Information office contained the name and phone number for a B&B where we were able to book in. Downstairs in a couple of rooms in a family house. Very comfortable and run by a very pleasant woman.
Walked the couple of kms into town for dinner and home again. Watched Spain defeat Germany in the World Cup Tournament and Venus Williams playing tennis before hitting the sack.
After a restless night, enjoyed a very wholesome breakfast to ready us for the road. Longer ride today, so wanted to be away reasonably early. Loaded the bikes out the front, to the amusement of some Italians touring on motor bikes, and went to pay the bill. Bank card wouldn't work. Off the an ATM - same result; tried another ATM with same result. Tried to ring the bank's emergency number to be told that they were closed until Monday. It was Sunday, of course, when these sort of things always happen. Rang another number for lost and stolen cards, this time actually getting to speak to a real person, who was very helpful. Could tell me that my card had been blocked because I hadn't made a payment -eventually realised that I hadn't changed my SMS security service number from my mobile to daughter Megan who was paying all our bills while we are away. Fortunately the emergency girl was able to re-activate our account, so that when I got back to the hotel our card was thankfully working again.
On the road at 10.30 for a 3 km steady and sometimes serious climb out of town. Despite the rolling terrain, we had some good downhill sections on this ride. At the only serious down and up shown on the map, we decided to stop at the bottom at a lake to have our banana sandwich lunch, and continued on, arriving in Lorient at around 2.30pm. Information office closed; found a hotel - closed until 5.30pm; another - closed until 6.30pm. Did not improve our impression of Lorient, which we found as not very attractive, despite being a harbour town. Fortunately the window of the Information office contained the name and phone number for a B&B where we were able to book in. Downstairs in a couple of rooms in a family house. Very comfortable and run by a very pleasant woman.
Walked the couple of kms into town for dinner and home again. Watched Spain defeat Germany in the World Cup Tournament and Venus Williams playing tennis before hitting the sack.
June 26 Scaer to Pont Aven 29 kms
Our map showed that the last section of the rail trail - 13 km to the town of Rosporden - was under construction. Fortunately our information was out of date and the trail was in quite good condition. As I had been predicting for several days, the trail did go downhill, although there were 3 kms of uphill first, but then it was a breeze and most enjoyable. From Rosporden we had to return to the road for 16 km, the first time that we had been on roads for quite a few days. The fact that most of the way was down compensated for both the few hills and also the traffic. We arrived in Pont Aven down a long, steep hill (me thinking 'we've got to get out of here in a day or two') into a very pretty riverside village and booked into a lovely hotel where our room overlooked the river harbour and the opposite hills. Very relaxing and refreshing. Decided to stay for three nights to relax and have a good look around the town.
Gaugin and his school of artists put Pont Aven on the map last century, and today there are around 46 artists with galleries in town - all styles, including those copying the styles and works o.f Gaugin and others. Sue found a gallery that had some beautiful sculptures of horses and bears - flowing easy lines - costing 15000 Euros plus.
When we asked to lady who runs the hotel for directions to a laundromat, she said she would wash our clothes for us - very kind and unexpected touch.
Dined at the next door creperie.
June 27 Pont Aven
After a bit of a slow start we visited the Museum to see an exhibition of the work of an artist called Signac, who painted in the area in the first half of the 19thC.
Had a light lunch at a small cafe in town and then Iain decided to rest and read while Sue headed off to explore the area. Her meanderings took her out of town and into the countryside and she was soon quite lost. Met a man and asked for her location on the map she had. He seemed to indicate that she should keep going the way she was to reach town. After walking for some time with no sign of Pont Aven she met another man who told her to go back the way she had come and turn left twice. Following his instuctions she did find herself back in town and the first person she met was this man. The second person she met was the first man she had asked for directions!
Had our worst meal of the trip at a local hotel restaurant.
June 28 Pont Aven
Raining this morning when we woke, but cleared during the morning. On checking our emails learnt that the 20 year old youngest son of one of our close friends had died last week. Had dinner, sat in chair and went to sleep and didn't wake up. Devastating news. Phoned our friend, but are really feeling the distance between us. Wandered around somewhat shell-shocked for the rest of the day.
Our map showed that the last section of the rail trail - 13 km to the town of Rosporden - was under construction. Fortunately our information was out of date and the trail was in quite good condition. As I had been predicting for several days, the trail did go downhill, although there were 3 kms of uphill first, but then it was a breeze and most enjoyable. From Rosporden we had to return to the road for 16 km, the first time that we had been on roads for quite a few days. The fact that most of the way was down compensated for both the few hills and also the traffic. We arrived in Pont Aven down a long, steep hill (me thinking 'we've got to get out of here in a day or two') into a very pretty riverside village and booked into a lovely hotel where our room overlooked the river harbour and the opposite hills. Very relaxing and refreshing. Decided to stay for three nights to relax and have a good look around the town.
Gaugin and his school of artists put Pont Aven on the map last century, and today there are around 46 artists with galleries in town - all styles, including those copying the styles and works o.f Gaugin and others. Sue found a gallery that had some beautiful sculptures of horses and bears - flowing easy lines - costing 15000 Euros plus.
When we asked to lady who runs the hotel for directions to a laundromat, she said she would wash our clothes for us - very kind and unexpected touch.
Dined at the next door creperie.
June 27 Pont Aven
After a bit of a slow start we visited the Museum to see an exhibition of the work of an artist called Signac, who painted in the area in the first half of the 19thC.
Had a light lunch at a small cafe in town and then Iain decided to rest and read while Sue headed off to explore the area. Her meanderings took her out of town and into the countryside and she was soon quite lost. Met a man and asked for her location on the map she had. He seemed to indicate that she should keep going the way she was to reach town. After walking for some time with no sign of Pont Aven she met another man who told her to go back the way she had come and turn left twice. Following his instuctions she did find herself back in town and the first person she met was this man. The second person she met was the first man she had asked for directions!
Had our worst meal of the trip at a local hotel restaurant.
June 28 Pont Aven
Raining this morning when we woke, but cleared during the morning. On checking our emails learnt that the 20 year old youngest son of one of our close friends had died last week. Had dinner, sat in chair and went to sleep and didn't wake up. Devastating news. Phoned our friend, but are really feeling the distance between us. Wandered around somewhat shell-shocked for the rest of the day.
June 24 Carhaix Plougher to Scaer 39 km
The road from town was downhill. At last we had an easy start to the day! Our celebrations were premature, as we soon encountered a couple of serious hills before arriving at the start of the trail. Then the trail kept the theme going for most of the ride. 20 km into the ride we stopped in the little village of Gourin and had a hot chocolate at the Boomerang Bar. Name seemed to be accidental, as the bartender didn't know anything about boomerangs and Australia. When his wife arrived she greeted everyone in the bar - a kiss for those she knew and a handshake for us.
After another 10 km of uphill we stopped by the side of the trail for our lunch of yoghurt and banana. Uphill for another few kms before the track levelled out and then actually descended in the township of Scaer or should I say to the road into the township - which of course was uphill. I tried a caravan camping ground at the bottom of the hill but found no one home but a note saying pitch your tent or park your caravan and we will settle the formalities later. We had no tent so the only option was head off up the hill. Information office closed.
Unfortunately, the accommodation book we had been given did not show any accommodation in town. I rang one of the B&B's listed to be told that they were 4 kms out of town in the wrong direction for us. I booked us in, then we looked for some food before tackling the undulating trip. Sue asked the lady if there were any B&B's in town to be told yes, just at the top of the hill. Relieved we went to the place which was in a beautiful garden setting. I cancelled the other B&B. and we settled in to the most extraordinary room with fake roman columns at the end of the bed. Bedside lamps and a couple of sculptures were glued to the bedside tables and stands. Despite the eclectic selection of decor, the room was spacious, and very clean.
Madame spoke no English, but her sister came and told us in French that we could use the kitchen area of the dining room to make ourselves some dinner. Off to the supermarket and home with cold chicken, tomatoes, capsicum and cheese, as well as chocolate mousse and a bottle of cider brut. Sue only had one glass of the cider. I finished the rest of the litre bottle and knew about it that night. Developed something of a head-ache.
Pleasant end to another hard day, so it was off to bed for a good night's rest. Again debated about staying another day for recuperation, but decided against it as we didn't want to limit the time we had at Port Aven or have to cut the trip short in order to meet Cam in Bilbao.
The road from town was downhill. At last we had an easy start to the day! Our celebrations were premature, as we soon encountered a couple of serious hills before arriving at the start of the trail. Then the trail kept the theme going for most of the ride. 20 km into the ride we stopped in the little village of Gourin and had a hot chocolate at the Boomerang Bar. Name seemed to be accidental, as the bartender didn't know anything about boomerangs and Australia. When his wife arrived she greeted everyone in the bar - a kiss for those she knew and a handshake for us.
After another 10 km of uphill we stopped by the side of the trail for our lunch of yoghurt and banana. Uphill for another few kms before the track levelled out and then actually descended in the township of Scaer or should I say to the road into the township - which of course was uphill. I tried a caravan camping ground at the bottom of the hill but found no one home but a note saying pitch your tent or park your caravan and we will settle the formalities later. We had no tent so the only option was head off up the hill. Information office closed.
Unfortunately, the accommodation book we had been given did not show any accommodation in town. I rang one of the B&B's listed to be told that they were 4 kms out of town in the wrong direction for us. I booked us in, then we looked for some food before tackling the undulating trip. Sue asked the lady if there were any B&B's in town to be told yes, just at the top of the hill. Relieved we went to the place which was in a beautiful garden setting. I cancelled the other B&B. and we settled in to the most extraordinary room with fake roman columns at the end of the bed. Bedside lamps and a couple of sculptures were glued to the bedside tables and stands. Despite the eclectic selection of decor, the room was spacious, and very clean.
Madame spoke no English, but her sister came and told us in French that we could use the kitchen area of the dining room to make ourselves some dinner. Off to the supermarket and home with cold chicken, tomatoes, capsicum and cheese, as well as chocolate mousse and a bottle of cider brut. Sue only had one glass of the cider. I finished the rest of the litre bottle and knew about it that night. Developed something of a head-ache.
Pleasant end to another hard day, so it was off to bed for a good night's rest. Again debated about staying another day for recuperation, but decided against it as we didn't want to limit the time we had at Port Aven or have to cut the trip short in order to meet Cam in Bilbao.
Friday, July 18, 2008
June 24 Gouarec to Carhaix-Plougher 45 km
It would have been good to stop another day at this peaceful park, but we were running out of spare days if we are going to complete our planned journey to Vannes and on to meet Cam in Bilbao in early July. Walked down to the Boulangerie to buy some pastries and take them into the bar to have with some delicious hot chocolate.
We headed out of town and uphill to the rail trail, as we had been advised to take the rail trail to Rostren to visit the market and then take the canal path for the rest of the way. The rail trail was very undulating. Mark and Anne, the South African pastors, caught up to us, just as we passed a brightly coloured snake on the trail. Sunning itself and not threatening at all. Rode into town with them, with Mark showing us the way to exit town and find the canal path. Had a relaxing coffee with them beside the market. Talked with an English trio, probably in their 70's - woman and two men, who have pooled their pensions to buy a place in Rostrenen. In winter they rent a house in Portugal. She was pushing a pram containing two pekinese dogs. Real characters - could have chosen to stay in England and end up in a nursing home waiting for the kids to work out a way to get their money, so they decided to get up and go. The woman had just had a knee replacement and was using the pram instead of a walking frame. They and the other English people we met, including the fast food woman and her young teenage family, all lamented the decline in quality of life in England, the increasing violence and lack of respect. The French children are certainly polite and courteous, as were the fast food children.
Riding out of town it was up and down some steep hills as we headed for the canal path. Much further than I anticipated but we kept heading downwards as we figured that would be where the canal would be - eventually proving this theory correct.
The canal path was quite pretty, but proved a much longer route than anticipated, and much harder to follow on the map. I eventually found some people I could ask for reassurance that we were on the right path. Towards the end there were some wet and sloppy parts and others more rocky. I was relieved to reach the town of Carhaix-Plougher, even if it required negotiating several more hills an traffic on the 4 km ride into town.
I left Sue while I headed off following signs to the Tourist Information office. Eventually found it
and was surprised to see Sue walking towards me - I had followed signs right around the block to find the Tourist office at the point from which I started the search. They have just moved and were awaiting new street signage! This frustration at the end of the day was compensated for by a very helpful woman who gave me a lot of information about the trail ahead, as well as other riding options, as well as advice as to hotels. Booked in to the nearest hotel, bikes stored in the manager/barman/dogsbod's office, while we carried our bags up the narrow staircase to the second floor.
It would have been good to stop another day at this peaceful park, but we were running out of spare days if we are going to complete our planned journey to Vannes and on to meet Cam in Bilbao in early July. Walked down to the Boulangerie to buy some pastries and take them into the bar to have with some delicious hot chocolate.
We headed out of town and uphill to the rail trail, as we had been advised to take the rail trail to Rostren to visit the market and then take the canal path for the rest of the way. The rail trail was very undulating. Mark and Anne, the South African pastors, caught up to us, just as we passed a brightly coloured snake on the trail. Sunning itself and not threatening at all. Rode into town with them, with Mark showing us the way to exit town and find the canal path. Had a relaxing coffee with them beside the market. Talked with an English trio, probably in their 70's - woman and two men, who have pooled their pensions to buy a place in Rostrenen. In winter they rent a house in Portugal. She was pushing a pram containing two pekinese dogs. Real characters - could have chosen to stay in England and end up in a nursing home waiting for the kids to work out a way to get their money, so they decided to get up and go. The woman had just had a knee replacement and was using the pram instead of a walking frame. They and the other English people we met, including the fast food woman and her young teenage family, all lamented the decline in quality of life in England, the increasing violence and lack of respect. The French children are certainly polite and courteous, as were the fast food children.
Riding out of town it was up and down some steep hills as we headed for the canal path. Much further than I anticipated but we kept heading downwards as we figured that would be where the canal would be - eventually proving this theory correct.
The canal path was quite pretty, but proved a much longer route than anticipated, and much harder to follow on the map. I eventually found some people I could ask for reassurance that we were on the right path. Towards the end there were some wet and sloppy parts and others more rocky. I was relieved to reach the town of Carhaix-Plougher, even if it required negotiating several more hills an traffic on the 4 km ride into town.
I left Sue while I headed off following signs to the Tourist Information office. Eventually found it
and was surprised to see Sue walking towards me - I had followed signs right around the block to find the Tourist office at the point from which I started the search. They have just moved and were awaiting new street signage! This frustration at the end of the day was compensated for by a very helpful woman who gave me a lot of information about the trail ahead, as well as other riding options, as well as advice as to hotels. Booked in to the nearest hotel, bikes stored in the manager/barman/dogsbod's office, while we carried our bags up the narrow staircase to the second floor.
June 23 Loudeac to Gouarec 44 km
Fine weather and some beautiful views over the surrounding countryside as we gradually climbed higher. Crops, hedges, farm houses and buildings, hills and valleys, viewed from a quiet shady trail. Called in to the town of Mer de Bretagne for a coffee at a small bar. It doesn't seem to matter how early we go into these small bars, there are always a few older local men sitting on stools having a drink - mostly wine or beer, but sometimes a short black. Then in to a large supermarket to stock up on all sorts of goodies for the trail.
Back on the trail we met a young french couple on a tandem reading their map. They were riding from Brest to Nantes along a canal path, from which they had to make a short diversion. They told us that soon we would have the option of rail trail or canal path to Carhaix Plougher, which is the end of this trail.
Further up the trail, well into horse country, and we found a seat where we stopped to have lunch - another banana placed carefully into a baguette and sprinkled with sugar. The seat was fortuitous, as I noticed that a pin in the rear suspension of Sue's bike had started to come out. My trusty mini-tool and a rock soon rectified the matter and we were on our way.
A diversion occurred in the rail trail, taking us down to a gorgeous stop called Bon Repos. Had coffee at a small cafe overlooking a river and the ancient Abbaye de Bon-Repos, built in 1184.
From here we followed a very pretty canal path - shared with walkers, other cyclists, canoeists on the canal, water lilies along the banks - all this and sunshine.
5 km and we arrived in Gouarec and found the station hostel, but no one around. When we found people they weren't very helpful. A woman arrived and went into the station - but looked particularly unfriendly. After a while we went in to be met with a torrent of unpleasantness. She had lost money because of us and wasn't prepared to give us a bed tonight. As the book we had did not mention any other accommodation in the town (the only hotel had closed) this was a cause for concern until she told us to go down to the caravan park and see 'David'. We did and found a very helpful Englishman who rented us a caravan. We had our silk sleeping bag sheets with us so he said he would help out with blankets, even though they didn't usually supply linen.
Tonight a fast food van was going to trial visits to the park for the summer period, so we thought that we would support them - an English woman who is trying to educate the French to the delights of English fast food!
After dinner had a chat with David, his wife and some other park residents, including a couple who are Assemblies of God pastors in England. Also met another very pleasant English couple who regularly travel around France in their motor home. Exchanged email addresses with them and retired for a very good sleep in the quiet of the park, which was on an island in the middle of the canal/river.
Fine weather and some beautiful views over the surrounding countryside as we gradually climbed higher. Crops, hedges, farm houses and buildings, hills and valleys, viewed from a quiet shady trail. Called in to the town of Mer de Bretagne for a coffee at a small bar. It doesn't seem to matter how early we go into these small bars, there are always a few older local men sitting on stools having a drink - mostly wine or beer, but sometimes a short black. Then in to a large supermarket to stock up on all sorts of goodies for the trail.
Back on the trail we met a young french couple on a tandem reading their map. They were riding from Brest to Nantes along a canal path, from which they had to make a short diversion. They told us that soon we would have the option of rail trail or canal path to Carhaix Plougher, which is the end of this trail.
Further up the trail, well into horse country, and we found a seat where we stopped to have lunch - another banana placed carefully into a baguette and sprinkled with sugar. The seat was fortuitous, as I noticed that a pin in the rear suspension of Sue's bike had started to come out. My trusty mini-tool and a rock soon rectified the matter and we were on our way.
A diversion occurred in the rail trail, taking us down to a gorgeous stop called Bon Repos. Had coffee at a small cafe overlooking a river and the ancient Abbaye de Bon-Repos, built in 1184.
From here we followed a very pretty canal path - shared with walkers, other cyclists, canoeists on the canal, water lilies along the banks - all this and sunshine.
5 km and we arrived in Gouarec and found the station hostel, but no one around. When we found people they weren't very helpful. A woman arrived and went into the station - but looked particularly unfriendly. After a while we went in to be met with a torrent of unpleasantness. She had lost money because of us and wasn't prepared to give us a bed tonight. As the book we had did not mention any other accommodation in the town (the only hotel had closed) this was a cause for concern until she told us to go down to the caravan park and see 'David'. We did and found a very helpful Englishman who rented us a caravan. We had our silk sleeping bag sheets with us so he said he would help out with blankets, even though they didn't usually supply linen.
Tonight a fast food van was going to trial visits to the park for the summer period, so we thought that we would support them - an English woman who is trying to educate the French to the delights of English fast food!
After dinner had a chat with David, his wife and some other park residents, including a couple who are Assemblies of God pastors in England. Also met another very pleasant English couple who regularly travel around France in their motor home. Exchanged email addresses with them and retired for a very good sleep in the quiet of the park, which was on an island in the middle of the canal/river.
June 22 Loudeac
Not much to see around town. Everything was shut as it is Sunday. Rang the children and did the washing and generally relaxed.
In the evening we struggled to find any restaurants open, eventually coming upon a creperie where we had an enjoyable meal.
We had booked in to a hostel in the closed railway station at our next stop of Goureac, so this morning had to phone and leave a message that Sue was not well so we would not be arriving until Monday.
Not much to see around town. Everything was shut as it is Sunday. Rang the children and did the washing and generally relaxed.
In the evening we struggled to find any restaurants open, eventually coming upon a creperie where we had an enjoyable meal.
We had booked in to a hostel in the closed railway station at our next stop of Goureac, so this morning had to phone and leave a message that Sue was not well so we would not be arriving until Monday.
June 21 St Meen le Grand to Loudeac 54 km
This was the start of around 200 km of rail trail. It is very pleasant being able to ride side by side and enjoy the countryside without worrying about traffic. Although there were no steep inclines, about half of today's ride was uphill, and Sue was very weary when we arrived in the very unattractive industrial town of Loudeac. Information centre closed, so we booked in to the most attractive hotel, Les Voyageurs. Showered and walked around the town, but not much to see.
Despite this, we decided to stay an extra day to give Sue's body a chance to recover - a change of seat angle wasn't a very smart move, even for a reasonable short time.
This was the start of around 200 km of rail trail. It is very pleasant being able to ride side by side and enjoy the countryside without worrying about traffic. Although there were no steep inclines, about half of today's ride was uphill, and Sue was very weary when we arrived in the very unattractive industrial town of Loudeac. Information centre closed, so we booked in to the most attractive hotel, Les Voyageurs. Showered and walked around the town, but not much to see.
Despite this, we decided to stay an extra day to give Sue's body a chance to recover - a change of seat angle wasn't a very smart move, even for a reasonable short time.
June 20 Dinan to St Meen le Grand 52 km
Helpful young woman at the information centre in Dinan gave us a brochure of the Route Verte - rail trails in the region, so we are heading off-road today. Headed under the town wall on the cobbled road and lost the map. At the bottom of the steep hill I also lost the way. Went in to a bar for assistance to be met by a very frosty reception and no help. A more helpful man pointed us in the right direction, into the beautiful, picture book township of Lehon. Would have liked to have a better look around the town, but the trail beckoned - if only I could find the start. Asked a fellow working in his garden, who called his daughter to assist, as she could speak English better than I could obviously speak French. Actually, I think that father was just wanting to show us how clever his daughter is - she had been in Sydney for 6 months working as an au pair. Nice girl who walked us to the start of the trail.
Easy riding alongside the river for about 8 kms which was followed by about 3 kms of country road, much of it uphill, to the small town of Trevron, where we located the rail trail. The trail was shady and pleasant, but Sue's legs were having a holiday today. Around 1 pm we headed off the trail into a small township called Plouasne, which seemed somewhat depressed. Had a coffee at a small, unusually unclean bar attached to a bakery. As we were having our coffee, the owner came over and presented us with 4 small pastries as a gift.
Another 4 km and the rail trail ended so it was back on to the road for the last kms into St Grand where we booked in to Les Trois Pliers, in the centre of town, which was very basic - furnished cheaply, the carpet doesn't fit, the bathroom is huge but the bath has no plug. However he beds are clean and the shower was good, and the hotelier is very pleasant.
Our walk around the street revealed lots of houses of dark stone in a mixture of styles, and a strange little war memorial church filled with memorial stones of the fallen.
The town hall was an amazing building, like a wedding cake, with towers, spires, chimneys.
Helpful young woman at the information centre in Dinan gave us a brochure of the Route Verte - rail trails in the region, so we are heading off-road today. Headed under the town wall on the cobbled road and lost the map. At the bottom of the steep hill I also lost the way. Went in to a bar for assistance to be met by a very frosty reception and no help. A more helpful man pointed us in the right direction, into the beautiful, picture book township of Lehon. Would have liked to have a better look around the town, but the trail beckoned - if only I could find the start. Asked a fellow working in his garden, who called his daughter to assist, as she could speak English better than I could obviously speak French. Actually, I think that father was just wanting to show us how clever his daughter is - she had been in Sydney for 6 months working as an au pair. Nice girl who walked us to the start of the trail.
Easy riding alongside the river for about 8 kms which was followed by about 3 kms of country road, much of it uphill, to the small town of Trevron, where we located the rail trail. The trail was shady and pleasant, but Sue's legs were having a holiday today. Around 1 pm we headed off the trail into a small township called Plouasne, which seemed somewhat depressed. Had a coffee at a small, unusually unclean bar attached to a bakery. As we were having our coffee, the owner came over and presented us with 4 small pastries as a gift.
Another 4 km and the rail trail ended so it was back on to the road for the last kms into St Grand where we booked in to Les Trois Pliers, in the centre of town, which was very basic - furnished cheaply, the carpet doesn't fit, the bathroom is huge but the bath has no plug. However he beds are clean and the shower was good, and the hotelier is very pleasant.
Our walk around the street revealed lots of houses of dark stone in a mixture of styles, and a strange little war memorial church filled with memorial stones of the fallen.
The town hall was an amazing building, like a wedding cake, with towers, spires, chimneys.
June 19 Dinan
It's amazing - another rest day - another wet day.
Market day today, so we walked through on our way to look for a laundromat, which we found and used. Bought a sausage in a galette in the market for lunch and some bananas for tomorrow's travels.
Went to the Castle Museum which was part of the remaining town ramparts. Saw an exhibition of Marc Gousse and admired the wooden sculptures and a carved diptych which told the story of the beheading of some 15thC saint in graphic detail. Also saw a small carving of ivory of an angel with its foot on a skull.
Wandered around looking for the way onto the old town wall, but there is only a small section you can actually walk on. Found a printmaker's shop and Sue had a long chat with his wife who spoke quite good English.
We also went for a walk down the narrow winding cobbled street with its quaint old houses and shops to the port of Dinan on the Rance River we had followed to town .
Tried whelks and winkles for dinner, but wouldn't bother again as the little bleeders are very hard to find and extract from their tiny shells. As last night, before dinner we were given a small salmon tart, and after the meal a small glass of calvados and some tiny fruit tarts. A nice touch.
It's amazing - another rest day - another wet day.
Market day today, so we walked through on our way to look for a laundromat, which we found and used. Bought a sausage in a galette in the market for lunch and some bananas for tomorrow's travels.
Went to the Castle Museum which was part of the remaining town ramparts. Saw an exhibition of Marc Gousse and admired the wooden sculptures and a carved diptych which told the story of the beheading of some 15thC saint in graphic detail. Also saw a small carving of ivory of an angel with its foot on a skull.
Wandered around looking for the way onto the old town wall, but there is only a small section you can actually walk on. Found a printmaker's shop and Sue had a long chat with his wife who spoke quite good English.
We also went for a walk down the narrow winding cobbled street with its quaint old houses and shops to the port of Dinan on the Rance River we had followed to town .
Tried whelks and winkles for dinner, but wouldn't bother again as the little bleeders are very hard to find and extract from their tiny shells. As last night, before dinner we were given a small salmon tart, and after the meal a small glass of calvados and some tiny fruit tarts. A nice touch.
June 18 St Malo to Dinan 32 km
On the way out of St Malo we had to negotiate the main road across the mouth of the Rance River. The road goes across the wall of a dam with turbines which generate electricity using the sea tides. Traffic very heavy. On the other side a tractor with trailer somehow managed to graze Sue's front pannier. Fortunately she was able to land on her feet, but she was badly shaken. We still had about 2 km on this road and then had to cross 2 lanes of traffic to turn onto a quieter road to Dinan. Soon after the turn-off we stopped in a small town to enable Sue to regain her composure and to have a coffee.
The road today was again undulating to hilly, but the scenery was pretty as we followed the river valley down (?) to Dinan.
Dinan is one of, if not the, oldest walled cities in Brittany. we booked in to La Duchesse Anne, given a room in the new wing which was built in 1762!
Our walk around town took us through narrow streets with very old houses which go at all angles, quite a few a long way off vertical, but still standing firm. Saint Sauveur's Basilica is a very old and ornate building, whilst the St Malo's Church has stunning stained glass windows.
Staying in Dinan for a rest day tomorrow and have a better look around at this old town.
On the way out of St Malo we had to negotiate the main road across the mouth of the Rance River. The road goes across the wall of a dam with turbines which generate electricity using the sea tides. Traffic very heavy. On the other side a tractor with trailer somehow managed to graze Sue's front pannier. Fortunately she was able to land on her feet, but she was badly shaken. We still had about 2 km on this road and then had to cross 2 lanes of traffic to turn onto a quieter road to Dinan. Soon after the turn-off we stopped in a small town to enable Sue to regain her composure and to have a coffee.
The road today was again undulating to hilly, but the scenery was pretty as we followed the river valley down (?) to Dinan.
Dinan is one of, if not the, oldest walled cities in Brittany. we booked in to La Duchesse Anne, given a room in the new wing which was built in 1762!
Our walk around town took us through narrow streets with very old houses which go at all angles, quite a few a long way off vertical, but still standing firm. Saint Sauveur's Basilica is a very old and ornate building, whilst the St Malo's Church has stunning stained glass windows.
Staying in Dinan for a rest day tomorrow and have a better look around at this old town.
June 17 Cancale to St Malo 26 km
Arose to a huge breakast prepared by Fabian - juice, yoghurts, cakes, croissants, a heavy custard cake with prunes, bread, home-made jams, and tea.
Another beautiful day. On the way of town we rode around to Pointe de Grouin, which gave spectacular views along the coastline and over some small rocky islands which are rookeries for some of the local sea birds.
Road is undulating but with a number of short but sharp rises. Just before St Malo we detoured at Rotheneuf to see the Rochers Sculptures, carved in the rock rising from the sea by a disfigured deaf mute monk over a period of 25 years from 1870. Interesting.
Then in to St Malo to our hotel just inside the walls of the old city. After freshening up we walked around the walled city and around the ramparts, looking down on the beaches, bay and docks - housing many large yachts as well as being the stop for ferries.
Next stop was Dinan so asked for accommodation details at the information office. Selected a hotel and booked by phone. During the evening I noticed that I had information for Dinard, just across the harbour, necessitating another phone call to cancel the bookings.
Arose to a huge breakast prepared by Fabian - juice, yoghurts, cakes, croissants, a heavy custard cake with prunes, bread, home-made jams, and tea.
Another beautiful day. On the way of town we rode around to Pointe de Grouin, which gave spectacular views along the coastline and over some small rocky islands which are rookeries for some of the local sea birds.
Road is undulating but with a number of short but sharp rises. Just before St Malo we detoured at Rotheneuf to see the Rochers Sculptures, carved in the rock rising from the sea by a disfigured deaf mute monk over a period of 25 years from 1870. Interesting.
Then in to St Malo to our hotel just inside the walls of the old city. After freshening up we walked around the walled city and around the ramparts, looking down on the beaches, bay and docks - housing many large yachts as well as being the stop for ferries.
Next stop was Dinan so asked for accommodation details at the information office. Selected a hotel and booked by phone. During the evening I noticed that I had information for Dinard, just across the harbour, necessitating another phone call to cancel the bookings.
June 16 Mont St Michel to Cancale 49 km
Soon after leaving Mont St Michel we crossed the border from Normandy into Brittany. It was a beautiful sunny day, little wind, and apart from the last 4 or 5 km, flat. We passed or were passed by a number of fishing 'ducks' - fishing boats on wheels which drove straight into the water. All with cranes to load their catch of fish or mussels. Mussel and oyster farms are evident all along this coastline.
Had to climb a few hills before dropping down into the beautiful fishing and holiday village of Cancale. Had a meal of mussels at an outdoor cafe on the bay. This is what life is all about! The street along the harbour is lined with restaurants and hotels.
Through the bikes we met a Dutch couple who spoke good English. Frieda had lived for 8 years in NZ and 3 in Australia as a child, so she had quite an interesting accent. Exchanged email addresses. They may be coming to NZ next year and will consider visiting on the way home.
We chose to stay at a B&B about 2.5 km out of town. Downside was that we had to climb the steep hill up to the township. Great B&B in a converted farm building. Hostess Fabian was very welcoming.
After a good rest, we rode the unloaded bikes back down to the harbour for dinner, which included our now regular bottle of local cider.
Soon after leaving Mont St Michel we crossed the border from Normandy into Brittany. It was a beautiful sunny day, little wind, and apart from the last 4 or 5 km, flat. We passed or were passed by a number of fishing 'ducks' - fishing boats on wheels which drove straight into the water. All with cranes to load their catch of fish or mussels. Mussel and oyster farms are evident all along this coastline.
Had to climb a few hills before dropping down into the beautiful fishing and holiday village of Cancale. Had a meal of mussels at an outdoor cafe on the bay. This is what life is all about! The street along the harbour is lined with restaurants and hotels.
Through the bikes we met a Dutch couple who spoke good English. Frieda had lived for 8 years in NZ and 3 in Australia as a child, so she had quite an interesting accent. Exchanged email addresses. They may be coming to NZ next year and will consider visiting on the way home.
We chose to stay at a B&B about 2.5 km out of town. Downside was that we had to climb the steep hill up to the township. Great B&B in a converted farm building. Hostess Fabian was very welcoming.
After a good rest, we rode the unloaded bikes back down to the harbour for dinner, which included our now regular bottle of local cider.
June 15 Mont Saint Michel
Awoke to steady rain, which looked set in for the day, so we opted to take a bus.
The Abbey, soaring skyward atop the small granite outcrop, 2 km into the bay (apart from the current above-sea-level causeway) is quite spectacular. Thought to date back to 708. It became a focus of pilgrimage. In the 10thC the Benedictines settled in the abbey while a village grew up below its walls, eventually extending to the foot of the rock. It was an impregnable stronghold. During the French Revolution the religious community was removed and it became a prison until 1863. The achievement of building this huge structure at the top of this steep rocky outcrop is awe-inspiring. The huge span of the high ceiling; the high windows; the network of worship areas and chapels; the refectory with its huge tables where the monks took their meals, the guests' hall immediately below; the monks' rooms; the enormous wheel which was used to hoist supplies up a steeply angled 'slide'.
The steep cobbled road from the bottom of the mount up to the abbey now houses hotels and shops aimed squarely at the tourist trade.
As the rain had stopped we walked home across the causeway.
Awoke to steady rain, which looked set in for the day, so we opted to take a bus.
The Abbey, soaring skyward atop the small granite outcrop, 2 km into the bay (apart from the current above-sea-level causeway) is quite spectacular. Thought to date back to 708. It became a focus of pilgrimage. In the 10thC the Benedictines settled in the abbey while a village grew up below its walls, eventually extending to the foot of the rock. It was an impregnable stronghold. During the French Revolution the religious community was removed and it became a prison until 1863. The achievement of building this huge structure at the top of this steep rocky outcrop is awe-inspiring. The huge span of the high ceiling; the high windows; the network of worship areas and chapels; the refectory with its huge tables where the monks took their meals, the guests' hall immediately below; the monks' rooms; the enormous wheel which was used to hoist supplies up a steeply angled 'slide'.
The steep cobbled road from the bottom of the mount up to the abbey now houses hotels and shops aimed squarely at the tourist trade.
As the rain had stopped we walked home across the causeway.
June 14 Avranches to Mont St Michel 26km
As it was a short ride again today, we stayed in town to see an exhibition of Chagall's religious paintings at the Scriptorial, which opened at 10 am. Iain went looking for access to part of the old town ramparts. Sue had better luck, finding a 20€ note and a great little local market. Some old women were obviously selling vegetables grown in the back yard as they only had small quantities displayed on card tables.
After Chagall we called in to the Museum where Sue enjoyed the work of an artist called Henri Marret with works from the early 1900s to the 1960s.
Had a coffee before collecting the bikes and heading out of town by the flatter route, according to the woman in the information centre. She certainly wasn't riding a loaded bike, as the road out was quite steep, with heavy traffic. However, we were then rewarded with a downhill to the coast, and more minor roads with little traffic. Apart from a headwind, which became stronger, it was a pleasant ride. Stopped for lunch at a little restaurant in the tiny village of Bas Coursil. We then rejoined the major road, with traffic becoming heavier as we approached Mont St Michel - an increasing number of tourist buses. The views across the water of Mont St Michel rising out of the sea was arresting.
As we were unsure of the options on the Mount itself, we opted for accommodation at the start of the causeway, about 2 km from the mount.
Did the washing and generally lazed around for the rest of the day - staying in a cabin in a caravan park.
As it was a short ride again today, we stayed in town to see an exhibition of Chagall's religious paintings at the Scriptorial, which opened at 10 am. Iain went looking for access to part of the old town ramparts. Sue had better luck, finding a 20€ note and a great little local market. Some old women were obviously selling vegetables grown in the back yard as they only had small quantities displayed on card tables.
After Chagall we called in to the Museum where Sue enjoyed the work of an artist called Henri Marret with works from the early 1900s to the 1960s.
Had a coffee before collecting the bikes and heading out of town by the flatter route, according to the woman in the information centre. She certainly wasn't riding a loaded bike, as the road out was quite steep, with heavy traffic. However, we were then rewarded with a downhill to the coast, and more minor roads with little traffic. Apart from a headwind, which became stronger, it was a pleasant ride. Stopped for lunch at a little restaurant in the tiny village of Bas Coursil. We then rejoined the major road, with traffic becoming heavier as we approached Mont St Michel - an increasing number of tourist buses. The views across the water of Mont St Michel rising out of the sea was arresting.
As we were unsure of the options on the Mount itself, we opted for accommodation at the start of the causeway, about 2 km from the mount.
Did the washing and generally lazed around for the rest of the day - staying in a cabin in a caravan park.
June 13 Villedieu les Poeles to Avranches 23.5 km
There is nothing pleasant about riding uphill on cold legs, and this morning, within a km of the town centre we struck a corker. Walking the steepest bit was the most sensible thing, so we did. The road today was a fairly busy one with its fair share of hills. Saw a toilet sign in a small town, but couldn't find the toilet. On enquiring, we discovered that it was almost a km away in the next town! Another steady steep heavily trafficked climb into Avranches, arriving late morning after our 8.30 am start. Sitting down to a coffee when it started to rain quite heavily. Noticed that there was a hotel attached to the bar, so booked in. Bikes had to stay in a courtyard at the back which served a couple of businesses. Accessed via a door on the street, so felt he bikes would be reasonably secure.
Visited the Basilique St Gervais in which there was a locked glassed room full of religious treasures, the oddest being a human skull, in an ornate gold cabinet, with a hole in the skull, reputedly caused when an angel laid her finger on the saint's head.
Then went to the Scriptorial d'Avranches to see the ancient manuscripts of Mont St Michel, beautifully preserved, the oldest dating to 10th C.
Later went for a walk through the cobbled streets and onto the castle ramparts, which gave a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside.
There is nothing pleasant about riding uphill on cold legs, and this morning, within a km of the town centre we struck a corker. Walking the steepest bit was the most sensible thing, so we did. The road today was a fairly busy one with its fair share of hills. Saw a toilet sign in a small town, but couldn't find the toilet. On enquiring, we discovered that it was almost a km away in the next town! Another steady steep heavily trafficked climb into Avranches, arriving late morning after our 8.30 am start. Sitting down to a coffee when it started to rain quite heavily. Noticed that there was a hotel attached to the bar, so booked in. Bikes had to stay in a courtyard at the back which served a couple of businesses. Accessed via a door on the street, so felt he bikes would be reasonably secure.
Visited the Basilique St Gervais in which there was a locked glassed room full of religious treasures, the oddest being a human skull, in an ornate gold cabinet, with a hole in the skull, reputedly caused when an angel laid her finger on the saint's head.
Then went to the Scriptorial d'Avranches to see the ancient manuscripts of Mont St Michel, beautifully preserved, the oldest dating to 10th C.
Later went for a walk through the cobbled streets and onto the castle ramparts, which gave a spectacular view of the surrounding countryside.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
June 12 Villedieu les Poeles
Another rest day, some more rain! Only lasted a few hours. My coffee this morning was delivered in a large cereal bowl!
Had an interesting visit to the Fonderie de Cloches, the oldest bell foundry in France. As the only English speaking tourists, we had our personal guide to show us around and explain the process of making the bells - huge bells using traditional methods, although now also using a block and tackle to help move the bells. The mold is made from a mixture of manure, mud and goats hair.
A visit to the museum of Normandy furniture followed, some of the furniture dating back to the 13thC. Rooms were set up as replicas of a 17thC Normandy house. Beautiful, intricate carving on many of the pieces.
In the narrow streets we found another small museum which had a collection of old copper pots and utensils as well as a lace display. The young attendant gave us a demonstration of lace-making - a painfully slow process. Then on to the Atelier du Cuiure to see he coppersmiths at work. Villedieu was known as the town of the deaf, and it was interesting to note that he coppersmiths were not wearing earmuffs. I asked about this and was advised that they are supplied to the workers, but they prefer not to use them as they need to hear the sound of the copper as it is beaten to make the best products - so the modern workers also go deaf.
Iain had local sausage and gizzards with salad which he found quite tasty. The English translation on the menu described the item as gizzards and guts - too intriguing not to try them.
Another rest day, some more rain! Only lasted a few hours. My coffee this morning was delivered in a large cereal bowl!
Had an interesting visit to the Fonderie de Cloches, the oldest bell foundry in France. As the only English speaking tourists, we had our personal guide to show us around and explain the process of making the bells - huge bells using traditional methods, although now also using a block and tackle to help move the bells. The mold is made from a mixture of manure, mud and goats hair.
A visit to the museum of Normandy furniture followed, some of the furniture dating back to the 13thC. Rooms were set up as replicas of a 17thC Normandy house. Beautiful, intricate carving on many of the pieces.
In the narrow streets we found another small museum which had a collection of old copper pots and utensils as well as a lace display. The young attendant gave us a demonstration of lace-making - a painfully slow process. Then on to the Atelier du Cuiure to see he coppersmiths at work. Villedieu was known as the town of the deaf, and it was interesting to note that he coppersmiths were not wearing earmuffs. I asked about this and was advised that they are supplied to the workers, but they prefer not to use them as they need to hear the sound of the copper as it is beaten to make the best products - so the modern workers also go deaf.
Iain had local sausage and gizzards with salad which he found quite tasty. The English translation on the menu described the item as gizzards and guts - too intriguing not to try them.
June 11 St Lo to Villedieu-les-Poeles 43 kms
Since leaving Bayeux we are heading south to south-west towards Mont St Michel. Today was more south, the first 20 km being along an undulating busy road. We stopped at the small village of Villebaudon for a coffee in a little bar. The owner told us that the town had been almost completely destroyed during the war. The town is built on the top of a hill and commands quite a view over the surrounding countryside. The church tower was used by the British as a look-out.
From here we took to the back roads. Hillier, but easier to take with the small amount of motor traffic. We tootled along, walking up the steeper hills, enjoying the countryside and the beautiful stone farm buildings, the tidy towns and houses with their colourful flower boxes.
Arrived in the pretty town of Villedieu. Finding a hotel, having a bath and a look around the town, we decided to stay for two days to have a look at the copper utensil factory and the bell foundry.
Weather has been great, with only a few days when the sun was very hot and we applied the sunscreen. We have also been fascinated by the number of hedges, both in the towns and around the farm paddocks. A lot of time and effort is required to maintain these hedges.
We are now moving into 'horse country'. Have seen one Breton horse stud with their stocky local horses. Moving into more thoroughbred country and have seen from the outside some large 'national' stables. Churches and church bells are also a feature of all towns, with bells ringing out the quarter hour.
Since leaving Bayeux we are heading south to south-west towards Mont St Michel. Today was more south, the first 20 km being along an undulating busy road. We stopped at the small village of Villebaudon for a coffee in a little bar. The owner told us that the town had been almost completely destroyed during the war. The town is built on the top of a hill and commands quite a view over the surrounding countryside. The church tower was used by the British as a look-out.
From here we took to the back roads. Hillier, but easier to take with the small amount of motor traffic. We tootled along, walking up the steeper hills, enjoying the countryside and the beautiful stone farm buildings, the tidy towns and houses with their colourful flower boxes.
Arrived in the pretty town of Villedieu. Finding a hotel, having a bath and a look around the town, we decided to stay for two days to have a look at the copper utensil factory and the bell foundry.
Weather has been great, with only a few days when the sun was very hot and we applied the sunscreen. We have also been fascinated by the number of hedges, both in the towns and around the farm paddocks. A lot of time and effort is required to maintain these hedges.
We are now moving into 'horse country'. Have seen one Breton horse stud with their stocky local horses. Moving into more thoroughbred country and have seen from the outside some large 'national' stables. Churches and church bells are also a feature of all towns, with bells ringing out the quarter hour.
June 10 Bayeux to St Lo 44 kms
What a day! Sue kept asking me what the date was, to which I replied that I had no idea. So focussed on the road ahead was I that it took some very heavy hints to remind me that it was June 10, Sue's 65th birthday! Won't Sue dine out on this story! She celebrated her birthday by riding up all the hills and hitting 40 kph on a downhill!
We called in to the town of Cerisy-la-Foret to see the work of a group of international scupltors who were working on their pieces from June 7-21. Too early to appreciate the works but plenty of dust and noise. Walked around a pretty lake and viewed sculptures from past competitions and also visited the Abbaye de Cerisy, a romanesque-style church dating from the 11th C. Given a guided tour by a student who loved the buildings. Saw the Justice Room where the Bishop held court and administered justice, as well as the cellars and a small cell for prisoners. There are also a series of underground tunnels created as a means of escape for the monks if they were under attack. In the nave of the church we saw some beautiful oak seats built in the 13thC, the invoice for which is still in existence. Also viewed some 13thC manuscripts and music sheets. A most enjoyable stop.
The first 25 kms from Bayeux was along pretty country roads without any serious hills, but this all changed after Cerisy. The hills became more frequent, the traffic heavier, and the temperature rising to 26. St Lo seemed to be a series of hills, which was compounded by the fact that we had trouble locating the 'Best Hotel' where Iain had reserved a room. Took us about 2 hours of asking for directions and riding up and down hills before we found the hotel, which was modern, basic, but better than the one at Ifs. I gave Sue's weary body a massage and then took her out to dinner at Buffalo Grills to celebrate her birthday. Fast food, and a friendly African waitress. Fortunately Sue's spare ribs were tender and tasty. My buffalo steak was the toughest meat I have had for years.
What a day! Sue kept asking me what the date was, to which I replied that I had no idea. So focussed on the road ahead was I that it took some very heavy hints to remind me that it was June 10, Sue's 65th birthday! Won't Sue dine out on this story! She celebrated her birthday by riding up all the hills and hitting 40 kph on a downhill!
We called in to the town of Cerisy-la-Foret to see the work of a group of international scupltors who were working on their pieces from June 7-21. Too early to appreciate the works but plenty of dust and noise. Walked around a pretty lake and viewed sculptures from past competitions and also visited the Abbaye de Cerisy, a romanesque-style church dating from the 11th C. Given a guided tour by a student who loved the buildings. Saw the Justice Room where the Bishop held court and administered justice, as well as the cellars and a small cell for prisoners. There are also a series of underground tunnels created as a means of escape for the monks if they were under attack. In the nave of the church we saw some beautiful oak seats built in the 13thC, the invoice for which is still in existence. Also viewed some 13thC manuscripts and music sheets. A most enjoyable stop.
The first 25 kms from Bayeux was along pretty country roads without any serious hills, but this all changed after Cerisy. The hills became more frequent, the traffic heavier, and the temperature rising to 26. St Lo seemed to be a series of hills, which was compounded by the fact that we had trouble locating the 'Best Hotel' where Iain had reserved a room. Took us about 2 hours of asking for directions and riding up and down hills before we found the hotel, which was modern, basic, but better than the one at Ifs. I gave Sue's weary body a massage and then took her out to dinner at Buffalo Grills to celebrate her birthday. Fast food, and a friendly African waitress. Fortunately Sue's spare ribs were tender and tasty. My buffalo steak was the toughest meat I have had for years.
June 9 Bayeux - D-Day Beaches - Bayeux 35 kms
First stop was at a small Commonwealth Cemetery with only 1000 graves - 650 Commonwealth and 350 German. So many young lives lost. Towards the end of the war the Germans were recruiting 16 year olds. All the cemeteries and war memorials are beautifully looked after and respected by the locals.
Rode on to Arromanches and saw the huge floating harbour towed over in sections from Britain to assist in the Allied landing. Something like 500,000 men, 300,000 vehicles, 3 million tons of supplies landed here over a few days.
On the way back to Bayeux we had a look at some cliff-top batteries at Le Chaos.
We had intended to do the full D-Day Beaches tour, but were so emotionally affected by the little we had seen that we felt that we could not cope with the huge American cemetery at Omaha Beach.
Back in town, we did our washing, had dinner and an early night in preparation for hitting the road once more.
First stop was at a small Commonwealth Cemetery with only 1000 graves - 650 Commonwealth and 350 German. So many young lives lost. Towards the end of the war the Germans were recruiting 16 year olds. All the cemeteries and war memorials are beautifully looked after and respected by the locals.
Rode on to Arromanches and saw the huge floating harbour towed over in sections from Britain to assist in the Allied landing. Something like 500,000 men, 300,000 vehicles, 3 million tons of supplies landed here over a few days.
On the way back to Bayeux we had a look at some cliff-top batteries at Le Chaos.
We had intended to do the full D-Day Beaches tour, but were so emotionally affected by the little we had seen that we felt that we could not cope with the huge American cemetery at Omaha Beach.
Back in town, we did our washing, had dinner and an early night in preparation for hitting the road once more.
June 8 Bayeux
Phoned the children, to check on their well-being and then to see an exhibition of Bayeux porcelain at the Musee Baron Gerard, and to inspect a modern tapestry done by 243 people in Zeeland, a province of the Netherlands. Titled 'Made by Us', the tapestry is 126 metres long and 45 cm high. Underneath each panel there is an explanation of why the artist selected their particular embroidered images. Also visited the cathedral, parts of which are 1000 years old. Splendid stained glass and carved images.
Shared conversation at dinner with a couple from Mt Martha! A relief to be able to relax and talk English - although I must admit that I am enjoying the challenge of communicating in French, which is becoming slightly easier.
Phoned the children, to check on their well-being and then to see an exhibition of Bayeux porcelain at the Musee Baron Gerard, and to inspect a modern tapestry done by 243 people in Zeeland, a province of the Netherlands. Titled 'Made by Us', the tapestry is 126 metres long and 45 cm high. Underneath each panel there is an explanation of why the artist selected their particular embroidered images. Also visited the cathedral, parts of which are 1000 years old. Splendid stained glass and carved images.
Shared conversation at dinner with a couple from Mt Martha! A relief to be able to relax and talk English - although I must admit that I am enjoying the challenge of communicating in French, which is becoming slightly easier.
June 7 Bayeux
Breakfast was enjoyable when we retrieved Sue's bag from the dining room - safely put away by the staff.
Yesterday was D-Day memorial, so there were many celebrations taking place. We went to the Musee Memorial de la Bataille de Normandie, on the way inspecting the WWII camp set up with army tents, motor bikes, trucks, jeeps, tanks, staffed by people in WWII uniforms. The Museum contained an incredible record of the battles which raged for such a short period of time - 10,000 allies killed in 11 days of fighting. Still photos and a movie of film taken during the fighting was extremely graphic and disturbing. The destruction wreaked by both the Allies and the Germans was unbelievable. Ancient buildings, treasures, paintings, houses all destroyed. Emotionally drained, we walked across the road to the British Military Cemetery, with hundreds of white gravestones the same size, with different emblems and epitaphs - many for unknown servicemen.
After lunch we had a look at the Bayeux Tapestry - 70 metres long, graphically describing the war between Harold and William the Conqueror - and almost 1000 years old.
Breakfast was enjoyable when we retrieved Sue's bag from the dining room - safely put away by the staff.
Yesterday was D-Day memorial, so there were many celebrations taking place. We went to the Musee Memorial de la Bataille de Normandie, on the way inspecting the WWII camp set up with army tents, motor bikes, trucks, jeeps, tanks, staffed by people in WWII uniforms. The Museum contained an incredible record of the battles which raged for such a short period of time - 10,000 allies killed in 11 days of fighting. Still photos and a movie of film taken during the fighting was extremely graphic and disturbing. The destruction wreaked by both the Allies and the Germans was unbelievable. Ancient buildings, treasures, paintings, houses all destroyed. Emotionally drained, we walked across the road to the British Military Cemetery, with hundreds of white gravestones the same size, with different emblems and epitaphs - many for unknown servicemen.
After lunch we had a look at the Bayeux Tapestry - 70 metres long, graphically describing the war between Harold and William the Conqueror - and almost 1000 years old.
June 6 Ifs to Bayeux 46 kms
Before heading out of town to retrace the last 5 kms of yesterday's ride, we called in at a market to buy some fruit. Yesterday's downhill had become today's first uphill - the first of many for the day. Skirted The city of Caen and kept to minor roads all the way to Bayeux. Stopped at the small village of Tourville for coffee at a bar, then bought a baguette and some pastries to eat with our bananas for lunch. Rode a few kms to another small town, Cheux, where we stopped by some old spring-fed covered sunken communal baths to have our lunch. A little further on we stopped in the village of Cristot and went into the old church. In the entrance there were two lovely carved tablets dedicated to the British soldiers who fought for the liberation of Cristot during WWII. Very moving.
Arrived in Bayeux about 3.30. Iain had booked a hotel on the phone, but we were concerned that the cost was 90€ per night, no 63€ as per the brochure. Called in to the information centre and asked them to check it out. Turned out that the only room left was a family room. Cancelled that booking and checked in to La Reine Mathilde in the centre of town.
A wonderful coffee, a walk around town, and a meal at the hotel finished off the day for us - or so we thought. Just about to get into bed when Sue missed her red shoulder bag, containing 100€. Dressed and down to the coffee shop - no luck. Back to the hotel dining room to find it locked for the night. To bed for a somewhat disturbed sleep.
Before heading out of town to retrace the last 5 kms of yesterday's ride, we called in at a market to buy some fruit. Yesterday's downhill had become today's first uphill - the first of many for the day. Skirted The city of Caen and kept to minor roads all the way to Bayeux. Stopped at the small village of Tourville for coffee at a bar, then bought a baguette and some pastries to eat with our bananas for lunch. Rode a few kms to another small town, Cheux, where we stopped by some old spring-fed covered sunken communal baths to have our lunch. A little further on we stopped in the village of Cristot and went into the old church. In the entrance there were two lovely carved tablets dedicated to the British soldiers who fought for the liberation of Cristot during WWII. Very moving.
Arrived in Bayeux about 3.30. Iain had booked a hotel on the phone, but we were concerned that the cost was 90€ per night, no 63€ as per the brochure. Called in to the information centre and asked them to check it out. Turned out that the only room left was a family room. Cancelled that booking and checked in to La Reine Mathilde in the centre of town.
A wonderful coffee, a walk around town, and a meal at the hotel finished off the day for us - or so we thought. Just about to get into bed when Sue missed her red shoulder bag, containing 100€. Dressed and down to the coffee shop - no luck. Back to the hotel dining room to find it locked for the night. To bed for a somewhat disturbed sleep.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
June 5 Beuvron-en-Auge to Ifs 51 km
Weather again fine. After our visit to the Boulangerie to buy lunch we rode an easy 7 km down the D49 and D16 and onto the busier D613 for 3 km to he town of Crevecoeur where we visited a restored medieval village which has been established by the Schlumberger family. Buildings included the gatekeeper's lodge, dovecote, Lord's residence, and chapel, the latter dating to the 12thC, the others being 15th and 16th C, as well as the farm and orchard. A sideboard in the Lord's residence was in beautiful condition and was over 400 years old.
Back on the bikes we headed off onto minor roads which were undulating to hilly. Passed many old, large, stone farm houses and buildings, varying in condition from superb to falling down.
All along the way so far the land seems rich and productive. Crops have been even and lush - wheat, barley, corn are the most common. If asked of my impression of France so far, I would say 'green' of a variety of shades. The only splashes of colour are the flower boxes in the villages.
Saw some wind turbines today.
I would have preferred to limit today's ride to around 40 km, but there were no villages with accommodation, so had to continue another 10 undulating kms to the suburb of Ifs, on the outskirts of Caen.
Couldn't find any tourist office, but I had the names of three hotels which we couldn't find. Saw some large signs to the Hotel de Ville, so set out to find this hotel. When we found it, next to the university, I was a bit puzzled when I saw that the hours were 0800 - 1730 - strange for a hotel. Went inside and joined the queue; said to the lady at the desk that I wanted a bed for the night. She looked at me and asked again what I wanted. The penny clicked and she said to me 'You are a funny man'. We were at the town hall! She gave me a map, but no help with directions. Fortunately as we were trying to work out where we were and where we wanted to go, a woman who had been behind me and heard the exchange came out and spoke to us in English, which was a great help. We eventually got the last room, on the third floor of a Formula 1 type hotel on the edge of Ifs, with no lift, so had to carry our bags and bikes up the stairs and fit us and the bikes into our tiny family room. However, the showers were hot, the room clean, the bed comfortable and we had a good meal of steak, washed down with a bottle of cider, before retiring.
Sue is getting stronger on the bike and managing to ride up most hills now, which is very satisfying for her.
Weather again fine. After our visit to the Boulangerie to buy lunch we rode an easy 7 km down the D49 and D16 and onto the busier D613 for 3 km to he town of Crevecoeur where we visited a restored medieval village which has been established by the Schlumberger family. Buildings included the gatekeeper's lodge, dovecote, Lord's residence, and chapel, the latter dating to the 12thC, the others being 15th and 16th C, as well as the farm and orchard. A sideboard in the Lord's residence was in beautiful condition and was over 400 years old.
Back on the bikes we headed off onto minor roads which were undulating to hilly. Passed many old, large, stone farm houses and buildings, varying in condition from superb to falling down.
All along the way so far the land seems rich and productive. Crops have been even and lush - wheat, barley, corn are the most common. If asked of my impression of France so far, I would say 'green' of a variety of shades. The only splashes of colour are the flower boxes in the villages.
Saw some wind turbines today.
I would have preferred to limit today's ride to around 40 km, but there were no villages with accommodation, so had to continue another 10 undulating kms to the suburb of Ifs, on the outskirts of Caen.
Couldn't find any tourist office, but I had the names of three hotels which we couldn't find. Saw some large signs to the Hotel de Ville, so set out to find this hotel. When we found it, next to the university, I was a bit puzzled when I saw that the hours were 0800 - 1730 - strange for a hotel. Went inside and joined the queue; said to the lady at the desk that I wanted a bed for the night. She looked at me and asked again what I wanted. The penny clicked and she said to me 'You are a funny man'. We were at the town hall! She gave me a map, but no help with directions. Fortunately as we were trying to work out where we were and where we wanted to go, a woman who had been behind me and heard the exchange came out and spoke to us in English, which was a great help. We eventually got the last room, on the third floor of a Formula 1 type hotel on the edge of Ifs, with no lift, so had to carry our bags and bikes up the stairs and fit us and the bikes into our tiny family room. However, the showers were hot, the room clean, the bed comfortable and we had a good meal of steak, washed down with a bottle of cider, before retiring.
Sue is getting stronger on the bike and managing to ride up most hills now, which is very satisfying for her.
Monday, July 14, 2008
June 1 St Georges de Vievre to Honfleur 54 km
After breakfast at the hotel we left at 9 am, buying bread and pastries for lunch, we headed out of town along the D137. A little uphill, then an easy ride of 18 km with little traffic to Cormeilles, quite large town with traditional Normandy houses lining the streets. The town was quite busy, with many shops open, despite it being Sunday. After a short break and half an apple each, I asked for directions. My first assistant was pushed aside by a couple who ride in the area. They advised that the route I had chosen would be too busy, and suggested that we take a more scenic route, more hilly with a short 14% climb, but very pretty. We took their advice, and soon found out that it was more steep hills than we had bargained for, including the 14% hill was quite a challenge with the loaded bikes. However road had little traffic, scenery was spectacular, with large farm houses, often behind large stone fences, with house and sheds surrounding an open courtyard. I love these places - they seem well established and organised.
Had lunch on the side of the road and then joined a more major road for the remaining 20 km into Honfleur. After a 3 km climb the road flattened out, and with a tailwind we sailed into town to look for accommodation. Chose a B&B which claimed to be 800 m from the town centre. Turned out to be more like 800 m from the edge of town. We took it as we were too tired to go back to town and start looking again. Booked in for 3 nights to have a break and a good look around this picturesque old port town. I was very pleased that I had been able to book the room on the phone in French. After a shower and a rest we walked the 2 km into town for a meal. Plenty of tourists in town.
June 2 Honfleur
Walked down to the house for a breakfast of cereal, juice, bread, toast,pastries and coffee set up by Mme Bouet in her neat-as-a-pin but sterile house. On arrival she asked us to take off our shoes before entering her house or the unit we stay in.
Carried our laundry with us into town to the laundromat - can last about 3 days between washes. Met 2 girls, American and Canadian, who gave us some washing liquid. Sue didn't notice that it was concentrated. Consequently the machine generated so many suds that they oozed out of the door of the machine. It seemed like a scene out of a movie in which we were going to be forced to evacuate because of the rising sud level.
After lunch we visited St Catherines church, rebuilt of local timber by the local shipbuilders in the !5th C after being destroyed by the British. Opposite the church is the wooden belltower, built above the bell ringer's house. Walked around the narrow streets admiring the 2/3/4 storied houses built of timber frames with mud or brick inlays. Visited the Musee of Eugene Boudin which housed some fine (Sue's assessment) pre-impressionist and some more contemporary art as well as a large collection of Normandy ethnography - headware, dress, dolls, furniture, china, & glassware.
Also called in to the Information centre and got the girls to book us a room at our next stop - Beuvron-en-Auge - which according to Lonely Planet has only a few rooms available.
Home for a rest before walking a short distance to a local hotel for a meal. Some rain today.
June 3 Honfleur
Raining today. On the way to Honfleur I lost a screw from my rear rack. Unfortunately the nearest bike shop was 15 kms away. Had intended to ride, but as it was wet I took the bus. Some consternation when I arrived at the bikeshop to find it shut on Tuesdays. Fortunately found another shop which sold motor scooters and a few bicycles and was able to get the screw needed and head back to Honfleur and met Sue at about 12.30. She had been busy visiting the Maritime Museum and the House of Ethnography which she really enjoyed. The latter was housed in a former prison, two cells with chains used to hold the prisoners on their bare-board beds, the other rooms set up as a Norman house. Wonderful examples of beaurifull pottery, glass and china, ribons, beads, toothbrushes.
Still raining. Found a lovely little cafe which served very good food and then walked back to the B&B in heavy rain, arriving with pants and shoes soaked. A hot bath fixed us up, but it took some time to dry the clothes and shoes.
Bread and banana, a couple of pastries and a glass of water comprised our evening meal, before we collapsed into bed at around 9.30 pm. This travelling business is exhausting!
June 4 Honfleur to Beuvron-en-Auge 46 km
No rain this morning and patches of blue in the sky.
Lonely Planet's 'Cycle France' describes today's ride as a 'gentle cycle along the coast and then through undulating pastoral areas of the Pays d'Auge. Sue disagrees vigorously with this description. In fact their were many 'lumps' along the coast, most of which were steep enough to knock the speed off our loaded bikes. Sue walked a few of the steeper climbs, but had the opportunity to look back over the coastline and enjoy the scenery. Weather quite sunny.
Called in to Trouville sur Mer and visited our first local market. Big market and fantastic produce. Fish, fruit, meat, cheeses, vegetables,cakes, cooked meals. Clothes stalls as well. Bought some cheese and strawberries for lunch. Had a coffee and bought pastries before heading for more hills.
As hunger was indicating the need for a lunch stop we came upon a small lake used for fishing. A charge is levied, seats are spaced around the lake and several old fishermen were arriving. There was a small kiosk and a toilet, which pleased us. (Public toilets are hard to find around France. OK for the men - they just seem to use any convenient wall or tree, regardless of whether it is the middle of town in the middle of the day. Consequently the smell of urine is quite common along the streets - as is 'doggie doos' which make it difficult to look at the towns and watch where you are walking at the same time.) Sat at a table in the shade, watched the fishermen, and enjoyed our beautiful strawberries and cheese lunch.
After lunch headed off for the last kms into the village, including the steep hill Lonely Planet did mention. Eventually arrived in 'one of the loveliest old villages in France'. It lived up to its reputation - well preserved old houses, numerous flower boxes full of colourful geraniums,lobelia and impatience. Our hotel, the Aux trois Demoiselles, was also lovely, with large oak beams and timber floor. The bathroom was slightly incongruous, being a self-contained moulded fibreglass unit including shower, handbasin and toilet.
The town boasted two michelin-starred restaurants but we lacked the attire to try their food. Went to the small creperie where Iain enjoyed a dish of tripe - very rich - while Sue had a herb and chees omelette. After dinner we wandered around the small village, admiring the houses and noting how the stream is literally at the back door of many houses and actually passed under the yard of our hotel. One house had a bridge between the house and their garden.
After breakfast at the hotel we left at 9 am, buying bread and pastries for lunch, we headed out of town along the D137. A little uphill, then an easy ride of 18 km with little traffic to Cormeilles, quite large town with traditional Normandy houses lining the streets. The town was quite busy, with many shops open, despite it being Sunday. After a short break and half an apple each, I asked for directions. My first assistant was pushed aside by a couple who ride in the area. They advised that the route I had chosen would be too busy, and suggested that we take a more scenic route, more hilly with a short 14% climb, but very pretty. We took their advice, and soon found out that it was more steep hills than we had bargained for, including the 14% hill was quite a challenge with the loaded bikes. However road had little traffic, scenery was spectacular, with large farm houses, often behind large stone fences, with house and sheds surrounding an open courtyard. I love these places - they seem well established and organised.
Had lunch on the side of the road and then joined a more major road for the remaining 20 km into Honfleur. After a 3 km climb the road flattened out, and with a tailwind we sailed into town to look for accommodation. Chose a B&B which claimed to be 800 m from the town centre. Turned out to be more like 800 m from the edge of town. We took it as we were too tired to go back to town and start looking again. Booked in for 3 nights to have a break and a good look around this picturesque old port town. I was very pleased that I had been able to book the room on the phone in French. After a shower and a rest we walked the 2 km into town for a meal. Plenty of tourists in town.
June 2 Honfleur
Walked down to the house for a breakfast of cereal, juice, bread, toast,pastries and coffee set up by Mme Bouet in her neat-as-a-pin but sterile house. On arrival she asked us to take off our shoes before entering her house or the unit we stay in.
Carried our laundry with us into town to the laundromat - can last about 3 days between washes. Met 2 girls, American and Canadian, who gave us some washing liquid. Sue didn't notice that it was concentrated. Consequently the machine generated so many suds that they oozed out of the door of the machine. It seemed like a scene out of a movie in which we were going to be forced to evacuate because of the rising sud level.
After lunch we visited St Catherines church, rebuilt of local timber by the local shipbuilders in the !5th C after being destroyed by the British. Opposite the church is the wooden belltower, built above the bell ringer's house. Walked around the narrow streets admiring the 2/3/4 storied houses built of timber frames with mud or brick inlays. Visited the Musee of Eugene Boudin which housed some fine (Sue's assessment) pre-impressionist and some more contemporary art as well as a large collection of Normandy ethnography - headware, dress, dolls, furniture, china, & glassware.
Also called in to the Information centre and got the girls to book us a room at our next stop - Beuvron-en-Auge - which according to Lonely Planet has only a few rooms available.
Home for a rest before walking a short distance to a local hotel for a meal. Some rain today.
June 3 Honfleur
Raining today. On the way to Honfleur I lost a screw from my rear rack. Unfortunately the nearest bike shop was 15 kms away. Had intended to ride, but as it was wet I took the bus. Some consternation when I arrived at the bikeshop to find it shut on Tuesdays. Fortunately found another shop which sold motor scooters and a few bicycles and was able to get the screw needed and head back to Honfleur and met Sue at about 12.30. She had been busy visiting the Maritime Museum and the House of Ethnography which she really enjoyed. The latter was housed in a former prison, two cells with chains used to hold the prisoners on their bare-board beds, the other rooms set up as a Norman house. Wonderful examples of beaurifull pottery, glass and china, ribons, beads, toothbrushes.
Still raining. Found a lovely little cafe which served very good food and then walked back to the B&B in heavy rain, arriving with pants and shoes soaked. A hot bath fixed us up, but it took some time to dry the clothes and shoes.
Bread and banana, a couple of pastries and a glass of water comprised our evening meal, before we collapsed into bed at around 9.30 pm. This travelling business is exhausting!
June 4 Honfleur to Beuvron-en-Auge 46 km
No rain this morning and patches of blue in the sky.
Lonely Planet's 'Cycle France' describes today's ride as a 'gentle cycle along the coast and then through undulating pastoral areas of the Pays d'Auge. Sue disagrees vigorously with this description. In fact their were many 'lumps' along the coast, most of which were steep enough to knock the speed off our loaded bikes. Sue walked a few of the steeper climbs, but had the opportunity to look back over the coastline and enjoy the scenery. Weather quite sunny.
Called in to Trouville sur Mer and visited our first local market. Big market and fantastic produce. Fish, fruit, meat, cheeses, vegetables,cakes, cooked meals. Clothes stalls as well. Bought some cheese and strawberries for lunch. Had a coffee and bought pastries before heading for more hills.
As hunger was indicating the need for a lunch stop we came upon a small lake used for fishing. A charge is levied, seats are spaced around the lake and several old fishermen were arriving. There was a small kiosk and a toilet, which pleased us. (Public toilets are hard to find around France. OK for the men - they just seem to use any convenient wall or tree, regardless of whether it is the middle of town in the middle of the day. Consequently the smell of urine is quite common along the streets - as is 'doggie doos' which make it difficult to look at the towns and watch where you are walking at the same time.) Sat at a table in the shade, watched the fishermen, and enjoyed our beautiful strawberries and cheese lunch.
After lunch headed off for the last kms into the village, including the steep hill Lonely Planet did mention. Eventually arrived in 'one of the loveliest old villages in France'. It lived up to its reputation - well preserved old houses, numerous flower boxes full of colourful geraniums,lobelia and impatience. Our hotel, the Aux trois Demoiselles, was also lovely, with large oak beams and timber floor. The bathroom was slightly incongruous, being a self-contained moulded fibreglass unit including shower, handbasin and toilet.
The town boasted two michelin-starred restaurants but we lacked the attire to try their food. Went to the small creperie where Iain enjoyed a dish of tripe - very rich - while Sue had a herb and chees omelette. After dinner we wandered around the small village, admiring the houses and noting how the stream is literally at the back door of many houses and actually passed under the yard of our hotel. One house had a bridge between the house and their garden.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
May 28 Last day in Paris.
Up early and on to the bike to check out the location of a bikeshop and the route to the railway station for tomorrow. Used the bikeshop's floor pump to put plenty of air into the tyres. Bikes away and onto the metro to see the Champs Elysee and the Arc de Triomphe, but didn't tackle the stairs up the Arc. Huge and impressive. After a shared sandwich it was off to the Pompidou Centre to see some modern art - Sue enjoyed this visit more than I did. Returned home exhausted for an hour or so's rest before heading out to a local Bistro recommended by our landlord. Good food very reasonably priced.
May 29 Paris to Vernon.
Another early start to pack the bikes for a 7 am start for the Gare St Lazarre. Traffic was very light at this time of day so we had an uneventful ride to the station where we packed up the bikes before boarding the train for the hour ride to Vernon. Reassembled the bikes as we could walk directly off the station onto the road. After a lengthy conversation with some locals in a bar, comprising my limited french and many handsignals, we discovered that we were on the wrong side of the railway and would have to go back to the station, down the stairs under the railway lines and up the stairs on the other side. Carrying 45 kgs of bikes and panniers down and up the stairs was not the best way to start the day. However, after this it was simple to find the hotel which we had pre-booked. After off-loading the panniers, and having a coffee which only cost €2.50, we headed off for the 5 km ride to Giverny to see Monet's Gardens.
The weather was fine, the path flat, and Monet's gardens beautiful. The water lily pond was quite large and very pretty with its Japanes-style bridges crossing it at various places. Gardens planned, but not formal - and a blaze of colour. Monet's house was very quaint and well preserved. Being a week day the crowds were manageable.
Rode back to Vernon and after booking into our room, walked around the town admiring the old houses, many of which are around 700 years old. Our hotel was also pretty olde worldy. Had dinner in the dining room - white linen table cloths and napkins, flowers, stuffed animals and birds adorning the walls, exposed beams and paintings all combined to make a very welcoming atmosphere. Food also was very good.
May 30 The ride starts in earnest.
Using the excellent Michelin 1 cm= 2 km maps we headed out of town on a fairly busy road with what seemed to be the obligatory uphill climb to start the day. After about 7 kms, including a couple of kms or more peaceful tractor path, we turned off onto a more minor D road with less traffic and the first of many many small pretty villages. Enjoyed seeing our first traditional half timbered Normandy houses, many built at the edge of rivers, sometimes over the edge of the river. The ride followed the river valley through farmland and villages. Made the mistake today of not stocking up with food, expecting to find shops in the small villages, only to find that many villages were only a collection of houses with no shops. Found the first shops about 5 kms from the end of our days ride. Enjoyed a very welcome roll and drink in park before continuing on to the town of Louviers to look for accommodation. Ended up at a more up-market and expensive hotel than we would have liked, but them's the breaks when you don't book ahead.
45 kms for the day. Planning to ride around 40 kms a day to allow us plenty of time to stop along the way and to arrive in town early enough to find accommodation and look around town.
After tidying up, we went to the Church of Notre Dame, built in the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. Some great stained glass windows. Building braced from one side to the other in several places; old statues strapped to the pillars. Also saw the Penitents Cloister built in the 17th C. Named after the Penitent Brothers who settled in Louviers after abandoning their old monastery at St Barbe. The only cloister in Europe built on water. Closed during the French Rev., was given to the Societe Populaire, became a boys school, then a prison and now a school of music!
After a good night's rest had breakfast at the hotel - too expensive; can't eat enough to make it worthwhile.
May 31 Louviers to St Georges de Vievre 52 kms
On the road just before 9 am with a steady 2 k climb out of town. A bit more traffic today even on our minor D roads. Farmland and pretty villages. Very tidy houses and gardens.
Same problem as yesterday trying to find a boulangerie (bakery) open. In the village of Tourville la Campagne we noticed the Rue de les Australiens, obviously reflecting the role of Australians during WWii. After an energising half banana, we continued on, finally arriving at Le Gros Theil, a pretty little village which had a bakery which was open. No sandwiches, so we had a cold pizza type of bread, followed by a coffee in the garden of an old, quaint hotel. Iain's french is improving and he is generally understood by the friendly locals. The toilet in this little hotel was a doozy. Behind a curtain under a stairway was a door leading down three steps to a toilet set at the height of the top step. You almost had to jump up to get onto the seat, upon which your feet swung some 30-40 cm from the floor. Spotlessly clean.
Back on the road we continued along gently undulating roads to Le Bec Hellouin - the sign claiming it to be one of France's prettiest villages. It was very pretty, with a lot of history. The only discordant note was meeting our first beggar. Heading out of town we encountered a long fairly steep hill, fortunately followed by some fairly flat road to our destination at St Georges de Vievre, where the information centre directed us to a small hotel on the town square. A locked shed for the bikes and a clean bedroom for us on the second floor.
We visited the local church, a large, high ceilinged open planned church with a painted dome ceiling - looked like a Persian pattern. Pews had doors at each end. Many of the stained glass windows depicted gruesome scenes of tortured saints. Around the town were several 'fairy story' like thatched houses.
After an enjoyable meal at the hotel and our first glass of Normandy cider, we were in bed by 9 pm.
Up early and on to the bike to check out the location of a bikeshop and the route to the railway station for tomorrow. Used the bikeshop's floor pump to put plenty of air into the tyres. Bikes away and onto the metro to see the Champs Elysee and the Arc de Triomphe, but didn't tackle the stairs up the Arc. Huge and impressive. After a shared sandwich it was off to the Pompidou Centre to see some modern art - Sue enjoyed this visit more than I did. Returned home exhausted for an hour or so's rest before heading out to a local Bistro recommended by our landlord. Good food very reasonably priced.
May 29 Paris to Vernon.
Another early start to pack the bikes for a 7 am start for the Gare St Lazarre. Traffic was very light at this time of day so we had an uneventful ride to the station where we packed up the bikes before boarding the train for the hour ride to Vernon. Reassembled the bikes as we could walk directly off the station onto the road. After a lengthy conversation with some locals in a bar, comprising my limited french and many handsignals, we discovered that we were on the wrong side of the railway and would have to go back to the station, down the stairs under the railway lines and up the stairs on the other side. Carrying 45 kgs of bikes and panniers down and up the stairs was not the best way to start the day. However, after this it was simple to find the hotel which we had pre-booked. After off-loading the panniers, and having a coffee which only cost €2.50, we headed off for the 5 km ride to Giverny to see Monet's Gardens.
The weather was fine, the path flat, and Monet's gardens beautiful. The water lily pond was quite large and very pretty with its Japanes-style bridges crossing it at various places. Gardens planned, but not formal - and a blaze of colour. Monet's house was very quaint and well preserved. Being a week day the crowds were manageable.
Rode back to Vernon and after booking into our room, walked around the town admiring the old houses, many of which are around 700 years old. Our hotel was also pretty olde worldy. Had dinner in the dining room - white linen table cloths and napkins, flowers, stuffed animals and birds adorning the walls, exposed beams and paintings all combined to make a very welcoming atmosphere. Food also was very good.
May 30 The ride starts in earnest.
Using the excellent Michelin 1 cm= 2 km maps we headed out of town on a fairly busy road with what seemed to be the obligatory uphill climb to start the day. After about 7 kms, including a couple of kms or more peaceful tractor path, we turned off onto a more minor D road with less traffic and the first of many many small pretty villages. Enjoyed seeing our first traditional half timbered Normandy houses, many built at the edge of rivers, sometimes over the edge of the river. The ride followed the river valley through farmland and villages. Made the mistake today of not stocking up with food, expecting to find shops in the small villages, only to find that many villages were only a collection of houses with no shops. Found the first shops about 5 kms from the end of our days ride. Enjoyed a very welcome roll and drink in park before continuing on to the town of Louviers to look for accommodation. Ended up at a more up-market and expensive hotel than we would have liked, but them's the breaks when you don't book ahead.
45 kms for the day. Planning to ride around 40 kms a day to allow us plenty of time to stop along the way and to arrive in town early enough to find accommodation and look around town.
After tidying up, we went to the Church of Notre Dame, built in the 13th, 14th and 15th centuries. Some great stained glass windows. Building braced from one side to the other in several places; old statues strapped to the pillars. Also saw the Penitents Cloister built in the 17th C. Named after the Penitent Brothers who settled in Louviers after abandoning their old monastery at St Barbe. The only cloister in Europe built on water. Closed during the French Rev., was given to the Societe Populaire, became a boys school, then a prison and now a school of music!
After a good night's rest had breakfast at the hotel - too expensive; can't eat enough to make it worthwhile.
May 31 Louviers to St Georges de Vievre 52 kms
On the road just before 9 am with a steady 2 k climb out of town. A bit more traffic today even on our minor D roads. Farmland and pretty villages. Very tidy houses and gardens.
Same problem as yesterday trying to find a boulangerie (bakery) open. In the village of Tourville la Campagne we noticed the Rue de les Australiens, obviously reflecting the role of Australians during WWii. After an energising half banana, we continued on, finally arriving at Le Gros Theil, a pretty little village which had a bakery which was open. No sandwiches, so we had a cold pizza type of bread, followed by a coffee in the garden of an old, quaint hotel. Iain's french is improving and he is generally understood by the friendly locals. The toilet in this little hotel was a doozy. Behind a curtain under a stairway was a door leading down three steps to a toilet set at the height of the top step. You almost had to jump up to get onto the seat, upon which your feet swung some 30-40 cm from the floor. Spotlessly clean.
Back on the road we continued along gently undulating roads to Le Bec Hellouin - the sign claiming it to be one of France's prettiest villages. It was very pretty, with a lot of history. The only discordant note was meeting our first beggar. Heading out of town we encountered a long fairly steep hill, fortunately followed by some fairly flat road to our destination at St Georges de Vievre, where the information centre directed us to a small hotel on the town square. A locked shed for the bikes and a clean bedroom for us on the second floor.
We visited the local church, a large, high ceilinged open planned church with a painted dome ceiling - looked like a Persian pattern. Pews had doors at each end. Many of the stained glass windows depicted gruesome scenes of tortured saints. Around the town were several 'fairy story' like thatched houses.
After an enjoyable meal at the hotel and our first glass of Normandy cider, we were in bed by 9 pm.
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